Yep it was not able to get up the hill with all the potholes in the road
I think I need to play with the motor timing some more to tune it a bit better. It has much more power in reverse and can back up that hill easier, but I can do that later. Right now the main thing is to properly wire up the controls and get some gauges in there. The controller has an output pin to monitor the current since you cant directly measure an AC motor:
Quote:
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The output is a PWM, whose duty cycle represents current. 100% is max current. You can use any supply, such as 5V, 12V, battery voltage. It can drive simple electro-magnetic needle. We do provide such a meter. Just wire the meter between 5V and the output.
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So I will have a voltmeter on the batteries and an analog ampmeter measuring motor current. I could also measure battery current but it won't mean that much since the controller doesn't output battery voltage all the time to the motor. It pulls about 40 amps from the batteries when starting out. I am thinking of putting a relay on the reverse lights to kick the controller in reverse. That way I push the clutch and shift to reverse instead of flipping a switch. It would be one less control in the car and keep everything as easy as possible to operate.
On the video I ran electric backing out then making a couple of runs at the hill. Then I started the motor on the bridge long enough to get over it then killed it by stalling the engine. I ran down the alley electric only till I got to the main road where I started the gas motor to pull out. Once I was up to speed I just left it in N and running in case I needed it.
with a 44 tooth sprocket it gives me 4.88:1 gearing and my mph vs rpm looks like:
Code:
rpm 359 718 1436 2154 2872 3231 3590 3949 4308
mph 5 10 20 30 40 45 50 55 60
From what I have seen online this motor can really run up to 5000 so if I limit myself to 60mph that will work out good and give me a good bit more power.