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Old 01-05-2011, 07:38 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Tuneko versions will be made from plexiglas and they are meant to be used on aluminium wheels. Thats all I can say at this point, hopefully before next summer I have already something to offer.

What goes for asking offers from companies they dont usually aswer even to other companies if they see that they dont have any products yet...

Pinoslaw did you want 16" capsels and what is the curvature you want? I need more details if you want those to be ready before next summer. I can do the tool with same method as described here and use my loyal subcontractor...

Plexiglas versions can be done quite easily but the attachement you need to thinh at this phase on your own.

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Old 01-05-2011, 07:57 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Heh. Figures, I bet what you have in mind is exactly what I recently came up for an idea for.

Oh well, there goes that invention!
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:28 AM   #33 (permalink)
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On connection methods - I just got the Walmart 16" pizza pans (which fit perfectly on the three sets of 15" rims I have in our garage, if you ignore the wheel weights).

My first attempt was to buy some tall acorn nuts (I have a 4x100 bolt pattern) and stick 10-32 nuts inside them, JBwelded in. That was messy (I got some JBweld on the acorn threads) and without roughing up the inside of the acorn, the little nuts broke free pretty easily. Next I tried MIG welding the little nuts on top of the acorns. That was pretty fiddly, as I didn't have any fine wire handy, and the tops of the acorns are pretty easy to burn through. I didn't get good welds on all of them and lost one pizza pan on my maiden voyage, but the other three did 100 miles without any problem.

If my only set were steelies, I would have probably just tapped holes directly in that. However, I have a winter and summer set, and the winter set is a nice alloy Miata wheel. It does have small hubcaps that are a little more than 100mm, so I think I can take those off and tap under them, so they're still presentable if I ever sell them. I'm also assuming the zip-tie method works best on steelies where you've got a lot of small holes at a fixed diameter - the 5-spoke alloy rims seem like they wouldn't keep the cap from moving well if ziptied.
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Old 01-05-2011, 09:23 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by interestingstuff View Post
Heh. Figures, I bet what you have in mind is exactly what I recently came up for an idea for.

Oh well, there goes that invention!
You just need to release the solution before I do and it is yours.

My plan is make it plug and play and it needs to be reversible and fit most of the rim types etc... Sounds like a challenge .
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:08 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vekke View Post
You just need to release the solution before I do and it is yours.

My plan is make it plug and play and it needs to be reversible and fit most of the rim types etc... Sounds like a challenge .

Velcro .
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Old 01-05-2011, 06:58 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Velcro .
Velcro will not hold up to the rigors of all the bumps and shakes as the car travels down the road...as well as the weather elements.
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Old 01-07-2011, 02:42 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Velcro will not hold up to the rigors of all the bumps and shakes as the car travels down the road...as well as the weather elements.

I betcha it will: Fit the moonie disk such that its outer edge is snugly just inside the lip of the wheel rim which supports it, and use a strip of velcro around the entire perimeter of the moonie. A very light weight moonie such as the thermoformed idea noted above would impose very little load on the velcro, and be further seated inside the lip.
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Old 01-07-2011, 02:58 AM   #38 (permalink)
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If you put velcro all over the disc it would not look anymore cool which is one of the most importat factors in using clear hubcaps .

Also the hubcaps needs to hold on at top speed whatever the car has. In europe the topspeed is restricstred on most cars to 250 km/h. If the hubcap is not perfectly centerer velcro is little bit loose on side Z-axis and at high speeds that does not end well.

I will do a quick test to at least 180 km/h and see what the results are. If someone wants to go even faster that ok with me but on spec sheet it is told you to what speeds hubcaps will last...
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:14 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vekke View Post
If you put velcro all over the disc it would not look anymore cool which is one of the most importat factors in using clear hubcaps .

Also the hubcaps needs to hold on at top speed whatever the car has. In europe the topspeed is restricstred on most cars to 250 km/h. If the hubcap is not perfectly centerer velcro is little bit loose on side Z-axis and at high speeds that does not end well.

I will do a quick test to at least 180 km/h and see what the results are. If someone wants to go even faster that ok with me but on spec sheet it is told you to what speeds hubcaps will last...

The velcro would not be seen because it would be sandwiched between the moonie disk and the wheel lip. The wheel lip will be what holds the moonie in place, in a snug fit, keeping the moonie centered. The velcro just keeps the moonie from coming out off the wheel. A very light weight moonie would not be much load, unlike one made of heavy metal.
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Old 01-09-2011, 11:55 AM   #40 (permalink)
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...if the Velcro™ material is used 100% around the wheel-lip circumference, there certainly 'should' be enough "hold" to retain a light-weight plastic moonie.


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