1982 GS1100GL Aero mods
K, hey all! Droppin by to post up my 2nd project this month. First of all, I just jumped right into this one... after modding my 2011 Fiesta and just scrapping by a few more MPG's than this bike, i knew i needed to do something!! lol
SO... To work I went!! Started off buying another 4'x8' sheet of coroplast, and all done within 3-4hrs on a blistery tuesday afternoon(my back still feels it!, sunburn), had a rough idea in my head and just rolled with it. First off, i drive this thing as long as its running! in almost every weather condition possible. On to the bike... A Standard 1982 Suzuki GS1100GL (8valve DOHC, D series motor) 5speed "shafty" Air cooled.. Main focuses for the fairing: 1.Decrease drag 2.Increase stability at high speed (I am not a squid) 3.Keep me dry as much as possible (rain suit either way) 4.Keep me warm (over achieving here) 5.Keep 2-up riding capability (yup) 6. ...Forgot this one 7. ...and this one too :confused: When i bought it last summer http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...46686119_n.jpg Rebuilt carbs over winter, adjusted accordingly, a little lean on mixture screws http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...43923754_n.jpg Rebuilt forks. Changed to Superbike handlebar -6" heigt. Painted Lower fork tubes, wheel and disk rotors. Also rebuilt Break Calipers. http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...43655572_n.jpg Cut 2"x1/2" woodstock and zip-tied to points on frame for Coro anchor points.(3 points used) Cut out 22" high x 4' wide section of Coro wrapped around exhaust and engine. Once anchored with the desired bend radius, I then trimmed the opening in the front for cooling. Also trimmed away the sides for my riding position. Legs tuck just behind the panel completely getting rid of any drag from my legs, my feet stick out from underneath the panel still causing drag.(better pics below) http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...34358437_n.jpg Mounting bracket for the front for an earlier "Vetter" styled fairing. Secured with zip-ties around the forks. http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...22438045_n.jpg Cut Coro panel to be made for the "Vetter" fairing. Once anchored was then trimmed for desired shape? Used woodstock for upper anchor points again zip-tied. Yeah i could of done better:rolleyes: http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...05848683_n.jpghttp://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...24818380_n.jpghttp://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...28036860_n.jpg Got Boattail?! Ok, so heres where the fun began! No idea in the world of shape, distance or width/angles to do for this, considering it isn't(me thinks:confused:) a consistant flow from the forward fairings. Considering I wanted to continue to be able to 2-up ride. Started off by reducing weight and removed the center stand(cant get it on it anyways, not doing me any good. 145lbs vs. 660lbs=not gonna happen:p) Cut out a small belly piece to go in front of the rear tire to close that space off. http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...89467144_n.jpg Worked on the sides, little trimming needed around the shock bolt and turn signal and left over hanging under the exhaust line. http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...45778894_n.jpg Did the best i could to continue the boattail's ending point and distance beyond the rear tire. http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...29003823_n.jpg ALL FOR NOW, will finish this post once i get home from work tonight!!!! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ EDIT: O-K... Home from work, nice and soaked! Saw it comin:p So i believe ive failed at "Keeping dry":thumbup:, need to redo the front anyways for better flow/rain/water protection, as well as do a new front fender. Gettin a rooster tail from it straight up and into the helmet... So back to pics;) just a couple left... Here is a side view. A good overall look with the Mid-fairing and the length added by the tail. I'd have to say, the mid-fairing works a bit too well in dry conditions. It gets a bit warm, and my shins tell me... So I know I may need to add a couple outlets for passing air OR cut away from the front opening for better cooling. I do plan to add an Oil-cooler to it soon. Pick-n-Pull will become my friend with that project!:thumbup: http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...78543401_n.jpg And here's where the difficult part came in... I hate having it like it is, but i had to keep the tail-light the way it was and came up with a solution for my license plate to stay under the "lighted" area... Once this was done i was able to kinda work with what was left so i just added strips to the side of the light, creating a "channel" for air to flow through the 2 sections... would like to do a full height tail but will have to wait for now... http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...90988870_n.jpg I certainly don't know if this was/is a good idea. Seemed it was better than nothing. Don't quite know about the upper section, if its even needed so ill leave it for now. ALL of this work is held on by zip-ties, and can be takin off in less than 1 min... So easy on/off, just gotta keep zip-ties on me(which is a necessity for me anyways!:p) Anyways.... after 5 days and a few tanks later(w/2-up riding=15%), I've figured i've reached a 30% MPG Gain!!!! (Control) Stock ~40mpg @ 70mph = 5th @ 4100 rpm (with tuck) Faired ~53mpg @ 70mph(+/-5mph) = 5th @ ~3800 rpm (with tuck) ***I DO NOT have a WORKING Speedo!! So I cannot accurately track my miles, and I calculate Drive gear + RPM's = mph(+/-5mph with fairing)*** I have been using Google Ear*h for my distance calculations(from home to work/back + an afternoon ride with the Gf) 80% highway... I know for sure there is potential for greater numbers!:thumbup: |
You have done origami before?
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Sorry still a bit new to the whole Cd, rolling resistance, etc math and equations stuff... So one day i might actually get that info up, but its all still a work in progress.
But I did a few test rides today with a friend, learned my analog Tachometer is a little off by a 200-300 RPM's.(Reads lower) Also did some 20mi trips all Hiwy and matched speeds with him. Indicated 70mph @ 4100rpm w/fairing instead of what was mentioned above(guestimated):rolleyes: So from this new more Correct Info, my best "guess" is that w/o the fairing my previous 70mph speed was more around 4500-4600rpm... Also ran into more "normal" head/cross winds today than i have the entire previous week... At the end of the runs, I calculated ~47mpg. This leaves me to figure i must have had a cross/tailwind giving me a boost in my previous calculation. Aw well, a gain is a gain:thumbup: now to drop those RPMs down a notch:rolleyes:... Anyone have some Guru knowledge about making a better asymmetric front fairing? more like an LSR fairing, from airtech-streamlining or others. BUT with extremely basic tools and materials? I've thought about Expanding foam, and carving away whats not needed, seems best to me for a positive fiberglass mold.. any other ideas would be nice? Thanks |
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The bike has an a/t?
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OP - Just a comment about the center stand thing - They're leveraged so that very little lift and a slight rearward attitude is all that's required to put a bike on a center stand. If you practice it a few times, you'll get it. However, they're less than necessary, especially if you have stands at your disposal (or wood blocks, in your case), so good onya for getting that extra 10-15 lbs off there (provided you cut the brackets off, too.)
If you didn't cut the brackets, you can often just "jack" the rear of the bike up and slide a pin/punch through the holes that retain the center stand to use it without keeping it installed. |
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I'm guilty here of reading the comment without context, however. |
expanding foam works great for a plug if you want to make it out of fiberglass, and you will want more of a fixed fairing design like the windjammer fairings were. come to think of it, you might be able to find an old windjammer, and mod it using coroplast with pretty good results. they were made specifically to fit your bike which is a big plus.
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The RPMs won't change, the difference (with improved aerodynamics) will be the smaller amount of throttle opening at the same speed. Jay |
And quicker acceleration and longer glides in the same range of speed :)
But a MT's rpms really won't change without re-gearing. |
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Much in the same case that my Speedo cable was thrashed when i got it, it would work now and then if the cable was connected right, but still mis-read loads. This bike was sitting for a couple years so most things like this were never maintained properly... Like the "factory" fish oil used for fork fluid... Was not a fun job! Quote:
Had plans to turn into Cafe styled bike... then got side tracked from somewhere:rolleyes: for other purposes. Haha, to think of it, turning this into a cafe bike is like a hippo with an eating disorder? Just doesnt work... Quote:
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I beg to question with the mods i have done to my 2011 fiesta, I've been able to reach my 70mph rate with the engine only turning @~2900rpms then previously @3000rpms. 6sp A/T, with the system constantly matching engine to wheel speed(100% of tq to wheels at all-time) I'm pretty sure (Throttle position = X amount rpm) this is also a comparison to a FI and Carb setup? |
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Could it be that the AT/converter reaches a "lockup" state sooner, based on the effort needed by the engine to maintain a given speed? Less load= less required power= lower rpm to do the same amount of work? I know gearing and ratios are in there somewhere...;) But then what is the correlation from an up-right riding position to tucking, and gaining anywhere between 1-5mph without changing throttle position with an MT? when were talking about stock gearing/ratios... i know it should be constant regardless... but this is not what im experiencing, im experiencing a gain in speed in this instance. Maybe im just not getting IT:confused: |
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I'm not sure about the details of his specific transmission. If it's an electronic CVT with 6 "speed" settings, that would definitely change it. I somehow doubt this is the case, but it's wholly possible. I'd need to know more about his specific setup to know for sure why that happened. The other option is that potentially higher load gave a false reading on the tach by 100 RPM, or that lower load is giving a reading 100RPM lower. Without a calibrated gauge, 100 RPM is sneezable. |
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Thats what i was thinking, its not a CVT type... Green Car Congress: 6-Speed PowerShift automatic in Fiesta, Focus delivers a 10% fuel economy gain ^Just learned allot myself... EDIT: would like to know where the 2.0l 160hp engine was an option... or better a diesel. lol And the state of my current Tach on the bike is well ...less than desirable:( I still need to do allot of rewiring, and replacing cables and such, maybe just find a digital read-out and rig it in some way. |
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What the fork??? :confused:
OP was talking about a bike. A particular bike. A bike with a 5 speed m/t. Not cars, not a/ts, not regearing. Not propeller slip on cargo ships either. Unless it's been resolved and he's moving on now? |
Frank's right... we're steering away from the original topic sharply here.
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just to make things fancier...
it's a shaft driven bike right? changing gearing is not at all that simple... :( |
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Tbh, id love to have a 6th gear. or an overdrive option with this bike, if that would ever be possible. 5 gears seems just fine to me, but me thinks a taller 5th would be better all around. But dont have that kinda budget for specific mods like that. I'd be better off getting a used 250:rolleyes: On a side note, this things got some great Low end tq, beginning at 2k and ending around 3,5k rpm then seems to level off. Sorry everyone for drifting off topic. I was curious what would had been said/discussed about the comparison between an AT/MT with gearing, tq converters and the habits they might display. Became more curious about my Trans once i found that link... Why cant bikes have a system like that:thumbup: |
I guess the solution would be to crack the engine open and try to fit another 5th gear from a bigger model? (what bigger model??) :D Since you have 1000, i can't think of a bigger brother of the same engine which might have slightly different gearing...
changing wheel...: again, find one which is bigger, but plug'n'play with the shaftdrive... I swapped wheels in my previous bikes many times so I appreciate the ballpark what the chaindrive gives me. Shaft is definitely better in performance, maintenance though. :confused: transmissions... CVT? I have never heard of big enough which could handle the GS1000, but who knows... cutting it up and putting it in however makes it an absolute no go for me, specially if we consider the loss of energy in the transmission due to slippage... but theoretically I guess, this is what you thought of...? :) |
Wow did these waters ever get muddy.
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And on the Trans idea, wasn't thinking much of the CVT route, but more like the double clutch system (Powershift 6speed) the Fiesta has. No Tq converter, it just engages the gear seamlessly without loss of power to the wheels with any given speed. When its in Drive, and at a full stop since its not moving, the clutch system isnt engaged, no friction losses when idling. ON a side note, That hill assist would be nice on bikes:rolleyes: This all popped up based on the Honda Matic bikes... I'm the one drifting off topic:eek: srry bout that. |
Yamaha paper model patterns can be down loaded off the Internet. I have some pics on the bicycle photo thread in the Alternative section, one is a Windjammer style fairing cut from a 24x48 inch piece of coroplast.
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Riderofbikes
Did you consider making a special 5 gear set ? I made gears for Vetter I can make gears for you if you are interested. |
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Not to rain on the parade here, but...
If you wanted to go to that extent (making transmission gears), and were really looking for high mileage numbers, you would be better starting with a much smaller engine. Modifying an 1100cc engine to any extent to increase mileage potential isn't practical or efficient. If mileage numbers are the goal, sell the GS and get a 250 Ninja or CBR - then mod from there. Jay |
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It's like trying to make a Suburban get similar mileage to an econobox. You are starting at a significant disadvantage. If you don't need a Suburban you are way ahead by starting with a different platform before beginning any significant mods. Since we are talking about mileage, having 4 times the displacement to start with is a huge disadvantage and is not easily overcome no matter what length you go to. Jay |
so... here in the midwest, ive been able to find lots-o-parts for cheap. i know switching the stock crappy CV Carbs to flatsides, or other would improve power but would they have much affect on fuel consumption, given the engine still has to have an equal air/fuel mixture to match cc of the engine?
These Roller Bearing shaft engines are great for the Strip use if built up properly, looking to get lucky... looking to sell or trade for something along the 250-600cc range. Ride 2-up 50% of the time, so would be nice not to strain the next bike. I only bought this bike for 500 in the beginning, so ive already saved loads! |
I have to agree with this. :D
I have a motorbike, an ancient 2 smoker. There is no point in eco(what's that??) modding. :) on the other hand, I have this car, Suzuki Swift, 1.0 on lpg. Now that is something to play with. I want to put a diesel engine into the Jawa frame though, but I have problem with the transmission. :( the GS1100 frame would be able to accommodate a diesel block would it not? just get a bmw or ural gearbox, put it together with your shaft drive... :) but well, I understand if you're in love with 1.1 inline four. :D |
hzoltaan - Use a CVT pulley system and a jackshaft like snowmobiles in older times. Many have done it. DieselBike.net The Original Diesel Motorcycle website.
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I've recently been looking for a 2-3cylinder diesel to drop in for this large of bike, but no luck even at junk yards or pick-n-pull lots... I know trackers/bobcats have around 15-25hp would be more than enough for my commuting. But the ones i have found are a bit ($)$$$... its a good platform to do a swap in, but with the amount of work needed to use the existing shaft drive id need to do some major mods. Dependant it be a horizantal shaft, all ive found mostly are verical.
The swinger if needed can be easily swapped with a GS1100 chain drive unit if nothing else. I by NO means plan on making this thing reach an unpractical goal of 65+ mpg as it sits now... But maybe doing what i can to an extent reaching 50-55mpg would put me right around $3.75 a day for my 60mile commute. I'm already at a consistant (46mpg). The best part about the GS line of engine, is that most parts can be swapped. I could swap out the Topend with a GS1000 to reduce displacement. Or do smaller custom exaust and smaller jet kit as it is now. which wouldnt damper my wallet too much |
Look for an engine broker of Ag equipment such as Kubota. A 3 cyl. 700 to 900cc will fit the bill.
A good fairing system will nearly double efficiency. |
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