1999 Mazda Protege Shift Solenoid Replacement
 

I'm mostly posting this so that anyone Googling this issue might find useful info regarding shifting problems on their Protege or Focus transmission.

A friend of mine has a 1999 Mazda Protege that had an issue with not shifting into over-drive (or possibly just locking the torque converter). It would rev to about 3000 RPM at 55mph, and shift hard from 1st to 2nd gear. Additionally, the "OD Off" MIL flashed on the console, and an OBD2 code P0771 was found. The car averaged something around 20 MPG in mixed driving around Portland.

Several transmission shops quoted her at $2,500 to fix the issue, and the lowest quote was $1,200.

The code P0771 is a Mazda specific code that indicates "Shift Solenoid 'E' Stuck Off".

There was very little useful information I could find by Googling this problem, as most people are adverse to working on an automatic transmission. The most common advise was to take the vehicle to a tranny shop.

I gambled $70 on a transmission filter, pan gasket, fluid, and re-manufactured shift E solenoid. Dropping the pan, I located the shift E solenoid by the blue and black wires leading to the middle of the 3 solenoids on the passenger side of the valve body. This is contrary to the schematics that show up on a Google search that indicate solenoid E is nearest to the filter on the drivers side. Apparently the schematic is in reference to the Ford Focus transmission 4F27E, which is the same one used in the Protege, except called the FN4-EL.

The "E" solenoid for a Protege is the top, middle one, with the blue and black connector leading to it.
http://www.atkits.com/system/images/...3900_(ATK).JPG

The original shift E solenoid passed my resistance test, showing 5.4 ohms, which is the same as the remanufactured part. I lost hope in fixing the problem by replacing the solenoid when the part tested out properly, but I went ahead with replacement anyhow.

I put everything back together, filled with about 3.5 qts of transmission oil, and took it for a test drive. It worked! No codes, no OD Off MIL, no shifting issues. Best of all, the RPM dropped to 2,500 at 55 MPH.

I'll report back what MPG my friend is getting now, once she runs a couple tanks through. Hopefully people having this problem will find this thread and be able to fix their car, saving at least $1,100 in the process.

Required tools: socket wrench, crescent wrench, funnel, rags, drain pan.

Steps:

1. Loosen drain bolt with appropriate sized crescent wrench and drain fluid into a drain pan. Careful about spillage, as transmission fluid can strip paint, stain, and is generally difficult to wash off of the body.

2. Remove drain pan bolts using appropriate sized socket and wrench, and lower the pan.

3. Clean the pan, old gasket material (or reuse if the rubber one is in good shape), and donut-shaped magnet. Inspect for abnormal metal wear from bits in the pan or magnet.

4. Disconnect the blue and black wire connector and remove shift E solenoid by removing the 4 bolts that hold the retaining plate.

5. Wet the O-rings of the new solenoid with transmission fluid and install.

6. Replace the transmission filter (might as well do this while you have the pan dropped).

7. Put everything back together, being careful to torque bolts only to the required tension.

8. Fill transmission through the dip stick opening with a funnel.

9. Run engine and shift through the gears several times, checking the fluid level afterward.

Based on your diagram, can you tell me which one is the "D" solenoid?

I have the same issue and the computer said the "D" solenoid was stuck on. I have replaced a couple of the solenoids and still have the issue.

Thanks