Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > EcoModding Central
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 09-01-2014, 01:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 5

Rally Racer - '94 Honda Civic VX
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
slightly old post, but i'm also in the middle of freshening up my d15z1. the parts list is a bit massive but i'm hoping to have this thing factory fresh once i'm done.

i will definitely be replacing the main and rod bearings (the rod bearings are probably the only ones that really could be replaced but might as well do both)

right now i'm debating on how to do the whole piston ring replacement. i've been told npr piston rings are good stuff. but also curious if i should do a rehone on the cylinder walls? the motor was in perfect running order when pulled just 200k miles of regular wear and tear.

so the main question is, SHOULD i hone the cylinders if they look okay? or should honing be done every time the piston rings are replaced?

here's a link to my build thread on honda-tech
honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3041989&p=49928990

  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 09-01-2014, 08:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: north carolina
Posts: 117
Thanks: 2
Thanked 21 Times in 20 Posts
Carry the block to a machine shop where they can check each bore. I'm certain a fresh crosshatch will be necessary. Use ARP hardware when possible. My factory rod bolts stretched when reassembling mine. Also have the cylinder head checked. Valve stem seals replaced, guides checked. Polishing crank journals is also a good idea.
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2014, 11:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
Furry Furfag
 
Baltothewolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 2,084

Winsight - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 56.69 mpg (US)

Miaderp - '95 Mazda Miata
90 day: 28.53 mpg (US)
Thanks: 67
Thanked 409 Times in 313 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gijoe985 View Post
I would be curious to see how other people felt about turbocharging a vx?
Doesn't a turbo spool the entire time on a gas engine? Because if so, bad idea.
__________________

  Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 08:57 AM   #14 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Washington
Posts: 40
Thanks: 5
Thanked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf View Post
Doesn't a turbo spool the entire time on a gas engine? Because if so, bad idea.
True, but there are many people who have shown that a turbo increases fuel efficiency and the efficiency of the burn when it is just barely spooling. I.e. if it "kicks in" at 3000rpm, it helps a lot with fuel at 1000-2700. Which is the range that I drive in.

It was just a thought. I've seen people turbo an old dodge dart with a slant 6 and get 30-40 mpg. Which is amazing for an old hulk like that.
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 09:37 AM   #15 (permalink)
Furry Furfag
 
Baltothewolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 2,084

Winsight - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 56.69 mpg (US)

Miaderp - '95 Mazda Miata
90 day: 28.53 mpg (US)
Thanks: 67
Thanked 409 Times in 313 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gijoe985 View Post
True, but there are many people who have shown that a turbo increases fuel efficiency and the efficiency of the burn when it is just barely spooling. I.e. if it "kicks in" at 3000rpm, it helps a lot with fuel at 1000-2700. Which is the range that I drive in.

It was just a thought. I've seen people turbo an old dodge dart with a slant 6 and get 30-40 mpg. Which is amazing for an old hulk like that.
Well, I know people turbo insights and get extremely good results. So idk? I would love to see it done and see the data.
__________________

  Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2014, 05:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 5

Rally Racer - '94 Honda Civic VX
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02ws6 View Post
Carry the block to a machine shop where they can check each bore. I'm certain a fresh crosshatch will be necessary. Use ARP hardware when possible. My factory rod bolts stretched when reassembling mine. Also have the cylinder head checked. Valve stem seals replaced, guides checked. Polishing crank journals is also a good idea.
thanks for the info.

Already have a set of new valve stem steals ready to go. I checked the head as best i could with my straightedge everything looks good. As i said, the engine was in perfect running condition with no leaks in the old headgasket. Also, there are no bent valves so i dont think there should be anything wrong with the valve guides but i'll visually inspect them as i change the stem seals.

i've already got arp head studs and i'll grab a set of arp rod bolts as well.

now to find a shop i trust to check the bores and do a fresh crosshatch in the block.
  Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 12:02 AM   #17 (permalink)
Water Fuel Designer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Leesburg
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I'm interested in the outcome of this too. What is knife-edging the crank mean? I have 94 vx with 214k, was going to pull the motor because I see head gasket leaking oil, but runs fine. I think I'm going to check compression before tearing it apart... also, what about the springs and pins that lock and unlock the intake valves together when vtec kicks in? Mine are working perfectly smooth so I'm afraid to mess with them but 214k...
  Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 12:45 AM   #18 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Silly-Con Valley
Posts: 1,479
Thanks: 201
Thanked 262 Times in 199 Posts
Knife-edging the crank means grinding the leading edges of the bits that swing around to a sharp edge. In theory, this helps them go through the air and the oil spray that are inside the engine block. It helps at high RPMs, but doesn't really do much at low RPMs where we like to drive. In a high-revving race motor, it can be good for a couple of percentage points of power, in combination with boat-tailing the mains (more aero mods to the moving parts of the crank).

Don't bother with those in a street motor.

-soD

  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread


Thread Tools




Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com