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Old 05-18-2015, 10:06 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2009Toyotoad View Post
Hypermiling is not an option out in my neck of the woods. Many have tried and found themselves run off the road, or being followed by flashing lights.
Welcome to the fun!

But FWIW, hypermiling isn't about driving slowly. Driving slowly helps cut down on drag, but so do aeromods and drafting- and on a crowded road everybody's drafting, even if they don't know it.

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Originally Posted by sheepdog44 View Post
Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%

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Old 05-18-2015, 10:27 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Good catch mecht. I meant to say Tercel rather than Corolla. I must have confused the two after reading so many posts yesterday. I believe the gears are out of the C150 Toyota trans case. They are suppose to by a direct fit into the C50 case of the yaris or vios.

Again I need to get with a manual transmission specialist to completely proof out the information, but I will soon.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BabyDiesel View Post
Welcome!

I am not familiar with Toyota engine by any means, but can Prius pistons be used in your 1.5? I believe I read they give a higher compression ratio and more efficiency. I know Echofrancis is putting them in the Echo-Troll.
Excellent question! Up until recent MY the Yaris/Prius/Scion Xa and Xb shared the same basic long block engine, except the engine was called the 1NZ-FXE in the Prius to denote the Atkinson cycle and the longer rods for the 13.1 to 1 compression ratio versus the 10.1 ratio of the 1NZ-FE. I think the piston were actually the same size, under two different part numbers, but the rods were different. Also note the exhaust manifold was a true 2 into 1 design versus the 4 into 1 design for the Yaris, Xa, and Xb. Increasing the compression ratio might present some issues to the ECU which means recalibration and lower torque at low and midrange rpms. As torque get the vehicle moving and the small 1.5 liter displacement can be a little hairy in highway onramp situations, I'm actually going the other direction in my design.

I want to lower the rpms for maximum torque, so the standing start to freeway speed time interval decreases.

I'll use a two inch spacer between the intake manifold and the head. This should have an effect similar to running extra long headers on the exhaust side of the head. Since there aren't long tube headers manufactured for the 1NZ-FE engine which would fit the system, creating the spacing on the intake side seemed the more logical choice.
Throttle body spacers and long rise intakes are a mainstay of the hotrod/ performance oriented community for decades.

It has taken me several hours of research to find a manufacturer. As I said in my original post vendor support, for the Yaris in falling off, but I found a 2" spacer which should do the job and hide well under the engine cover.

This is a daily driver need to pass smog or emission testing every two years. They don't actually dyno cars anymore in California for MY 2000 or newer. They do the physical inspection and hock up to the OBDII connector looking for codes and modifactions.

Last edited by 2009Toyotoad; 05-18-2015 at 12:17 PM..
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:24 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Charlie View Post
Welcome to the fun!

But FWIW, hypermiling isn't about driving slowly. Driving slowly helps cut down on drag, but so do aeromods and drafting- and on a crowded road everybody's drafting, even if they don't know it.
I hope I didn't give the impression that I had any issues with hypermiling in terms of speed, but drafting will get the red lights behind you in a hurry out here. Its my understanding that to be effective you need to get close enough to be out of the turbulence wave coming off the "draftee" so it depends on how big the draftee is. It might be possible with an 18 wheeler but not with an SUV or cargo Van.

Aero mods are worth further investigation. The price of carbon fiber molding and 3D modeling or even printing has dropped significantly in the lsst year. but you need to acknowledge to trade off between added weight to the rolling mass, versus Aero effect. That's where it gets sticky and costly for vehicle repairs if its ever needs body damage repairs.

Last edited by 2009Toyotoad; 05-18-2015 at 12:21 PM..
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bentring View Post
From what I've read, you must be fairly close to crazy to buy and register an out of state car in CA. Threads like these make me wish I had spent more time in a shop so I could give useful input, but I am good at finding things online so here's the 20% off coupon you mentioned. You should be able to click the picture of the coupon and it will pop up a printable one.
Thanks for the link to the coupon.

You know buying and out of state new vehicle and registering it in California is not as difficult as the California auto dealers association would lead people to think. Honestly, sham on them!

The rules have not changed since the 1980s

1. A car is considered new if it has less than 7,500 miles on the odometer at the time of sale.

2. The most important piece of knowledge when looking for an out of state vehicle is the emission sticker under the hood. It must say "and California" in the emission compliance statement. Without it you car is under the federal emissions standard which make the assessment process with the DMV assessor more time consuming and problematic, Note I'm not saying it won't pass, but it will get the smog impact challenge as possible service fees.

3. After your first meeting with the DMV you and they will schedule an appointment with a DMV assessor. The closest one to me was at Evergreen college. They will inspect and Dyno the car and the first thing they will check is the emissions sticker.

My experience will likely be different from others. The thing I remember the most was needing to partially educate the assessor. Actually the assessor, his instructor, and a training tech. Lots of books came off the shelves that day. and to be completely truthful I learned some valuable info to help them streamline the process a bit. They had never done a new car testing & inspection prior to my visit. So a Tech cheat sheet was created in the process. I found it surprising I was the first at least in their memory given the number of cars registered in my county.

The steps listed above are directly from the tech cheat sheet.

My point is don't let the dealers lack of knowledge or ignorance stop you from getting the car you want with the options you want. You shouldn't be paying thousand more for dealer installed options which are available as factory installs. And you should never get "con'd" into paying extra for inter-dealership inventory trading or transport fees to get the car you want delivered to the local dealer.

We all work too hard for the money.

Now, I might get flamed for sharing this info, but I'll stand on the merits and the California vehicle code.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The first hardware upgrade is either a ScanGauge or UltraGauge. Even before it's properly calibrated, the instant mpg numbers are useful- you can watch the effects of other traffic on you.

It's not Nascar or anything and tailgating is an entirely different ball game, but having a car in front and/or behind you helps your aero. As long as things are moving smoothly, you're getting an aero benefit just by being in traffic. Here it's called the corridor effect.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheepdog44 View Post
Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%

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Old 05-18-2015, 12:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Charlie View Post
The first hardware upgrade is either a ScanGauge or UltraGauge. Even before it's properly calibrated, the instant mpg numbers are useful- you can watch the effects of other traffic on you.
What do you think about the smart phone App "Torque Pro " paired with a Bluetooth OBD II (ECM brand) device? I like ScanGauge, but have not seen UltraGauge. but the Torque Pro App appears to be very tunable. Ultimately, these are testing tools not likely to be permanently mounted in my car. they will be used to test the impacts of mods.

Somewhere I've got an old "eco meter" made by Auto Meter, but always found that challenging to get it calibrated correctly

As to drafting I agree that most people do it, without realizing it in congested traffic. My normal commute is not during high traffic commuter times for the most part. As I age I also question my reaction time after 8+hours of work
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Old 05-18-2015, 02:02 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I loved Torque. I just didn't love bluetooth and having my phone locked in to it. I don't have a ScanGauge so I can't say, but the UltraGauge plugs into the OBD connector and comes with a suction cup mount, so a little dab of glass cleaner and it never happened. Calibrating one is just a matter of telling it how far you've gone and how much gas you've added. After a few tanks you've got numbers you can feel confident in.

Having good instrumentation makes you wonder why manufacturers even bother with the idiot lights and useless gauges. The mpg feedback makes driving an entirely different experiance.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheepdog44 View Post
Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%

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Old 05-18-2015, 02:48 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Charlie View Post
I loved Torque. I just didn't love Bluetooth........

Having good instrumentation makes you wonder why manufacturers even bother with the idiot lights and useless gauges. The mpg feedback makes driving an entirely different experiance.
I'm okay with blue tooth and I like being able to capture all data to a storage log file. Torque pro is an App for both Android and IOS you can always run it from a tablet with lots of storage space and graph the data separately.

As for idiot lights and limited cycle gauges, I couldn't agree more. What is the point having the sensors send all that data ECU if you can't display it on the instrument panel somewhere? GM vehicle are notable for the driver "information center" somewhere on the dash. but they won't let the owners customize or add information screen that would be useful. Instead it has become a second set of idiot lights with little more information that the idiot light themselves.

To be fair 80 to 90% of they driving public would not know what to do with the information anyway. But any skill tech would and it would save dollars in diagnostic charges at the repair shop. .......Which I guess is why automakers won't add onboard logging. It cuts into sales/profits at the service department profit center for the stealership.

Sorry venting a little, I just went through the Yaris recalls a week ago and the terrible information provided by the service department was inaccurate, misleading, and completely missed a significant low coolant issue in the expansion tank. A second trip back to the parts department for a $27 gallon of Toyota SLLC pink coolant fixed it.
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:45 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2009Toyotoad View Post
Aero mods are worth further investigation. The price of carbon fiber molding and 3D modeling or even printing has dropped significantly in the lsst year. but you need to acknowledge to trade off between added weight to the rolling mass, versus Aero effect.
You might find some spots to take dead weight away, replacing some body panels with custom-made aerodynamically-enhanced ones made out of a lighter material, modding the interior trim, whatever you'd still feel comfortable enought to trade off.

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