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Old 01-08-2017, 02:01 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Brian, you've got a lot of time and infrastructure constraints to deal with.

You can only simplify so far (unless you are amazingly lucky) and then you've got to put in the work to get what you want.

There is flexible architectural 1/4 round molding but it seems to go no bigger than 3/4" radius, and for the leading edge of the seat back/fairing I'd think you'd want something closer to 1.5-2". If it came in the larger size it would be very handy.

Here's an idea for you with a quick model that will hopefully make it clear. Get some flexible large OD hose -- maybe you can find shop vac hose with a fairly smooth outer surface, but you may need to get vinyl/rubber hose. Pin thhe hose (silver) to the front of your seat back/box (green) matching the edge of the box, fill in the side gap (red) (consider some of the thin aluminum roof flashing, it is very handy), do some bondo to get as clean of a plug as you can and then pull a quick fiberglass mold off of that.

You don't have much time available to cruise Ikea, Home Despot, random stores, junkyards etc looking for found objects shaped just the way you want. A friend did that many years ago, looking at plastic waste baskets/clothes hampers until he found one that was just the shape he wanted, and then used that as a mold for a race seat tail section.

cheers,
Michael

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Old 01-08-2017, 05:57 PM   #52 (permalink)
Two weels Zero sparkplugs
 
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The new super charger is coming closer and closer, until +1C charging is figured out properly I'm planning to roll with a 13,2kW unit and upgrade it later when the tail goes on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by briantrice View Post
There will be a tail, just shorter: not the ideal 7 degrees but Kamm ended and probably 10 degrees which with a 6" wide Kamm back makes a tail only 31" from the back edge of the luggage rack.

I'll attach a CAD screenshot of the outline comparison.

What I've spent time on is making sure I can easily remove the tail by using the luggage rack for attachment points and the seat plus top rack for another support. So the construction has been a thought process.

The other difficulty is an effective way to craft a rounded front / seatback for the tail. Any thoughts? For the DSR, I need to put chargers there (on the passenger seat) for ideal load distribution, which I bought a used but suitably-dimensioned Pelican case to mock up and it seems workable. The Pelican case is just too rectangular.



The polycarbonate windscreen to cover that area is on order right now and will be ready by Monday. Unfortunately, I'll be on a trip for a week, so won't be able to pick it up and try it until MLK today (following Monday).

I only get the most modest of benefits right now, maybe 10% at best. The airflow is much smoother and it is really doing enough work that my windscreen design is now unsuitable overall (it'd be fine for most riders but I can tell that I might actually benefit switching back to Zero's MRA windscreen with the spoiler).
I'm looking forward to see the poly go in, are you going to keep that stock front fender?
I'm also looking in sacrificing the back seat for a small charge tail since it's not used anyway, but until then a top case has to suffice in keeping the chargers dry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sendler View Post
My tail is only a few inches behind the rear wheel.
.
And I wouldn't know what you mean since I am never on the edge of sensible. I would hope that you would be patient and safe in traffic. Aggressive and selfish riding by a few gives us all a bad name.
Nothing stupid of course, filtering is legal here and it's nice to squeeze through the small gaps or pass a row of cars that are waiting for a traffic light on the left. Both things need more flexible manoeuvring that a full vetter can handle.
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Old 01-09-2017, 12:49 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erasmo View Post
I'm looking forward to see the poly go in, are you going to keep that stock front fender?
It would be very helpful to have a low fender option, which is why I asked earlier how you did it, but for now I intend to either lower the fender by 20mm using spacers and longer mount bolts, or just cut the front short another two inches or so.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erasmo View Post
I'm also looking in sacrificing the back seat for a small charge tail since it's not used anyway, but until then a top case has to suffice in keeping the chargers dry.
I acquired a Pelican 1450 case that is just the right size for an Elcon and a Supercharger with their cabling, and yet fits in the passenger seat area (ahead of my Maxia case). It's rather bulky, though, and feels like a potentially dangerous load if the mounting isn't secure. It has occurred to me to just get a really huge case to fasten to the top rack and have it rest lengthwise as the tail storage.

Today, I entertained the crazy idea that a Thule cargo top carrier might work, but they're all rather long and of course low profile, e.g. Sidekick
https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/cargo...ekick-_-682000

But I did find these which look somewhat more compact and tiny bit taller (Interstate):
https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/cargo...tate-_-1683516

Last edited by briantrice; 01-09-2017 at 01:22 AM.. Reason: fixed link
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Old 01-09-2017, 12:52 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Moore View Post
There is flexible architectural 1/4 round molding but it seems to go no bigger than 3/4" radius, and for the leading edge of the seat back/fairing I'd think you'd want something closer to 1.5-2". If it came in the larger size it would be very handy.

Here's an idea for you with a quick model that will hopefully make it clear. Get some flexible large OD hose -- maybe you can find shop vac hose with a fairly smooth outer surface, but you may need to get vinyl/rubber hose. Pin the hose (silver) to the front of your seat back/box (green) matching the edge of the box, fill in the side gap (red) (consider some of the thin aluminum roof flashing, it is very handy), do some bondo to get as clean of a plug as you can and then pull a quick fiberglass mold off of that.
Okay, that's a proposal I think I can work with. I'll have to think that through with some drawings and see whether it works.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Moore View Post
Brian, you've got a lot of time and infrastructure constraints to deal with.

You can only simplify so far (unless you are amazingly lucky) and then you've got to put in the work to get what you want.

You don't have much time available to cruise Ikea, Home Despot, random stores, junkyards etc looking for found objects shaped just the way you want. A friend did that many years ago, looking at plastic waste baskets/clothes hampers until he found one that was just the shape he wanted, and then used that as a mold for a race seat tail section.
I've been habituated now to McMaster-Carr, Lowe's, and Orchard Supply locally.
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Old 01-09-2017, 03:17 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briantrice View Post
It would be very helpful to have a low fender option, which is why I asked earlier how you did it, but for now I intend to either lower the fender by 20mm using spacers and longer mount bolts, or just cut the front short another two inches or so.
The shop is still working on it, when it is finished I'll share pictures.

Edit: My guy is somebody who does this on the side, he's a good panel beater and painter but he also deserves some rest during the holidays.

Last edited by Erasmo; 01-11-2017 at 05:43 AM..
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:15 PM   #56 (permalink)
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I use foam pipe insulation for filling the gaps
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:20 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Moore View Post
Brian, you've got a lot of time and infrastructure constraints to deal with.

You can only simplify so far (unless you are amazingly lucky) and then you've got to put in the work to get what you want.

There is flexible architectural 1/4 round molding but it seems to go no bigger than 3/4" radius, and for the leading edge of the seat back/fairing I'd think you'd want something closer to 1.5-2". If it came in the larger size it would be very handy.

Here's an idea for you with a quick model that will hopefully make it clear. Get some flexible large OD hose -- maybe you can find shop vac hose with a fairly smooth outer surface, but you may need to get vinyl/rubber hose. Pin thhe hose (silver) to the front of your seat back/box (green) matching the edge of the box, fill in the side gap (red) (consider some of the thin aluminum roof flashing, it is very handy), do some bondo to get as clean of a plug as you can and then pull a quick fiberglass mold off of that.

You don't have much time available to cruise Ikea, Home Despot, random stores, junkyards etc looking for found objects shaped just the way you want. A friend did that many years ago, looking at plastic waste baskets/clothes hampers until he found one that was just the shape he wanted, and then used that as a mold for a race seat tail section.
I got some great advice over my holiday vacation about working with composites which I'll try to act on quickly. The short version before I elaborate later is that it's good to talk to particularly tech-oriented engineers with nautical experience.
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Old 01-23-2017, 02:24 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant-53 View Post
I use foam pipe insulation for filling the gaps
It's hard to picture that. Is that the stuff they
use between a water heater and the shower
to keep the water from cooling too much in
transit? Like pool noodle kind of stuff?
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Old 01-25-2017, 07:44 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Yes this stuff:



Also, if you don't have this on your heating/water pipes yet, do it asap. It has a ROI of only a few months...
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Old 02-16-2017, 03:14 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Update time: Temperatures are above zero again, working on the fairing can finally commence!

Today was test fit day:








Even without me on the bike it's already looking ok. Now it is time to take lots of pictures, make temporarily wooden struts and maybe even go for a few test rides. On this project it is really going to be measure twice, cut once.

The XJ600 is working fine but I miss riding electric so much...

I'm wondering if I can use the aero template on the bike to get the right angle and keep helmet wind buffering at a decent rate, might save a few tests.

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