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I also installed a heat exchanger I had in the airbox. It was tight but I shoe horned it in with a couple of notches in each side. it was 1" thick and just the size of the rectangular filter element. I installed it jsut below the filter. I had to reroute the intake to the lower corner which was better and allowed the air to flow the max distance over the exchanger. I covered the airbox inside with some real aluminum duct tape also. The tube was 4 passes and 1/4''. I ran 3/8 ID hose from the heater core return line. I used 2 manual ball valves to control the flow and experiment. I can run full bypass, allow full flow to the airbox or partial flow also. I was gong to install a 4 way valve that I could control from in the cabin, but I found this wasn't needed. With the airbox loop wide open and the bypass half opened the exchanger will raise the AIT about 10 to 11 degrees as measured from one side of the airbox to the other as measured with an IR temp tool.
I hung a cheap pool thermometer in front of the inlet to monitor the under hood input.
BTW, the airbox inlet opening is just a 1.25 ID tube near the lower radiator hose and an additional 5/8" hole between the heat exchanger hose inlets.
Didn't need it much in August except for warmup, but am using it all the time now that outside temps are lower. I have a MAF. I guess the theory is 10% less dense air, then 10% less fuel, less horsepower but the v8 has more than enough for ecodriving. No lugging and have run it up to 90mph with no problems. Hard for me to give any direct FE improvement number. I would guess less than .5 mpg though so far. Winter will be interesting.
Also, before I installed it I measured about a 10 degree differential on the cabin heater supply and return line. If I wanted to lower the supply temp to the airbox I could turn on the heater, lol
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