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Old 09-05-2012, 02:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: United States
Posts: 9

Power Ranger - '97 Ford Ranger 4x2
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I'm still working on understanding the warm air intake bit. I understand that heat is power and heat soak through and out of the block means losing power. I know thatis one compromise of aftermarket aluminum heads; they are a giant heat sink but they offset the loses by extraordinary flow and weight loses. I feel like the more power you make from the same cu. in. is increasing effeciency. ie.. you getting more with the same size. hence why turbo cars make huge power and can still get great fuel mileage. My thinking is that the bsfc best effeciency for that motor may just more on the chart to a different rpm and possibly load. But i'm no genius, just thinking outloud and trying to put 1 and 1 together and have it equal 2.

As for structure on the air foil. I spoke with a friend who has the bead roller and is a race car chassis designer/builder, and he said with proper bead rolling, the aluminum sides and an aluminum center support(identicle to the side pieces), it would be way more than enough. All with saving as much weight(and more importantly $) as possible. We will also be doing the wheel well openings in this fashion. Rolled and folded corners, bead rolled the length, and good rivets will be more than enough for permanent support. It will be riveted to the cap and double sided taped to the cab. I will probably use butyl tape between the cap and the foil to reduce vibration and noise. The material is I believe 6063 at .040 so it is light and easy to manipulate. it is about 16lbs per 4x8 sheet. i think i will use 3 sheets for the air foil, wheel wells, and hitch carrier sides, for a total of less than 60lbs.
Got a little backed up as I had to replace the timing belt, thermostat, valve cover gasket and water pump. Certainly dont want anything breaking down 3000 miles from home.
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