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Old 03-18-2008, 03:03 AM   #21 (permalink)
Red
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Spent most of the morning tearing apart my dad's Camry. The rod bearings on #1 & #6 have gone to hell and they have opened up the other 4. That car is a royal pain in the neck to work on.

More or less finished replacing the broken quarter panel window today. Cutting out the old sealant was work to say the least. I will be posting up a write up for it sometime tomorrow, but if you can fork for it, pay someone to do it.

Drained the tranny as well. Fluid was black, no metal specs of any kind. Refilled with Redline MTL 1.6ish quarts.

Tomorrow I am going to clean out the throttle body, and glue in the window. Need to call around and get some new tires as well.


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Old 03-18-2008, 09:47 AM   #22 (permalink)
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This is one of my favourite threads. Enjoying the progress/updates...
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Old 03-18-2008, 09:13 PM   #23 (permalink)
Red
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Replacing a quarter window

Usually stuff.
I am by no means a body man or a glass expert. Everything done here is based off my own experience of the process using what I had on hand. As always seek the help of a professional if needed. Some of the techniques and chemicals used are hazardous to your health and you could kill yourself. Always be careful and use the proper safety equipment. I am not responsible for anything you do by following this.

That aside, replacing your quarter panel window on an Insight isn't a big deal. It can be easily done in your driveway using common hand tools. The most difficult part is cutting out the old glue and pumping in the new. The rest is cake.

Heres what you need. All prices listed are what I paid for at the time.

1x Quarter Panel Window (PN# 73561-S3Y-003) $53.63, Majestic
1x Quarter Panel Garnish (PN# 738690-S3Y-003) $6.82, Majestic
2x Quarter Panel Window Clip (PN# 91502-S3Y-003) $5.62, Majestic
1x Quarter Panel Window Dam (PN# 73526-S3Y-000) $11.95, Majestic
1x Sharp strong knife
1x 3M Window Weld $14.99, Autozone
1x Big suction cup. I used the one from my GPS and it did fine
1x Caulking Gun

Grand total spent: $93.01

Handy to have
Heat Gun, mine was 300watts
Carpet Cutter

Far as I know, Rommie found her way into the junk yard by the means of a thief recovered. Her driver sides quarter window was smashed in to gain access I think.

So most of the glass had already been removed for me. What was left was the glass still glued to the frame. I'll be starting from here.

Heres what you want to do. Use your knife to knock out enough glass to get to the window sealant. In the above pic, you can see where I started the process in the top left corner. Once you have an area cleared you want to try to get your knife under the sealant to start the removal process. Your objective is to cut as much of the old sealant off as possible. The closer you can get your knife to the frame the better off you'll be in the long run. Don't go the easy path and do a shallow cut, you'll regret it later on.

There is a black plastic trim piece located right by the door jam. It attaches to the window via some clips. Just break it off by any means possible. You will be replacing it anyway.

Once you get your knife under the sealant here is where the fun starts. You now need to saw off the old sealant. It is a very slow and tedious process. Start by the door first since that area is fairly easy to work with and you'll see some obvious progress. Once you get to the curve in the rear is where you'll start hating life. But press on and you'll eventually get it all off. Do this on a warm day, the old sealant loosens up a bit. Else use the heat gun to warm up your knife some to help slice through. The carpet knife is handy on the straight parts as you can put a lot of force on it.

As you are cutting through the sealant by the door jam, you'll come across two clips that hold the window to the frame. You will need to remove them. It is very difficult to save them as they become brittle over time.

After about 2 hrs of grunting and swearing your frame should look something like this.

You don't need to remove all the sealant just about 80-90% of it. The new sealant can adhere to the old. Be sure to clean up and paint over any damage you may have done. I covered mine with some clear coat I had lying around. Most just use black primer. You just want to prevent any corrosion from occurring.

At this point the major work has been completed. Now on to the easier stuff. Your new window should look something like this

You'll want to take some rubbing alcohol or something and clean the painted edges. If you have it, prep the surface with a glass primer. I didn't and it doesn't seem to have made a difference.

Take your new plastic garnish and clip it on to the window. It really goes only one way and on one said so its hard to mess up.

Align the top edge with the top of the glass as shown below


Take your rubber dam and start at the top of the window and work your way around. The dam has its own adhesive strip on it. Simply pull off the strip and stick it to the edge of the glass. Its a strong glue and doesn't really like to be replaced, so work slowly and carefully, making sure its right the first time. You should position the dam like so. The stepped area should be pointing towards the side of the glass that will face the inside of the car


Bottom meeting the garnish

End result


There are two rectangular slots on the plastic garnish piece. Into those two slots go the retention clips. They are blue, and come with very very sticky double sided tape. Do your best to center them inside their boxes.



Take your sealant

and squeeze out nice fat beat on top of the old sealant. Just follow the path of the original. You want a bead somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2". Bigger won't hurt here. It'll just make a mess. I used a 1/4" and it seems fine so far. This stuff is thick, gooey and doesn't want to come out of the tube, even when warm. Your arms will get a work out pumping it out. Once you get a bead all around, pop your new window in. Make sure the clips engage and apply even pressure all around. The adhesive should be able to hold the window on its own. If anything feels squishy, it'll harden up once the adhesive drys.

Assuming all goes well you should now have the following

Not bad

Now just leave it alone for a day or two, make sure your windows are cracked so there is no pressure build up. Don't slam anything until it sets completely.
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Old 03-18-2008, 09:17 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Restored weatherproofing & aerodynamics: 1
ULEV badges: -1
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Old 03-18-2008, 09:53 PM   #25 (permalink)
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The Civic - '00 Civic DX
90 day: 37.05 mpg (US)
These detailed posts are great. Keep it up!
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Old 03-18-2008, 10:59 PM   #26 (permalink)
Red
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Restored weatherproofing & aerodynamics: 1
ULEV badges: -1
I know, but I couldn't justify 5 bucks for a sticker. Especially since I could make my own. Been toying with the idea of making a kind of "Type R" sticker for the ecomodder....
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Old 03-19-2008, 04:12 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I LOVE this thread... keep up the good work
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Old 03-19-2008, 04:19 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Good details on replacing the window. Nice thread too BTW.
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Old 03-19-2008, 06:07 PM   #29 (permalink)
Red
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Thanks all

24hr update on the window. The squishiness is all gone, feels rock solid now.

Stock the Insight is outfitted with 165/65/14 Bridgestone RE92s. The ultimate LRR tire for the Insight. Tire Rack finally has them back in stock so it looks like I'll be picking up a set soon
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Old 03-19-2008, 11:51 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Futur - '02 Insight

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I would never have considered restoring an Insight as a beater since the aluminum bodywork and hybrid systems could be really expensive to repair/replace. Hats off to you!
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Old 03-22-2008, 12:09 AM   #31 (permalink)
Red
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I use the term "beater" to merely describe the condition of it. The Insight is a very technologically advanced piece of hardware. So far I'm not too far into the hole as it were. I had initially budgeted $4000 to be spent towards some kind of gas saver. So far I have spent around $2600 on it, including the purchase price. Besides the battery pack, the only big thing I think I might have to end up replacing is the clutch. Since I discovered today that something in the clutch hydraulics has sprung a leak, the clutch might be fine. I'm hoping that I'll get a chance to pull the slave this weekend and check it out.

In my head here is what I have left to do
Install the new LAF once I get it
Figure out what is making the gurgling sound when I start it up (system needs to be burped I think)
See if the brake pads need to be replaced
Find out what is leaking in the clutch hydraulics
Replace the serpentine belt

So I think the end could be near....
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Old 03-23-2008, 04:16 PM   #32 (permalink)
Red
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Got the new LAF sensor installed today. Runs much much better and it can almost idle with the AC on! Progress.......
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Old 03-23-2008, 05:49 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Re: burping the coolant system... My '89 Accord gurgled from day 1. I think I had it for 5 years. Never was able to completely get rid of it.

Maybe it's a Honda thing.
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Old 03-24-2008, 11:22 AM   #34 (permalink)
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So, stupid question time...

Why exactly was this car in the junkyard? Previous owner scared off by too many "little" things gone bad and perhaps a giant repair estimate from a dealership?

I know a guy who picked up a '94 (I think) Miata in running condition for $500 from a junkyard last year. It was junked because it wouldn't pass emissions testing. The new owner ran it home on the highway at high speed (3 hrs), planning to repair/rebuild the engine himself. He had it e-tested again when he got home and to his utter surprise, it passed. (Lending credence to the "blowing the carbon out" theory?)
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Old 03-24-2008, 02:57 PM   #35 (permalink)
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The PO probably tested the Miata cold. Ripping through the gears does a good job of lighting off the cat, but since most of the smog places I've been to won't make sure it's warm before they test it, people who try to test colder/older cars can fail, although I have seen a couple exceptions to this.
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Old 03-24-2008, 08:07 PM   #36 (permalink)
Red
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No clue. According to the guy who was working the yard, most of the Hondas they get come from police recoveries. Considering the busted window, and the body damage it has, its possible someone tried to take it for a joy ride and it was recovered. Then the PO probably did get a repair bill from Honda as to what id get being, a new LAF, battery pack replacement, clutch, body work etc and it was worth getting the car back. So it was sold to the yard.
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Old 04-01-2008, 01:17 PM   #37 (permalink)
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So This was one of my favorite threads and it has fallen of lately... any new news?? hows the insight treating you???
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:43 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Burping cooling system:
Depends on car, but the worst ever is the MR2. Front Rad, Rear engine.

On My Accord (long gone) (and on supras) I put the front end up as high as I can get it (ramps + jacks on my slightly sloped driveway) then I use my special Cooling system burping tool, which is a radiator cap with the pressure portion cut out/ removed. Fill it up, Start it/ warm it up, keep the overflow full, turn it off, keep overflow full, replace cap . end of story (excluding BHG's).
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Old 04-01-2008, 08:15 PM   #39 (permalink)
Red
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Its fine, I've just been busy. Haven't had a chance to do anything else to it. I did burp bit. Sat it on some ramps and opened up its little burp bolt. The only thing I have done is bought stuff for it. I have new spark plugs and I've ordered a new clutch slave/master since the current one has gone to hell.

The last couple of weekends have been spent either studying or trying to fix my dad's Camry. He somehow managed to blow up a spark plug and then trashed the rod bearings. So these past two weekends have been spent pulling that engine out.
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Old 04-01-2008, 09:46 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Whoop's Wheels - '89 Civic Wagovan
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Well, your progress and photos on the Insight were interesting. Sorry to hear about the engine on the Camry, but it's sure great you can do the work of pulling it.
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