Project AeroMetro thoroughly underway now.

[hypermiler01]

In CA and AZ, the limit is 75 and everyone goes 80+.

The epoxy will be around $400 to $500 vs. about $200 for polyester. Everything I have read says the epoxy is tougher, more waterproof, more resistant to cracking, and better in a collision. The extra cost there is offset by the foam being MUCH cheaper than urethane.

There is no rollcage, but I have a rear strut brace and 3-point Sparco belt, and I am putting in heavy side door beams for protection and chassis stiffening. The passenger side is also hinged as a luggage compartment and both sides of the top can be removed for a two seat convertible with no windshield.

The canopy is an acrylic aircraft canopy.

[Big Dave]

I'm with the other guys. You have a lot of length behind the rear wheel. Even with an eleven degree taper, you could reduce the wake area by a lot, both in plan and in elevation.

[Big Dave]

I'm with the other guys. You have a lot of length behind the rear wheel. Even with an eleven degree taper, you could reduce the wake area by a lot, both in plan and in elevation.

I do like the idea of a designed single seater for a commuter car.

[Frank Lee]

Me too. I think the VW 1L lays out a pretty decent template for such a thing.

[Bicycle Bob]

There is considerable overlap between good vinylester and cheap epoxy. If you really want tough, consider System Three Phase II (no financial interest here, etc. ) but before you are done sanding, I'm sure you'll consider finishing off with an easier-sanding substance. If you want good properties, seriously consider vacuum-bagging. It would help get the labour down with epoxy. WEST also has GLR resin to save layup labour, and it can be heat-cured in the sun for improved properties. . . .

For a big boost in crash safety, add layers of cloth and goo to your foam blanks, and finish the inside as well. And really taper out the material from the hard points.

I'd definitely make it as small and tapered as possible, as suggested above.

[Bicycle Bob]

P.S. - Aircraft use vinylester for the flame resistance.

And some Kevlar cloth on the inside is marvellous for crash resistance. Just don't try sanding it, at all.

[hypermiler01]

There is a lot of taper in the top view, but as I already mentioned, this will be used at fast highway speeds, and other cars have had terrible stability problems with too much vertical taper.

I moved the battery to the rear axle, but I can still pick the rear wheels off the ground with my bare hands.

The tail is almost two feet narrower than the rear fenders.

For sanding, I will be coating it with that glass micro-bubble stuff.

[theycallmeebryan]

can you post a picture of what you are currently working with so we have a better idea?

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by hypermiler01

The wheels are 14x5.5" Mazda RX7 alloys, very light, and I am going to try Nokian H tires.

I know the Mazda bolt pattern of that vintage is one of the few that'll fit the Suzukiclones. I've been keeping an eye out for a set of 13 inch "phone dial" alloys from a 323. No luck yet. (Also don't know what they weigh relative to my stock steelies.)

Nokian H - that the same thing Chang uses on his 118 mpg CRX? Modified Honda CRX HF Scores 118 MPG in Fuel Economy Run | Hypermiling, Fuel Economy, and EcoModding News - EcoModder.com

Originally Posted by RobertSmalls

The Jaray body looks like it comes pretty close to that. MetroMPG, any idea what the Cd of that is?

Sorry, nope.

[RobertSmalls]

I can't come up with a figure, either, but I did find the 1921 Rumpler Teardrop-Car's 0.28 Cd in "World History of the Automobile", which might be a book worth reading.

What a beautiful car. Its rear fenders illustrate how to add illuminated width to your streamlined car without adding much drag.

14x5.5"? You can fit the 12lb LRR Insight tires on there.