Solar panel setup questions.

[saturndude]

One lead acid deep cell from Walmart has 100ah at 12v for less than $100

[M_a_t_t]

I looked at those and someone pointed out they weren't SLA (unless I just missed it) I don't want to put it under the van because of driving through water. And I usually try to make my installs look as nice as possible, for example.
The smaller cells will allow for a cleaner looking install, also.

[saturndude]

That's correct, they aren't sla, but they can get wet no problem at all.

[M_a_t_t]

First I want to apologize to Saturndude. I hate it when I tell people my idea(s) and they shoot it down right away, especially without any reasons. That's exactly what I did to you.
I already bought the lifeP04 batteries, BMS, and everything which included $50 shipping I would of had to pay that shipping back making my return only around $70. I didn't feel like taking that loss.

I read the electrical load made by MetroMPG with his numbers for his firefly and recently someone posted their measurements on a 2005 Astro:


I figured my numbers would be higher but thats about double just idling. I haven't checked my van for accuracy, but should be close. Just using the LifePo4 batteries I could only idle for about 45 minutes. I definitely have reconsidered the deep cycle battery. If these LifePo4 batteries don't work I have a few ideas about what to use them for.


On another note:
I built the battery box and got the BMS soldered and almost ready, Solar panels are ready for mounting on the roof.
I have to mount the charge controller, and run the wiring for it. I'm using 10 AWG wire, the same I used for my e-fan. Max amps output listed is ~5 amps, 24V (sorry couldn't find actual value in manual they're 2 12V panels so I think its around 36V).

I'm looking for alternative ideas on my wiring plan for going through the roof mostly.
I got a second, 3rd brake light/middle light from the junkyard and got the chance to check it out without ruining watertightness on my van. Also it lets me cut it up if needed.




Currently I plan on taking out one of the screws that holds it on and just running the wire (I only need one for the positive, The manual for the panels says that there was no difference between a grounded and ungrounded panel) through it. The hole is actually a double D shaped hole so the wire fits fairly tightly inbetween the flat sides but leaves a small gap between the rounded sides. I was going to fill this in with some sort of caulking, any suggestions as to what kind? Otherwise I have seam sealer and some left from when we remodeled the bathroom, I forget what exactly the second one was. The light has a sort of adhesive on it also that holds it on and seals the holes from water, would it be enough to keep water out without having the screw on it?
After that just running it to the side of the van where I'll have the controller and batteries. Do you think it could cause any problems having the controller and batteries within about 5-10 inches of each other? I was planning on taking one of the side panels off and making a lexan replacement with some computer fans on it for better airflow.
Thanks, Matt

[freebeard]

Currently I plan on taking out one of the screws that holds it on and just running the wire (I only need one for the positive, The manual for the panels says that there was no difference between a grounded and ungrounded panel) through it. The hole is actually a double D shaped hole so the wire fits fairly tightly inbetween the flat sides but leaves a small gap between the rounded sides. I was going to fill this in with some sort of caulking, any suggestions as to what kind?

I may not understand, but it does sound like you are taking a screw out of one end of the rectangular housing and running the wire through the face of the lens. Why would you not run the wire through a slot you create between the lens and housing. Then you can have two screws to hold the housing water-tight against the body.

I think it's called gorilla snot.

[saturndude]

No worries, sounds like your having fun with the experiment!
No problems having the components near each other!
Any old caulking should seal that hole for you.
Be sure to fuse the battery right at the battery terminal and that will protect you pretty well.

That pack would be great for an ebike if you decide use it else where

[M_a_t_t]

Freebeard: I was planning on just running the wire through the screw hole with the adhesive hopefully being enough to keep water tight.

OR, I could get a bolt that fits and attempt to drill a hole straight through it thats a tight fit for the wire. Or maybe get a hollow metal rod and die-it? (verb for using a die to put threads on, what is that?)

Upon further investigation the ends pop off:



If I did drill through the middle lens area then I can feed the wire through the mangled looking hole and out in between the two tabs on the end piece, which is exactly how it's done on the other side with the power wires for the brake lights. But if I dont get the hole into the lens sealed and it gets water in it will the LEDs burn out or would they be fine?

PS: I was just gonna get 2 circuit breakers for the fuses, one for panels and one for batteries. Do I need to get breakers specific for this or can I get a house one from lowes or similar?

[saturndude]

You should get 12v breakers. Amazon or car stereo or trailer store.
You don't need one on the panels, not enough power to cause any harm.

Just stick the wire through the hole and caulk it. If there's only one screw left holding on the lens, be sure to use thread locker