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Old 07-16-2017, 09:17 PM   #651 (permalink)
Changfa diesel + Suzuki
 
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Centurion - '74 FIAT X1/9 Centurion Full Race DNA
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Originally Posted by Stubby79 View Post
Probably rust, since it's an iron block and been sitting for years.
There was rust for sure and lots of hard "granules". What these granules were made up of is a mystery but they would not allow water to pass out the lower block water outlet - they were packed in pretty tightly. Water pressure to "blow them upward and out" did the trick!
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Old 08-19-2017, 08:54 PM   #652 (permalink)
Changfa diesel + Suzuki
 
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Centurion - '74 FIAT X1/9 Centurion Full Race DNA
Last 3: 143.5 mpg (US)
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Addressing The Original Centurion's Rear Brakes
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The car sat outdoors unattended for decades and as such, the rear brakes weren't working. Red mud from Mars was caked on the inside of the wheels and other places.
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The rear shoes were like new as far as wear goes - ditto for the drums. A simple cleanup was all that was required.
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The rear cylinders and flex-lines were another story and they were replaced.
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And there's soooo much more to do........
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Old 08-20-2017, 12:06 AM   #653 (permalink)
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A lot of work or not, I'm still jealous!
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Old 09-03-2017, 01:13 PM   #654 (permalink)
Changfa diesel + Suzuki
 
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Centurion - '74 FIAT X1/9 Centurion Full Race DNA
Last 3: 143.5 mpg (US)
Thanks: 144
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Addressing The Original Centurion's Front Brakes
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Like the rear brakes, the front didn't work so the calipers and lines were replaced. Although quite grungy, both the pads and discs appear to be just 438 miles used. A light cleanup on the discs and pads finished the job.
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Old 09-04-2017, 06:33 PM   #655 (permalink)
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Been following this for a while, interesting to see the original and the other car for comparison, ride height seems slightly different and is the bumper different too? I'm not too sure how it'd fare over here, not so much top speed, but acceleration. Although it'd like our roads around here, there's usually more road than pothole.
But I've a question. As I understand it, from whats been said on here - the closer you are in total engine power to the speed window that you use (in my case 0-75mph, 30-60mph predominantly) the more efficient.
My car, flat out will do 108mph on 86hp in top apparently (you'd have to be Stirling Moss, or tired of life), and 70mph is 3150rpm. It's a 12v and therefore feak and weeble until it comes on torque, which starts to happen just above 2200. If I disable a cylinder that gives me a 64.5hp triple and 70mph is almost 4000rpm, outside of the max torque window - but would it be overall more or less efficient, all other things being equal? This engine btw is a petrol motor and 90% of my driving is 30-60mph.. which would then be in the torque band.. it isn't at the moment. Have I read this right or am I completely up the wrong tree? 35mph on the triple would be 1875rpm, currently 1500. So 50mph would be right in the power band (2900).. 55 the sweet spot. Top speed would then be 81mph (using calculation of 108*0.75).
Also how would I go about it, this is a hydraulic lifter engine - I can pull the injector cable and remove the spark plug but won't that barf oil everywhere unless there's some sort of 2 way valve plug replacement? I seem to remember it'll send the oxygen sensors up the pictures as well..
would I be better off finding out whether the 0.719 top gear from the i10 would fit to replace the 0.825 I've got now? that's a 12.5% ratio change. But expensive if possible.
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Old 09-04-2017, 06:54 PM   #656 (permalink)
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There was something else I was going to ask you.. have you fitted or considered fitting side indicator and brake repeaters? I ask because there's no side visibility of the tail lights and little on the front either, and it just needs one inattentive wazzock to misjudge what you're doing to take you and the car out.. and having seen the size of US vehicles..
PS, fairing the driving lights into the bumper might help aero a little.
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Old 09-05-2017, 02:06 AM   #657 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosieuk View Post
But I've a question. As I understand it, from whats been said on here - the closer you are in total engine power to the speed window that you use (in my case 0-75mph, 30-60mph predominantly) the more efficient.
Not exactly. But the closer you are to producing your peak torque at some road speed, the better. For example, if you have a top gear that can barely accelerate while doing your chosen speed, it's going to be about as efficient as it gets. That's why my 4.0L 1500kg sedan can get 6.5 l/100km, it does about 1800rpm in top gear at 100km/h.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosieuk View Post
My car, flat out will do 108mph on 86hp in top apparently (you'd have to be Stirling Moss, or tired of life), and 70mph is 3150rpm. It's a 12v and therefore feak and weeble until it comes on torque, which starts to happen just above 2200.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosieuk View Post
If I disable a cylinder that gives me a 64.5hp triple and 70mph is almost 4000rpm, outside of the max torque window - but would it be overall more or less efficient, all other things being equal?
Not how it works. If you disable a cylinder it's still there being a drag, costing energy and providing nothing, and the gearing doesn't change because of it. Less efficient overall. UNLESS you physically stop the valves from opening (still friction, but much less pumping losses). Then it's almost worth it, but only at low loads, and your engine runs rough. Still no gearing change, but the remainder of the engine runs at a higher load and produces better BSFC (fuel consumption per horsepower generated)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosieuk View Post
Also how would I go about it, this is a hydraulic lifter engine - I can pull the injector cable and remove the spark plug but won't that barf oil everywhere unless there's some sort of 2 way valve plug replacement? I seem to remember it'll send the oxygen sensors up the pictures as well..
If you really want to try it, remove the lifters and/or rockers for the desired cylinder if it has one, and disconnect the injector (replacing it electrically with a resistor). Check the cam doesn't hit anything once moving parts are removed, and monitor your oil pressure. It *might* work. On some engine designs the cam lobe could hit the top of the valve though, and then you're up for most of a new engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosieuk View Post
would I be better off finding out whether the 0.719 top gear from the i10 would fit to replace the 0.825 I've got now? that's a 12.5% ratio change. But expensive if possible.
Do this first. In fact there are multiple other things to do first, but this is the only feasible thing you have mentioned that may help
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:24 PM   #658 (permalink)
Changfa diesel + Suzuki
 
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Northern, NY
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Centurion - '74 FIAT X1/9 Centurion Full Race DNA
Last 3: 143.5 mpg (US)
Thanks: 144
Thanked 392 Times in 210 Posts
My thoughts are inline with BLSTIC's from the above post and for a variety of reasons I have no interest in disabling engine cylinders. My experience is that time will be better spent degreeing (sometimes called "blueprinting") an engine, matching it to appropriate gearing, and cleaning up any problematic aero areas the vehicle may have. Shaving off unnecessary weight won't hurt either.
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As small as Centurion is, people seem to see it ok. I could wrap the car in Christmas lights but it won't do any good if another driver chooses distracting activities instead of actually driving.
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Old 09-07-2017, 11:35 PM   #659 (permalink)
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Oh and Changzuki - I once ran CLR through an engine to clean out the inside after it had been run with tap water for a couple of years.

Filled it up with as much CLR as I could afford (apparently you're supposed to go 50/50, but I had a 14L cooling system so screw that) without the thermostat in it, Drove/idled without a thermostat for about half an hour after warmup (you might need cardboard in front of the radiator to keep temps up if you're driving and not just free revving). Dropped that then flushed it thoroughly several times. Unending horror came out of it on the first dump, merely above average on the first flush, then after a couple more flush & starts 'to be sure' it was clean.

The car was a burnout car (4L 240hp 6) and after that was able to stay cool for three minutes at full power with no airflow and just the electric fans. Also the heater worked better than I've ever seen on that type of car.

Might be worth a shot for your rusty engine?

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