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Old 03-27-2018, 08:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19bonestock88 View Post
The minuscule amp draw from an LED running light could just about be offset by running the instrument panel lighting at a lower brightness (assuming that they’re incandescent lights)...
Most instrument panel dimmers just add resistance Heat instead of lighting consuming the same volume Watts. This may be different with the modern equipment

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Old 03-27-2018, 11:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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LED DRL's use like literally nothing. Jusy buy nice LEDs and move on. Its like how I have to tell myself not to get my heart set on cool quirky mods for my car that do little but spend my money. (its never gonna ROI out)
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Old 03-29-2018, 12:26 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Sounds to me like a way to add enough drag and complexity to offset the 1W power saving.
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Old 04-14-2018, 04:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I would think placing them in the grille area where air is already flowing into wouldn't hurt that much. I don't know, I guess they just looked appealing since my wiring knowledge is at a zero.
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Old 04-14-2018, 09:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Likely either drag or power draw will disappear into background noise, so you're probably right. There's also something to be said for simplicity.
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Old 04-14-2018, 11:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
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You could add a dedicated battery for the DRLs and charge it at home.

I hear deer are terrified of small black boxes, but not all are smart enough to fear them.
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Old 04-15-2018, 01:16 AM   #17 (permalink)
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They instinctively freeze in the headlights. I thought train headlights swept from side to side to 'unfreeze' them (or cows) but a web search does not support the claim.
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Old 04-15-2018, 07:23 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I think I would add a moderate solar tirckle charge for the starter battery in general. Maybe 80watts. Then just wire-in my DRLs. It might more or less be a wash, over all.

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