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-   -   $1,4** repair quote, need help, trans flush (https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/1-4-repair-quote-need-help-trans-flush-10294.html)

RandomFact314 09-23-2009 08:15 AM

$1,4** repair quote, need help, trans flush
 
Hey I took my car to Goodyear yesterday b/c it was making weird sounds, one of the things on the long list of broken things they gave me with the $1,400 repair quote was a trans flush... Should I do it myself? use sythetic? should I call around to find a shop to do sythetic? please give any info. I have a auto trans if you don't know...

user removed 09-23-2009 09:13 AM

Trans flush for $1400=highway robbery.

Typically around $100. Most of the work beyond hooking up the machine is done by the machine itself. Cost will vary somewhat depending on the amount of fluid your transmission requires.

You do want it completely flushed, not just drained and refilled, because in most cases the torque converter will retain the old fluid.

Is there a problem with the way your transmission is operating?

regards
Mech

bgd73 09-23-2009 09:19 AM

I used to do transmission flush all the time. get the kit to change filter and drop pan till one corner is a spout for the oil catcher. clean the pan dry rags, and the magnet.Advanced auto stores may have a recycle you can drop it there. cost 20 bucks+ fluids and oh no, getting dirty.

the benefit of seeing what going on in there is priceless. the magnet, pay attention to it, the black fluid happens first trip anyway, nothing to fret. the convertors hang onto years and years of stuff.

DonR 09-23-2009 12:12 PM

Most places that do the trans flush do not replace the filter. The influx of revitalized detergents will disolve and dislodge lots of gunk that can further clog up the filter if it isn't changed. If you do it yourself, remember by removing the trans pan you will not get all the fluid out. The torque convertor holds several quarts as well. If you are not going to change it regularly, I would change the fluid & the filter twice fairly close together.

I change mine every 2 years & never drain the torque convertor.

Don

wagonman76 09-23-2009 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonR (Post 129294)
Most places that do the trans flush do not replace the filter. The influx of revitalized detergents will disolve and dislodge lots of gunk that can further clog up the filter if it isn't changed. If you do it yourself, remember by removing the trans pan you will not get all the fluid out. The torque convertor holds several quarts as well. If you are not going to change it regularly, I would change the fluid & the filter twice fairly close together.

I change mine every 2 years & never drain the torque convertor.

Don

Right on. This happened to my friend after a trans flush, the trans repair shop that ended up fixing it confirmed it. If you're going to do a flush, at least change the filter first, or make sure they do first. And clean off the magnet if needed, this also gives you a clue to the health of the transmission. I don't know of any flush places that change the filter.

I never would recommend a flush, but that's just me. I change the fluid and filter on mine about every 50k and haven't had any problems. Besides, the owner's manual (at least none I know of) say anything about a flush, they say change the fluid and filter every so many miles.

user removed 09-23-2009 01:55 PM

My 98 Benz SLK 230 had no way to drain the fluid and no dipstick to even check the level. No recommended servicing in 100k miles. I am sure it had a pan you could drop, but most tranny filters are screens, unless they have changed them recently.

That being said, I think everyone's advice on this thread is good. Dropping the pan to see if there are any indications of future problems is good preventive maintenance. Flushing as a maintenance procedure every 30 k is also a good PM.

My point is, automatic transmissions (as represented by the Benz example) are pretty dog gone reliable and require very little maintenance under normal conditions. Driving for high mileage reduces the stresses on your auto tranny.

I had an 87 BMW that would not go out of 1st gear. It turned out to be the speed sensor, which was external and did not require any transmission removal or trear down.
Bottom line is be very careful of who you let mess with your automatic transmission, there are a lot of symptoms that can easily be misdiagnosed.

regards
Mech

RandomFact314 09-23-2009 04:11 PM

It was not $1400 for a trans flush, it was a $1400 bill, which included a trans flush, the trans flush alone was $130.....They said that it needed to be replaced b/c they tested it with a kit and it said my trans fluid was bad... Any advice on the better info?

McTimson 09-23-2009 04:39 PM

What else was on the bill?

You can easily do it yourself, you just have to decide if it's worth your time, especially since the car is apparently already going to be at the shop. If you don't want them to do it, just tell them not to.

ALS 09-23-2009 04:47 PM

$1,400? First of all are they trying to get you and the other guy to pay for their machine. These machines can be bought for under $3,000.

You never flush a transmission.
You do a fluid exchange, as others have told you.

Drop the pan and clean.
Clean or replace the filter.
Install pan and hook up up the machine to transmission lines and make sure you have at least three to four extra quarts of fluid on hand and exchange the old fluid for fresh.

The machine is really a holding tank for the new fluid and a reservoir to hold the used fluid. The fluid is transferred via the transmission internal pump.

If you do a google search on "Transmission Fluid Exchange" you will get instructions on how to do it your self.

99LeCouch 09-23-2009 04:47 PM

Goodyear shops are known for upselling lots of un-necessary items. They told my brother who lives in NY his minivan needed $1200 of repairs to pass inspection. Another shop agreed with only 2 items on their list for $300. His van drives much better after the second shop fixed some torn lower control arm bushings.

Get a second opinion.

RandomFact314 09-23-2009 05:37 PM

Well dang it... I brought my car in because it randomly makes a really loud screech noise (not like a belt noise) but it sound more like metal on metal scratch. It was making that sound randomly for a spit second about 2 times everyday, now its more like 5 times a day, still just for a spit second, I have no idea what it is but they say its the front breaks? anyone think its something different? All they said was they would resurface/replace the brake rotors and pads. btw, the sound does not only happen when I use the breaks, its completely random from what I can tell, even if im coasting in neutral down hill or something.

The bill is for left side inner and outer tie rod ends (cuz they said my steering wheel had play-which I don't really feel?), wheel alignment, 2 front disk brake service, replace break pad, resurface rotors and test drive, 2 front brake rotors <---don't understand if they are going to resurface mine??, brake fluid exchange service, disposal fee, clean & adjust rear brakes, transmission fluid exchange service remove & replace fluid via exchange machine (includes filter & gasket), & recyclable fluids disposal fee

I know, WOW... All that for 1 weird sound... If I could fix the problem for <300 I would be fine with that, would love <200 *since I just made $200 selling a friends Audi A4 for him yesterday :) cuz I'm awesome :)

ANY advice would make me really happy...keep em coming! :)

McTimson 09-23-2009 06:10 PM

Here are my suggestions:

Do the brakes yourself. It's easy, the rotors probably cost like $25 each, and the pads should cost around $25 for both front wheels. If you've never done them before, then it's good practice anyway, and to see how the system works.

Brake fluid exchange service? If your brake fluid is low, top it off... you can bleed all 4 brakes as well, which is probably all they would do anyway. That should cost less than $10, the price of a couple bottles of brake fluid.

Rear brakes - cleaning won't do anything, you can get new brake shoes, they're probably like $25 as well. The drums are probably fine, but make sure they're not scored too bad or anything.

The transmission stuff was covered above, but I would drain and refill as mentioned.

The tie rod ends are probably the expensive part...but if you don't think you need it, don't get it.

Christ 09-23-2009 06:39 PM

Ok, I'm here - calm down. :P

Brakes - do them yourself. When I started doing car repairs, I learned brakes first. The backs will probably take you a bit, but the fronts shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour for both sides. Fluid exchange is a farce, if you can use your brakes, the fluid is fine. If you notice contamination, you can replace the fluid, but you do so with a vacuum pump, and it certainly doesn't cost more than $20 or so. You can also evacuate the fluid by draining the master cylinder, then adding new fluid and bleeding the brakes individually. The new fluid will evacuate the old fluid through the bleeder valves on each wheel cylinder/caliper.

NEVER flush your transmission unless you intend to rebuild it. Ask a Chrysler technician about it - it's been widely known that most flush places don't replace the filter, and the influx of new detergents in the fluid can wipe away the little bit of clutch wear surface you have left in your transmission if it's an older transmission. (Autos have clutches too)

If you do a drain and refill, You'll need something like 15 quarts of ATF+4 transmission fluid (Don't use anything that says "Multi-vehicle" on it.) ATF+4 is a full-synthetic fluid, and is the only recommended fluid for all Chrysler vehicles. You can get it from Wally World, buy the SuperTech brand. Regardless of what anyone else tells you, it's the same thing. If it has ATF+4 on the bottle, it's not an inferior product. There is a strict licensing agreement in place for all brands of ATF+4, which requires that they use the same formula of oils.

Tie-Rods - Jack up your car by the forward jack point on one side only, and set the emergency brake. Firmly grasp the front wheel with the steering wheel in the locked position, and give it a shake back and forth. (Left to right). If you feel excess movement laterally, you need to replace your tie-rods. This is called a "shake down". You can also shake up and down, or in any direction. If you note any movement under your own force, check to see what's moving, and replace whatever is worn. Alignment techs do the same thing, they're not magicians.

If you have to replace your tie rods or tie rod ends, do it yourself. They're not the cheapest parts, but the labor is a farce as well. I believe JOBS quotes 1 hour for a tie-rod end replacement, and the job actually takes about 20 mins, if that. The hardest part for the DIY'er is to remember how many threads the tie rod ends were screwed on, and screw the new ones on the same number. It's a quick and dirty way to ensure that you won't have screwed up your alignment, and leaves your vehicle operable until you can get to an alignment shop to have the alignment done.

Lastly - request specs on all the items they're asking to replace/repair, before they do the work. They'll still have it all on file for awhile, so ask to see the alignment check's report, the fluid condition report, and any other research they've done into the operating conditions of your vehicle. If they can't provide a written, detailed report of a fault, they have no place doing the work.

99LeCouch 09-23-2009 08:08 PM

Wow, $1400 for that?!? That's maybe $200 in parts and a day's work.

Brakes: Cheap rotors, reasonably-priced pads. The pads do all the work, and the rotors will warp anyhow since OEM's love under-sizing front rotors on non-performance cars.

Transmission: Wally-world ATF+4, and hit up RockAuto for a filter kit. Drain the pan, then remove it, replace the filter, fill with fluid. Repeat the drain and fill in a week.

Tie rod ends: Rent the tool for the inners, get some PB Blaster or Deep Creep if they're really crusty, and have fun. Outer ends go bad more than inners, so do the outers first. Good time to do the brakes since they're in the way otherwise.

Adjusting rear brakes: If you can get off the drums, do so, and put some anti-seize onto the point the shoes contact the backing plate. Otherwise just put your car in reverse (in a clear, empty parking lot), and do few hard stops. This will activate the self-adjusters in the drum brakes, if your Neon has these.


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