Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > EcoModding Central
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 09-24-2014, 04:14 PM   #71 (permalink)
Administrator
 
Daox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Germantown, WI
Posts: 11,203

CM400E - '81 Honda CM400E
90 day: 51.49 mpg (US)

Daox's Grey Prius - '04 Toyota Prius
Team Toyota
90 day: 49.53 mpg (US)

Daox's Insight - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 64.33 mpg (US)

Swarthy - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage DE
Mitsubishi
90 day: 56.69 mpg (US)

Daox's Volt - '13 Chevrolet Volt
Thanks: 2,501
Thanked 2,585 Times in 1,553 Posts
It doesn't get a ton lighter than the Tercel haha. It weighs in at 1925 lbs.

The current mod for the trans I'm looking at is dropping an automatic's 4spd differential gearing in it. The extra 5spd manual Paseo (which is what I have laying around) trans has a stock 3.94 diff ratio where as the automatic has a 2.82. I still have to verify that it'll physically fit. If it does, that means I'll be running just under 1400 rpm (vs 1940) @ 45 mph and 2000 (vs 2800) @ 65 for the freeway drivers.

__________________
Current project: A better alternator delete
  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 09-24-2014, 09:06 PM   #72 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sidney NY USA
Posts: 64

Horse with no name - '00 Ford Mustang Base
Team Mustang
90 day: 20.53 mpg (US)

Orange peel - '00 Ford Focus SE
90 day: 26.83 mpg (US)
Thanks: 3
Thanked 11 Times in 7 Posts
That is strange. In the old days automatics had a lower ration so using an automatic gearing resulted in higher engine speeds.

I like your idea. I was designing a belly pan to achieve the same thing by letting the exhaust pipes heat the transmission in a rear wheel drive. I have yet to complete it but I think it would have needed a louvered lower grill block to allow the engine to actually heat up before 10 miles.

Personally I would use an electric block heater to preheat the engine and trans-axle if electricity is cheap where you live. Finding a way to heat the trans-axle with coolant is the real challenge.
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2014, 09:28 PM   #73 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,927
Thanks: 877
Thanked 2,024 Times in 1,304 Posts
I just looked at my Sentra. The radiator is a top-bottom tank type, not crossflow.The reverse flow cooling system feeds the hottest coolant to the transmission cooler which is in the bottom tank, exactly the opposite of normal. This heats the cold transmission fluid and warms it up instead of cooling the fluid. Once the transmission reaches a temperature above the 169.7 (76.5C) thermostat opening point then the transmission fluid is cooled to maintain a consistent temperature.

In regular flow systems the transmission fluid cooler is in the opposite location, where the coldest fluid in the radiator is located.

There it is "heating the transmission fluid with engine heat" in 1992.

regards
mech
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to user removed For This Useful Post:
Daox (09-24-2014)
Old 09-24-2014, 10:37 PM   #74 (permalink)
Corporate imperialist
 
oil pan 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
Posts: 11,184

Sub - '84 Chevy Diesel Suburban C10
SUV
90 day: 19.5 mpg (US)

camaro - '85 Chevy Camaro Z28

Riot - '03 Kia Rio POS
Team Hyundai
90 day: 30.21 mpg (US)

Bug - '01 VW Beetle GLSturbo
90 day: 26.43 mpg (US)

Sub2500 - '86 GMC Suburban C2500
90 day: 11.95 mpg (US)

Snow flake - '11 Nissan Leaf SL
SUV
90 day: 141.63 mpg (US)
Thanks: 270
Thanked 3,527 Times in 2,801 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
There it is "heating the transmission fluid with engine heat" in 1992.
My suburban came with it. And that was 1984.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2014, 10:46 PM   #75 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,927
Thanks: 877
Thanked 2,024 Times in 1,304 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
My suburban came with it. And that was 1984.
A reverse flow cooling system?

regards
mech
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2014, 11:04 PM   #76 (permalink)
Administrator
 
Daox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Germantown, WI
Posts: 11,203

CM400E - '81 Honda CM400E
90 day: 51.49 mpg (US)

Daox's Grey Prius - '04 Toyota Prius
Team Toyota
90 day: 49.53 mpg (US)

Daox's Insight - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 64.33 mpg (US)

Swarthy - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage DE
Mitsubishi
90 day: 56.69 mpg (US)

Daox's Volt - '13 Chevrolet Volt
Thanks: 2,501
Thanked 2,585 Times in 1,553 Posts
Has anyone ever seen this on a manual transmission?
__________________
Current project: A better alternator delete
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2014, 01:43 AM   #77 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Sacramento Area
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If you have a garage with a gas dryer, you could dry clothes in the morning and preheat the tranny and block using the waste heat diverted using a HVAC flex hose. I'm thinking more of the life cycle energy, using some heat you generate anyway in the morning. Any other such heat sources? Water heater?
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2014, 04:28 AM   #78 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Oxford, UK
Posts: 126

Black Beast - '02 VW Goff Estate S
Thanks: 27
Thanked 51 Times in 31 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
You make very good points and I don't really disagree with any of them.

If I were to go the thermostat route, I'd probably use a lower temp thermostat though, say 160F. This would ensure that the trans thermostat opens before the radiator thermostat even begins to open up.

That all being said, where could one get a stand alone / inline thermostat housing?
I did a Google search for "inline thermostat housing car auto" and turned up a few...

RANGE ROVER P38 4.4/4.6V8 - In-line Thermostat and Housing Assembly (PEM101130) | eBay

...this being one of them. Seems inline housings are used in Range Rovers, maybe Jeep Cherokees too. But anyway they seem to be available. The Range Rover one seems to be nice and compact, although I'm not sure why it has three spiggots and not two.

[Edit...] Or this one...?

http://files.qedmotorsport.co.uk/k-s...at_fitting.pdf

...but I still think the gearbox will neither know nor care about a difference of 10 or 20 degrees at around about engine temperature. I wonder if Toyota have tested their gearboxes towing a caravan up a mountain out of Death Valley. Vehicle manufacturers tend to test at extreme temperatures because they want their vehicle to be sold into every market world-wide. (The Taliban used to use Toyota pickups in the desert of Afghanistan I believe. That's some kind of endorsement I guess.)
__________________

Last edited by paulgato; 09-25-2014 at 04:47 AM..
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to paulgato For This Useful Post:
Daox (09-25-2014)
Old 09-25-2014, 05:58 AM   #79 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
All

Quick 2c here:
- Auto transmissions usually have heat exchangers to the engine radiator (eg inside a header tank) for two reasons - faster warm up when cold (engine warms faster usually) and then to dump heat from the oil (cavitation heating of the oil in the torque convertor, friction). Any thermostat is usually just to stop the oil being over-cooled.

- Manual transmissions probably won't benefit from a heater siimply because of the oil viscosities ... most manuals specify a monoweight oil (80, 90) and if multiweight (80-90 or say 75-140) then it's going to get **thicker** as it heats, not thinner. Surely in that case you need cooling, not heating?

Maybe a manual might be specced for a monoweight oil by the OEM, and if so then going to the lowest for your running temperatures would be an advantage. My call would be to err on the side of caution - most gearboxes are 100% splash lubricated (some will have catch channels to gather spray & duct it into bearings too) so getting it wrong will lead to less average lubrication & so friction losses & wear.

HTH

Max
(old guy who's played with too many European cars with hot automatics and too many noisy motorcycle crash gearboxes )
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2014, 08:54 AM   #80 (permalink)
Administrator
 
Daox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Germantown, WI
Posts: 11,203

CM400E - '81 Honda CM400E
90 day: 51.49 mpg (US)

Daox's Grey Prius - '04 Toyota Prius
Team Toyota
90 day: 49.53 mpg (US)

Daox's Insight - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 64.33 mpg (US)

Swarthy - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage DE
Mitsubishi
90 day: 56.69 mpg (US)

Daox's Volt - '13 Chevrolet Volt
Thanks: 2,501
Thanked 2,585 Times in 1,553 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxfnz View Post
- Auto transmissions usually have heat exchangers to the engine radiator (eg inside a header tank) for two reasons - faster warm up when cold (engine warms faster usually) and then to dump heat from the oil (cavitation heating of the oil in the torque convertor, friction). Any thermostat is usually just to stop the oil being over-cooled.
Thanks Max! This leads me to believe I'm not totally off base here. Though I have no doubt that the manual trans will have less gains from heating the fluid than an automatic trans.



Quote:
- Manual transmissions probably won't benefit from a heater siimply because of the oil viscosities ... most manuals specify a monoweight oil (80, 90) and if multiweight (80-90 or say 75-140) then it's going to get **thicker** as it heats, not thinner. Surely in that case you need cooling, not heating?
This isn't completely true. Lets use 75W-90 for example because that is what is called for by my transmission. As we all know, 75W90 oil acts like a 75W when cold, but 90W when hot. So lets pull the specs from the amsoil site:

Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D 445) = 13.9
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cst (ASTM D 445) = 87.6

As you can see, the 75W90 oil is still a lot thicker at 40C than it is at 100C. This is because oil thins out as it warms up, and 90W is thinner at 100C than 75W is at 40C.

__________________
Current project: A better alternator delete
  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread






Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com