Project Extended Pop-Top Aerodynamic Camper Shell ('99 Tacoma)

[aktacoma]

so how did you keep the shape did you fiberglass the outside before you cut out the supports? also i did the aero template with my truck but the ratio doesnt match up as far as the height compared to the truck and where the angles change.. so i dont now how to make it so i can figure out the different heights for the supports

[NeilBlanchard]

Question for you: what weight is the fiberglass fabric you're using? 10oz? 6oz?

[a8ksh4]

Yah, the outside was fiberglassed before removing most of the supports.

Here's the revised process I think I'd follow, now, to get the best results (with or without cad drawings to work out dimensions of stuff).

1 - Attach a wood strip to the top of the cab and bend it down to the height at teh end of the tailgate recommended by the aero template. Take a photo to compare against the template, and make any adjustments needed. Record the height of the wood strip above the bed at regular intervals or wherever you want to put supports/x-sections. Maybe subtract 1/4" from the height to allow for height from layers of fiberglass and any gasket material that's used where it mates w/ the bed.
2 - Start construction by building the base of the shell that mates up with the bed. Use wood or whatever to make the lip that sits inside and add supports to keep it square and give you something to secure your supports/x-sections to during construction.
3 - Trace the shape of the cab and use it as a template to draw/cut each support at the height that was measured from the wood strip. Because the supports keep getting shorter, the template has to be moved side to side to make it as wide as the bed. Just use it to make consistent curves all the way back.
4 - Attach the supports to the base that you built and add bracing to them to keep them in position.
5 - Get creative and attach the foam to the sides and top. If you have a good table saw, it might be easy for you to cut kerfs in the foamboard to wrap around the corners, or you can do like I did and build up each corner and then sand down into multiple layers of foam to get the correct curve.
6 - Embed any wood supports where you want to mount external stuff - hinges, etc.
7 - Clean everything up and fiberglass the outside, front, and back. Then Gut the whole thing, embed any interior wood supports, and fiberglass the inside. You might choose to only remove supports/x-sections from the inside as you work your way up the length of the shell laying fiberglass a strip at a time.
8 - Go back and cut window openings. Use a razor blade to trim the fiberglass back 3/4 inch from the window opening on the outside to give room to sand a shelf to set the lexan into. Cut back a bit further on the inside to give room to round the transition to the window opening.

[aktacoma]

Thank you so much that helps a ton I read through the whole thread but really am only interested in how you did it and I forgot some details so that is great!!

[a8ksh4]

Neil, I think that what I'm using is a 8.8oz twill. I also got some 4" and 12" wide stuff that's 9.7oz.

[aktacoma]

so i was looking for what thickness of foam you used i know you mentioned 1/2" in the start is that what you ended up going with?

[a8ksh4]

The stuff I used was either 1" or 1.25".

[a8ksh4]

Where'd you get your solar cells, aktacoma? Do you have a charge controller picked out to use with them?

I think that many of the home/rv setups have the cells sealed under a thin layer of glass.

If we lay the cells over something rigid that keeps them from flexing and we are able to avoid point impacts to them... hmmm... There must be a good way.

[aktacoma]

When I talked to the guy at ABS Alaskan you can google them they also have a store in WA
I asked him about solar cells and he said the efficiency of a solar cell compared to a solar panel is 8% for the cells and 17% for the panels so what I will do is just recess a solar panel not solar cells.. It is going to be a little spendy but I will also have a 30 amp trickle charger to charge my deep cycle so if I need to I can plug it in where I'm staying or if its crumby I can stay at a RV park the whole setup will run me 1000-1500 dollars but I'm setting mine up as an economical 1 person or couple cross country road trip vehicle I will also have shelves along the inside a heater and a small sink so I can prep food that I can cook via the electric one burner stove

The reason I'm really interested in ecomodding is because I will save a ton of money if I can achieve 30-35 mpg compared to 20..

[NoD~]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but: Solar panels are made of solar cells. I don't understand how it would be possible that they would only be efficient in a manufacturer-assembled unit.

The ones I bought were 3 x 6 cells on eBay from an American seller, Everbright Solar. I believe I paid $58 shipped for 60 cells, plus tabbing wire, bus wire, diodes, and flux pen. The cells were B-grade, so they were lightly chipped, cracked, or discolored. I put 36 in series to create an 18v array. If what they claim is true, this should output ~63 watts. I don't know how that would compare to a "12v" panel of similar size, though.

One major downside to DIY is it is a lot of time/effort. Soldering each one of those isn't an easy task. Plus, you have to encapsulate/enclose them to keep moisture away.