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Old 07-14-2015, 11:02 AM   #41 (permalink)
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For better fuel economy, you need a tire that changes pressure the least during temperature changes. When you fill your tire up cold compared to after driving, the psi changes.

You will need a gas that conducts heat the least. A gas that is dense so it will leak out of the tire the least over time. A nobel gas that doesn't react to the remaining air in the tire and doesn't react to the chemicals in the tire.

Since it is probably not a good idea to fill your tires with Radon, the next best choice would be to fill your tires with XENON.

Thermal Conductivity of gases comparison:
Helium___0.142 (W/(mĚK)
Neon____0.046 (W/(mĚK)
Nitrogen__0.024 (W/(mĚK)
Argon ___0.016 (W/(mĚK)
Krypton__0.0088 (W/(mĚK)
Xenon____0.0051 (W/(mĚK)
Radon____0.0033 (W/(mĚK)

Density of gases comparison:
Helium____0.1786 g/L
Neon_____0.9002 g/L
Nitrogen__1.251 g/L
Argon____1.7818 g/L
Krypton___3.708 g/L
Xenon____5.851 g/L
Radon____9.97 g/L

So please fill your tires with xenon and tell me how it goes.


But if you want your gas to be very dense, denser than Xenon so it doesn't leak out and you want to do the opposite by conducting heat more rapidly than Helium, why don't you try Sulfur hexafluoride.
Thermal Conductivity of 0.0121 (W/(mĚK) and density of 6.17 g/L

Fill one tire on your vehicle with xenon. Fill a second tire on you vehicle with sulfur hexafluoride. Drive for a while. Measure the tire pressures after driving. Compare the difference.


Last edited by mememe; 07-14-2015 at 11:19 AM..
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Old 07-14-2015, 05:12 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Problem with Xe is its something like 20 times the price of helium, which is already rather expensive.
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Old 07-14-2015, 09:39 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mememe View Post
For better fuel economy, you need a tire that changes pressure the least during temperature changes. (run with a TPMS, run a CTIS and there won't be any worries) When you fill your tire up cold compared to after driving, the psi changes. (what if you fill up AFTER driving? will there be much change?)

You will need a gas that conducts heat the least. A gas that is dense so it will leak out of the tire the least over time. (why use gas? use a dense liquid, like water.) A nobel gas that doesn't react to the remaining air in the tire and doesn't react to the chemicals in the tire.

Since it is probably not a good idea to fill your tires with Radon, the next best choice would be to fill your tires with XENON.

Thermal Conductivity of gases comparison:
Helium___0.142 (W/(mĚK)
Neon____0.046 (W/(mĚK)
Nitrogen__0.024 (W/(mĚK)
Argon ___0.016 (W/(mĚK)
Krypton__0.0088 (W/(mĚK)
Xenon____0.0051 (W/(mĚK)
Radon____0.0033 (W/(mĚK)

Density of gases comparison:
Helium____0.1786 g/L
Neon_____0.9002 g/L
Nitrogen__1.251 g/L
Argon____1.7818 g/L
Krypton___3.708 g/L
Xenon____5.851 g/L
Radon____9.97 g/L

So please fill your tires with xenon and tell me how it goes. (i would like YOU to fill yours first. let us know how much it cost and then how much it saved in fuel. compare the two and state how logical it was.)


But if you want your gas to be very dense, denser than Xenon so it doesn't leak out and you want to do the opposite by conducting heat more rapidly than Helium, why don't you try Sulfur hexafluoride.
Thermal Conductivity of 0.0121 (W/(mĚK) and density of 6.17 g/L

Fill one tire on your vehicle with xenon. Fill a second tire on you vehicle with sulfur hexafluoride. Drive for a while. Measure the tire pressures after driving. Compare the difference.(still don't see the logic. pressures will change, just by checking pressures.)
nice 1st post.
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....As of lately, I have started taking the bus to the other campus, because there are more people in space than there are parking spots over there.....
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Old 12-18-2015, 03:53 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
Went 100 miles with my fancy tire air in my 8x18 foot deck over trailer with a car on it, in the texas heat, 100 miles each way.
Nothing happened, they just did their job.
Until now this trailer had just been driven around town and to the next town over in cooler weather.
One of the tires had a slow leak, leaked down to 20psi and refilled with air. I am just going to keep refilling the slow leaker with air. The others will be topped off with, CO2 one time then 404a the next, as needed.

I have had the smaller tires on the 4x8 trailer on there now for months and done lots of small tows. They are still fine.
This is the 26 foot over all (18' long by 101'' wide actual deck space) deck over trailer I build out of scrap yard metal from the scrap yard, using my high modified/self build welding machines. What could possibly go wrong?
Empty weight on the trailer is around a ton, plus what ever that hunk of german steel weighs.



Helping a friend clean out their garage so they could move we discovered a full bottle of R-22 from her dads HVAC repair days, which they gave to me.
I will likely trade this R-22 for more R-404a.
HVAC companies get suspicious if some one wanders in wanting to sell a bulk bottle of refrigerant. They assume it was stolen and that you are a crack head.
Since I am licensed to handle bulk R-22 and I offer them a trade that favors them very well they work with me.
So it looks like I will keep doing this.

Now that I have the flir I can get a side by side comparison of the air filled tire next to the magic blend and once and for all see if there is a difference.
What I would expect to see if it works, on an air filled tire versus a blend filled tire is a slightly cooler tread and shoulder area with a slightly warmer side wall and rim.

I have not filled any of these tires aside from the slow leaker since june.
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:26 AM   #45 (permalink)
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this is a great thread. always have had interest in air. effervescent.
any info about the welder? I made one from two rewound microwave transformers. worked somewhat decent for small stainless rods but not steel. I was told it looked dangerous.
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93 Chevy CrewCab 6.5 TurboDiesel, GearVendor OverDrive, 4L80 w/ full manual control. Now my DailyDriver


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Originally Posted by Daschicken View Post
....As of lately, I have started taking the bus to the other campus, because there are more people in space than there are parking spots over there.....
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:46 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I started out with actual welding machines. The 2 stick welders I have are heavily modded.
But then I power factor corrected them, added DC, installed inductors, convenience receptacles, ducted their fans, ducted the air flow so fresh air gets drawn in and hot air gets blown out (air was just getting mixed around inside of the housing by the fan).
The little stick welder can now be used for TIG.

All the DC components I added can take a beating. With the large welder I can set it on 230 amps take a 3/16'' 18 inch long 7024 electrode, burn it all the way down to the wire, drop the stub and burn 2 more with out the machine over heating.

My mig welder just has a gas purge switch, I clipped the capacitor bleed down resistors on the main board and replaced them with a "train fan", a 28v DC fan on top of the machine. A tiny version of what you see on a diesel locomotive. Has a DC volt meter showing volts at the leads, I added an additional 100,000uf capacitor to the output side and gave it power factor correction.

I talked about them a little bit here:
Eco mod my welder - EcoRenovator

Fan control so I can run the fan with the transformer off or not run the fan at all when welding on the lowest settings.


Arc softening capacitors boost voltage if needed for some applications.


DC side receptacles with and without inductance. Pulsed DC is a wonderful thing with some electrodes.


Input volt meter.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:16 PM   #47 (permalink)
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i read about you setups on the welder and compressors but get confused about volt/amp/PF, etc....
glad there are people who understand it and make it work.
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02 TDI Jetta- 5 sp: Cooper CS5 at 50 psi, UltraGauge, ventectomy, rear air shocks, mufflerectomy, LED plate light, upper fiberglass grille block, flat wheel covers, front/rear DVR, front lower pan, front fairing.
93 Chevy CrewCab 6.5 TurboDiesel, GearVendor OverDrive, 4L80 w/ full manual control. Now my DailyDriver


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Originally Posted by Daschicken View Post
....As of lately, I have started taking the bus to the other campus, because there are more people in space than there are parking spots over there.....
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:29 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Any updates? Do you know if the R143a damaged the tires or rims? Thanks!
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Old 06-18-2016, 01:58 PM   #49 (permalink)
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The trailer tires are still filled with the R-404a and CO2 mix.
Its not going to damage anything any more than having oxygen in there.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
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Old 05-20-2017, 02:32 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Well its been another year.
The small 8 inch tires went on a little 5,000 mile round trip.
One of them finally wore out after 10 years, replaced it with a new tire which almost immediately failed. I put the worn out tire back on and completed the trip with the cord just starting to show as I got home.

The small trailer is getting a brake axle up grade. The new tires are already filled with the special mix.

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