Quote:
Originally Posted by orange4boy
A given motor will put out roughly double the hp with double the voltage.
As was stated above, an induction motor would require an expensive controller and high power inverter.
For an easy contactor motor EV set up I would look for a used permanent magnet brushed motor.
2 wires, no waiting. Fairly simple to set up a series parallel contactor arrangement. That's how the Auranthetic bikes are set up. They are rated 1 hp cont. but probably put out 3 or more up hills.
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Yeah, I've grasped that, but I really only want to run it at 120VDC, so it should only be able to make ~5HP at any time, right?
The only real variable there should be the amp draw, which (obviously) changes the resultant output.
*The basic idea in more depth - gear the motor so that at max RPM, it propels the vehicle at 30 MPH with only one multiplication of torque (no gear changes) (3450RPM for those two motors).
*Use a contactor setup controlled by a pedal to switch the motor on/off with no PWM. Either motor on accelerating/max speed, or motor off/no speed.
*Only needs a range of a few miles to get me around town and home... anything else would require 40+ mile range at the least, and isn't feasible for me at this time.
If the "snap" is too much, I could add a torque damper between the motor and drive to absorb some of it... clutch plates have springs in them for exactly this reason, I could make something similar without too much trouble.
So basically, let's take the motor out of the equation, and work with the fairly simple parameters laid out above.
Given those parameters, could Joe next door take a 5HP compressor motor, slap it into his car, stack/wire 120V worth of batteries in the back seat, and drive to the parts store to buy the parts to fix an engine (that probably came out of the same car...)? (Assume that whatever E-motor Joe is using happens to be OK with DC, even though it's an AC motor.)