Wonderboy's Metro XFi Revival

[chuckm]

Last time I had to replace a head gasket, I had access to the parts washer in my college's machine shop. After I knocked the heavy crud off of the head using a few maroon scotch brite's, I put the head in the washer and did a VERY thorough flush and brush (ZEP cleaner with a stiff nylon bristle brush). I used Frank's white paper towel test to determine if it was clean.

[Wonderboy]

Anyone know if that galley is pressurized or a return? It's the non head bolt hole closest to the water pump in the block...

[Frank Lee]

Ask Mullet or go to his site.

[metroschultz]

It is a return hole.
A small amount of RTV should fix you right up.
Hit Mullets site and get the info on the head gasket return holes. Some are larger than others, and we have been opening the smaller ones to match the larger ones.

[dwtaylorpdx]

I just would never put a block back together without boiling it out.

I don't like pulling engines enough to do it multiple times.

Most machine shops will clean a block for well under 100 bucks if its fully stripped when you bring it in including all the freeze plugs, and all the threaded galley plugs for the oil galleys. An hour in the tank and your block is CLEAN!

Just me, I run em too hard not to feed them extra good...

Dave

[Christ]

Originally Posted by dwtaylorpdx

I just would never put a block back together without boiling it out.

I don't like pulling engines enough to do it multiple times.

Most machine shops will clean a block for well under 100 bucks if its fully stripped when you bring it in including all the freeze plugs, and all the threaded galley plugs for the oil galleys. An hour in the tank and your block is CLEAN!

Just me, I run em too hard not to feed them extra good...

Dave

I can appreciate this, for sure.

If I rebuild an engine completely, I take all precautions to make sure I won't have to do it again. That's not saying I won't do it again anyway, for the hell of it, but I won't have to.

That said, one of my poor-house friends suggested doing what he does: Bathe the engine block and all associated parts in warmed coolant mixture (no more than 120-130 degF, he doesn't explain why, besides not burning yourself.) for a few hours.

I have personally seen how nicely coolant mixtures remove carbon from cylinders, so I can't imagine it wouldn't work to clean other surfaces. A straight steam bath also works, FWIW.

[Johnny Mullet]

Those are oil return holes. You can use some RTV to make sure there are no leaks at that mark and you should be fine. Also make sure you get the proper head gasket or at least modify yours so the oil return holes are the proper size. More info..............
Head gasket warning/Oil pan gaskets.

Boiling the block and head make them pretty. I have never done this on all the rebuilds I have done. The Suzuki engine is a pretty tough cookie and I have never found any structural issues with these engines.

[Wonderboy]

I really appreciate the info, guys. I didn't intend on giving the block a bath, and probably won't. The transmission cleaned off nicely with some degreaser and a stiff nylon brush. Mullet's link references a check valve that I don't remember seeing. Just because I don't remember it doesn't mean it's not there... but if it's not what do I do? Might my engine not have it? I definitely would've noticed if it fell out. More importantly, there was existing RTV on my oil pan, but the gasket set I bought from JIS has an oil pan gasket in it.
From the link:

Another issue with a gasket is the oil pan. If you have a 1996 or newer Metro, do not use an oil pan gasket. The gasket is made aftermarket, but not used at the factory. The aftermarket oil pan gasket is too thick and will make the crank sensor gap incorrect and cause driveability problems. Only use RTV sealant on the oil pan.

Since this is not a post '95, will the crank sensor gap be affected or should I throw on the gasket I got?

Thanks,
Will

[Christ]

Hell, I don't use gaskets on oil-retaining surfaces at all, no matter what car it is.

I use RTV on trans pans, valve covers, and oil pans. Also, basically anywhere that would otherwise be OK with a paper gasket.

If the car came with silicone or rubber-like gaskets in those places, I reuse them. I dont' normally buy gaskets, though.

I also never put exhaust manifold gaskets back on.

[Johnny Mullet]

You can get that check valve from the dealer for under $10.00. I am not sure what the part# is on it though. You can use the oil pan gasket on a pre-1996 Metro if you wish, but I have better luck using just RTV sealant.