2002 Civic starts, but won't run
 

I'm just buttoning up all the engine work I've done on the 2002 Civic LX (D17a1, 188k miles) I've been working on. I had to put a new head gasket in it.

Anyways, I'm having some difficulty getting it to run. When I key on, I hear the fuel pump turn on and back off. I then turn the key to start it, and it fires up. Then, it immediately dies. It fires for about 2 seconds, then falls on its face. I obviously have fuel and spark to start, but one of them stops shortly after. I've pushed the gas pedal down (has a throttle cable), and if I start it, it will rev up a little, but again quickly just dies. There is no sputtering or rough idle, it just clean cut dies. It will do this time after time after time, very consistent. I pulled the plugs, they were wet. I checked and there is spark on all 4 cylinders. There is no engine light, but I'm not sure its run long enough to generate any codes either.

My first thought is that it is fuel related. I'm getting fuel for the initial start up, but not after. I don't know why this would be though. I think I'll grab some starting fluid and see if I can get it to idle with starting fluid. If thats the case I know its the fuel system.

Ideas?

A friend at work agrees its fuel related. I mentioned that each time I key off and back on, the fuel pump primes again. This means I'm loosing fuel pressure in a very short amount of time.

Have you checked that the flexible tube between the MAF and throttle plate is intact?

My engine doesn't have a MAF sensor, it has MAP and air temp. They're integrated into the throttle body and air filter housing and are hooked up.

Not positive but when you crank it it gives battery power to the coil, then once it is running it goes through a resistor or it used to. If so thats your issue. Check the connections at the coil first. Could be a fuse. I'm not even sure it's done this way anymore.

regards
mech

Does your immobilizer light turn off? (the green key on your dash)

Double check that all the sensors are connected, especially the crank and cam positioning sensors. These could cause similar hard-starting issues and they were disconnected when you did the head gasket.

I have no idea on this. It has individual coil packs.

Yeah, the green light does turn off.

I'm pretty sure all the vacuum lines are hooked up. All the sensors are plugged in. I checked that last night after it didn't start the night before.

In my experience the fuel pump always primes when I key off/on. No matter how much fuel in the tank, no matter if I key off/on a couple times in a row.

This video on youtube seems to describe the same situation as yours:

watch?v=i6x31RU1S_I

In the video, the guy found that the timing belt was off by one tooth.

Yeah, that is exactly how mine acts. I guess I'll check the timing belt timing. I swear I double even triple checked it though... bleh.

I got a fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump from a friend at work. He had replaced them in his 01 Civic and had the old ones that still worked. He had issues starting once warm. I threw them in last night, no difference.

Then, I tried something that seems to verify that it is the timing belt timing. I unplugged the crankshaft position sensor and started it up. It ran rough, but it did run.

I pulled things apart and I was off one tooth on the timing. I reassembled things and fixed the ELD sensor in the car. Then it started having other issues:

Now, it won't start on its own, you have to give it some gas to get it to start. Then, you get the flashing engine light due to misfires. Eventually, I get a P0303, P0304, and P0300.

So, I pulled the plugs and 3 & 4 look normal to me, but 1 & 2 look super rich. Swapped the ignition coils around, no difference.

1, 2, 3, and 4 left to right.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1415470900


So, next up I checked the resistance of the fuel injectors. Each one is dead on 15 ohms.

So, I'm quite confused... Any ideas guys?

I would look at the timing again. Did it run ok before the headgasket?

Is there a chance that the cam position sensor is bad?

It ran just fine before the headgasket. I just had it apart and verified the timing is correct.

Its possible a sensor is bad, but I'm not getting an engine light for it. I'd assume that it would throw a code if that were the case.

Check the ground wire from the cylinder head to the radiator support. Use a DVOM to check for voltage along ground circuits.

regards
mech

If the timing is good and you're confident the headgasket was done correctly, it boils down to electrical. I agree with old mech on this one. Probably a gremlin in there somewhere. Check all connectors that were removed during the repairs, use contact cleaner if you have it.

Those plugs look like they have been in there a very long time, unless it's the photo perspective. #2 looks like the gap is closed.

I doubt that plugs alone would be the problem.

Test for spark, cranking and running. I know it wont run after cranking. You could disconnect the power signal lead from the starter and use a remote starter (push button with two leads) to start the car while another person holds the key in the crank position.
If it keeps running then start checking the ignition "on" circuit to see if it is not getting to the coils.

Start (crank) and run are two separate circuits.

In most systems the crank circuit runs direct battery voltage to the coils and after start the voltage is regulated to prevent an overcharging alternator from frying the coils.

regards
mech

Thanks for the help guys.

I'll check the grounds.

The plugs are very worn, but I don't think they are the issue. I regapped #2 before I put it back in and there was no change. I have a new set of iridiums to go in it. They were in it, and I swapped them for the coppers for troubleshooting.

I have checked for spark while cranking and its good on all 4 cylinders. I'll check while running.

Well, it turns out it was my fault. :) I did a compression test on the engine, cylinder 3 was zero. I removed the valve cover and double checked my valve adjustment. Sure enough, cylinder 3 was completely off. I think I must have done them in the wrong order or something. I readjusted it and it ran smooth as glass. I'm so happy to have that sorted out.

Thanks for the help guys!

Glad you found the problem. I figures it had to be something related to the repair. At least it didn't cost anything to fix!