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Old 03-13-2014, 02:04 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mista Bone View Post
Question: What are you doing with the throttle when cutting the fuel?
Thanks. Pretty cool mod, huh? If I understand your question, the answer is "nothing." I take my foot off the pedal put the car in neutral or at least depress the clutch the instant before I cut the injectors. Engine cuts-out and I coast, with all systems on, until I choose to restart by kiss-starting with the clutch, or key starting. I get some very long glides too. On occasion I have glided with the injector switch in the off position, so there is no fuel or chance of engine start, glided in gear at WOT to generate power and move coolant and listen to the engine pump air without burning fuel... pretty weird sound. And of course, at WOT, the car will glide a little further. But I don't do that regularly because I'm afraid of wear on an engine that might not be pumping oil at that moment.

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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.



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Old 03-14-2014, 04:39 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Doesn't matter where the crankshaft is getting power from, either by combustion or gravity and through the transmission, if the crankshaft is spinning it is pumping oil.

My original idea was to use the two horn buttons or switches on back side of the steering wheel, one to kill the motor without killing power to the ECU then another to engage the starter to fire the motor back up. This would have been used at stoplights, sorta like how the Prius and Insight do now.

One issue with coasting at WOT and injectors off, you can cool the motor and cylinder walls down too much, only an issue in cooler climates. I have done the exact same thing with an overheating motor. Heater fan on full blast, letting gravity circ. the coolant, then cool air to cool the engine from inside the cylinders.
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Old 03-16-2014, 04:16 PM   #53 (permalink)
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This kill method doesn't shut off power to the cluster, right? Using the key kills the VSS signal.
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Old 03-16-2014, 05:13 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky View Post
This kill method doesn't shut off power to the cluster, right? Using the key kills the VSS signal.
That's right, I keep all functions. Everything OEM stays lit up normally, without interuption. But sometimes my ultra gauge cuts out momentarily, though without losing the continuity of the data, it seems.
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.



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Old 11-18-2014, 06:03 PM   #55 (permalink)
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ultragauge goes off

Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic View Post
I keep all functions. Everything OEM stays lit up normally, without interruption. But sometimes my ultra gauge cuts out momentarily, though without losing the continuity of the data, it seems.
Thanks much for your writeup. I finally hooked up a kill switch, which works fine as described, except the ultragauge goes off and stays off an additional 10 seconds after flipping the switch back on. Any ideas why the ultragauge goes off, and how to keep it on when using the kill switch?

Last edited by j12piprius; 11-19-2014 at 02:56 PM..
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Old 11-18-2014, 06:18 PM   #56 (permalink)
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i dont know if this would be the same on an ultragauge, but i had to tell my scangauge it was in a hybrid after i put in a kill switch, for a simmilar reason
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Old 11-18-2014, 07:37 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic View Post
But sometimes my ultra gauge cuts out momentarily, though without losing the continuity of the data, it seems.
My UG does this too without a kill switch. You get what you pay for I guess, might have been a faulty batch.
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Old 11-18-2014, 09:40 PM   #58 (permalink)
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power off detect

From the version 1.2 manual:

Quote:
Compatibility > pwr off detect mode
For most vehicles, ultragauge will correctly detect when the ignition has been switched to OFF with the default setting (0). Modes 0, 1, 2 and 4 operate the same [except] a different parameter is read from the vehicle's computer.
Update: changing the #s to 1, 2 or 4 didn't make any difference.

Last edited by j12piprius; 11-20-2014 at 03:00 PM..
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:15 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlvs2run View Post
was bump starting around 2000 rpm on my trip (which slows the car at those rpms, so I won't use it on trips anymore).
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...gine-1141.html
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Old 11-19-2014, 06:08 PM   #60 (permalink)
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power off retries

Success! Changing pwr off retries keeps the ultragauge on.

Quote:
Compatibility > pwr off retries
If ultragauge at times enters low power mode and briefly turns off the display ... increase the number of retries (5 is default) until the behavior stops. A side effect of increasing the value is that ultragauge will remain on for a longer time after the ignition is switched to off. Changing this setting to a value greater than ~45 is not recommended.
Changing the value from 5 to 33 keeps the ultragauge on for 10 seconds after the toggle (ignition) is switched off. This is plenty of time to switch the toggle back on, and then the ultragauge continues to stay on.

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