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Old 01-10-2023, 04:42 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by S Keith View Post
This is not viable. The PP/PPE modules are so chemically resistant, there is nothing one can use to reliably seal the hole. Screws don't work either. While initial results can be impressive, the modules will slowly lose electrolyte and fail.
I think it could work with less electrolyte and polyolefin primer but with new modules available at great prices and the labour involved I would go with that. It was just an idea as a last resort

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P.S. I tried to cheat at getting Tech Stream, but never got it to work. I also didn't see the point in renting it for so much money every year. I miss the days when all you needed was a voltmeter and vacuum gauge.
I bought this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354015577366
The one I bought was an older version but it works. The one you have try running it in 32 or 64 bit. Also the version it's not supposed to be so try the 32 on a 64 etc. You don't always need the autokent loader

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Old 01-10-2023, 06:38 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Nathan jones View Post
I bought this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354015577366
The one I bought was an older version but it works. The one you have try running it in 32 or 64 bit. Also the version it's not supposed to be so try the 32 on a 64 etc. You don't always need the autokent loader
That looks exactly like the one I bought too. I tried it on several computers as I have a variety of them including an old Windows XP laptop that was pretty powerful in it's day. But I still couldn't get it to work.
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Old 01-11-2023, 10:21 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Try contacting the seller and running as administrator/32 bit. There's also usually a separate loader you might need but in my case it works without. If you fix a toyota group car you need it!!

For the thread guy, your car is fine, just low soc from a low charge drive cycle. The battery memory is always in the low stage. Just go easy on it
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Old 01-11-2023, 06:13 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Try contacting the seller and running as administrator/32 bit. There's also usually a separate loader you might need but in my case it works without. If you fix a toyota group car you need it!!
I tried for several months, even a year later. I just kind of gave up. The company that used to sell this particular one seems like they don't sell them anymore. It was almost 5 years ago, when I got the Avalon, when I also tried getting into Tech Stream.

So I don't attempt to fix the radio/infotainment center problems. I will have to take it to a dealer (again) to have it fixed.

When I change my brake fluid, I now reluctantly take it to a mechanic, which I hate doing since I've been scammed too many times by mechanics.

I may try it again one day. I don't know.
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Old 01-18-2023, 02:02 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Reporting back. The battery pack is holding. I am starting to see the fast battery discharge on a cold start. In the morning dr prius will show it starting around 50-60 and it will rapidly decline, sometimes to 0 and then run the engine a lot to get it back up. I have a small hill on my way to work and regen will bring it up close to "full". It will then occasional bleed charge by running the electric motor at idle. Very odd.
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Old 01-30-2023, 12:20 PM   #46 (permalink)
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It seems a local hybrid repair shop has a lithium ion option for second gen prius battery packs. Costs $3000 for battery and installation. Lipo comes with a 5 year warranty or 75,000 miles.

Their standard option is $1038 for a refurbished battery with at least 80% original capacity and a 1 year warranty. A 5 year warranty on the same battery is $2900 so essentially same price as the lipo.

https://acehybridgroup.com/product/2...-prius-hybrid/

A few other local options have packs as low as $600. This would be a refurbished pack made with blades pulled and balanced.

Electron offers the cylindrical battery packs. Anyone every gone this route? Pretty expensive.
https://electronhybridsolution.com/?...vpf-ymm-search

Hybrid2go offers reconditioned packs and a lifetime warranty options - although I've read some not so great reviews on actually making a claim on said warranty. https://hybrid2go.com/product/toyota...ion-2004-2009/ - $1300 for battery, additional $300 for lifetime warranty.
Thats crazy because batteries are said to be at end of life when they reach 80% capacity. Thats an industry standard by the way. So they are saying that they agree to give you a battery that just barely above end of life. They say that because statistically they start to conk out left and right below that.
(its fine though if its in a battery thats already installed in your car though)

I've heard a lot of crazy talk about batteries on priuses but the OEM batteries aren't that expensive and they really do last so much longer than everyone elses. I would never buy aftermarket or used vs going with a new oem toyota/panasonic battery. Thats the golden combo of reliability.
On black friday i saw a gen 3 battery from toyota online at a certain dealer and it was $1700-2100 (1700-2300 sometimes $2700) plus tax and the core charge was $40 (which is hilarious). For a gen 3 battery. It was mostly just the cells and bus bars though it didn't have most of the case or fan on this P/N. So realistically you could diy a new oem battery for $2500 bucks and it will last another decade +.

Some of the aftermarket companies are literally just slinging questionable second hand batteries that can be basically as bad as what you have, or they are trying to pass off chinese no name cells as their brand of cells which make Sanyo look great.

As far as the car goes if that 2008 Prius is in good shape I would keep that thing and put a good battery in it. They really do last forever. Batteries are more or less affected by age and cycles. So it seems like pretty much everyone makes it to 10-12 years, and its not uncommon to do 15+.

Pull the plug on you battery and take the case off the battery and inspect the bus bars for corrosion as well. Sometimes they corrode and that leads to extra resistance and the heat build up besides cells progressively dying and internally shorting and burning off energy that way as well.

For my gen 3 i noticed 6 years ago if i parked below half soc on the dash the next morning the car would start with 2 bars and get awful gas mileage until it warmed back up and got back over halfway, so I started parking above that and it would hold voltage and get much better gas mileage.

Now at this point I've learned from my scan gauge that the car really prefers to use the battery as little as possible for the best gas mileage. I pretty much just keep the car between 57-62% ish percent the whole time for max gas mileage. I've been doing that for probably 4 years now and i can still get high 50s. I more or less just use the battery to shut the engine off and coast and to keep the engine off at stop lights or scoot up at stop lights.

Also, take your brakes apart and clean the sliding pin holes out with a drill brush and brake cleaner, clean and lube your sliding pins with silicone lube. I use sli-glyde and replaced the bushing and bellows on them as well since they were old. If your pins are rusty replace them.
I do this once a year for great gas mileage. The big problem with priuses is most owners run around with partially seized sliding pins since the brake pads don't really wear out... until your brakes start seizing up and wear out.




Oh i thought it was interesting above. I turned off my reverse beep and seat belt chime with my iphone and dr prius.
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Old 01-30-2023, 01:24 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Thats crazy because batteries are said to be at end of life when they reach 80% capacity. Thats an industry standard by the way.
Nissan battery replacement warranty doesn't kick in until the battery drops to 66% or less. Not sure about other brands, but I don't believe 80% is an industry standard.
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Old 01-30-2023, 02:27 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Nissan battery replacement warranty doesn't kick in until the battery drops to 66% or less. Not sure about other brands, but I don't believe 80% is an industry standard.
I did forget about Nissan. They don't exactly exude quality though so I would be highly suspect if they changed the limit to filter out more warranty claims.

You are probably correct though. I bet my quoted figure is more or less for a certain type of chemistry and not all. (NMC)
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Old 01-30-2023, 06:24 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Thats crazy because batteries are said to be at end of life when they reach 80% capacity. Thats an industry standard by the way.
Where did you get 80%? I've heard of 70%. But 80%?

At any rate, I thought that was pertaining to an EV. In a hybrid I'm under the understanding that it's more about whether they work at all or not. A hybrid could still work with even 50% left on the battery as long as the battery isn't too resistive.
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Old 01-30-2023, 08:18 PM   #50 (permalink)
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80% is the lead-acid standard to determine "end of life." It's been carried over to other chemistries.

It is NOT relevant to NiMH in a Prius. The battery is grossly oversized for the needed function in most roles. Failures do not typically occur until the battery approaches 30-40% of rated in terms of capacity.

Providing a reconditioned battery to 80% or greater rated capacity is better than most.

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