EcoModder.com

EcoModder.com (https://ecomodder.com/forum/)
-   DIY / How-to (https://ecomodder.com/forum/diy-how.html)
-   -   2012 Ford Mustang Kill Switch How to (https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/2012-ford-mustang-kill-switch-how-23225.html)

UltArc 09-07-2012 10:51 AM

2012 Ford Mustang Kill Switch How to
 
To complete this thread so others can learn or use in the future, I have inserted the final images, and what I did.

Materials I used:
Box of fuses for the fuse you want to use (1)
PVC Piping to push wire through, and build a stand (2)
Switch for ON/OFF (3)
20' of wire (4)
Fuse Extender (5)
Two Wire to Fuse things (6)

(1) I used a 5 amp ATM, keeping the OEM fuse in the glove box with the extras, in case I need to put it to factory, or need an extra fuse. (2) I measured the feet for how far it would need to travel for me, and added two elbows. (3) Any switch will work, I have wanted to switch to a switch with the safety cap- I have one particular person who always forgets its there and cuts my engine. (4) Wire used was advised by the techs when they knew how much power would be going through. (5) To make it easier to work with, and easier to pull out. I was able to build my entire setup, and just plug it in. (6) To plug the points in.


I used the Fuel Pump fuse, but it was my third (I believe) attempt to find a fuse that worked. To know if it works, either A) attempt to start the car without the fuse in (be ready to turn the car off it won't start, don't let it try to turn over forever) or B), have the car running and pull the fuse. As a novice, by myself, and half the time testing outside of AutoZone, I opted for A.

I suggest measuring twice, and cutting once. Run your PVC, then wire the lines through. With one solid cord, run the electrical from your fuse box through the PVC, make a 6 inch or so loop on the end, then run it back. Make sure there is slack. Now double check, making sure there is only loose/extra wire, and that everything totally opens and closes. Make your cuts, then uninstall. Solder the pieces and parts together, then reinstall. Note, when the switch is soldered into place, that can not pass through the PVC since it is so much larger, and other parts also may not fit, so run your wire first, then cut and assemble.

Results: Over 3 tanks, I noted a 3.9% decrease, then the following 3 tanks a 8.42% increase, although this is when I switched to premium fuel, surely that is not the sole cause for the jump. After that other modifications were added. One issue in calculating actual performance improvement is weather changes, and year over year will be the most effective. Since I live in Ohio, a 90 degree day can easily turn into snow with lightning.


Heres the full setup completed, no in process images:

How it looks closed up
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...2/DSC_2219.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...2/DSC_2220.JPG

Fuse Panel - Note I used an extra extender thing to give me more space/room to work
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L...2/DSC_2217.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...2/DSC_2218.JPG

From Door Jam to Fuse Box
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1...2/DSC_2216.JPG

Door Jam, since firewall opening is on drivers side
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...2/DSC_2213.JPG

What the floor looks like (PVC underneath)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...2/DSC_2212.JPG

Kill Switch
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...2/DSC_2211.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f...2/DSC_2214.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...2/DSC_2210.JPG

Original Post Follows:
I absolutely love EOC. But I rarely do it because of having to turn the ignition switch to off or acc, whatever it is that kills the engine. I do bump start, so it isn't like I am wearing it out as much, but I still don't want to do more key turning than I need to. Especially if that moment of off is not counting the brief miles.

Looking at the how tos on here, I haven't seen a clear name for the diagram. I have looked at four or five threads on here, but it still isn't totally clear to me. Also, I haven't been able to find a map of the wiring online at all, by schematic, fuel injector, fi, wiring, electric.

In addition, I have a six year warranty on my car, or 100,000 miles. I will be inspected, and if I do something that could be the cause, my claim may not be approved.
-------
So my situation. Is there anyway one can use a fuse instead of cutting wires? Or does anyone have any other suggestions for what to look up, resources, or any pointers? I hate to make ANOTHER thread on this, and I have done research, but I have found nothing for it. If anyone has any input, please let me know.

baldlobo 09-08-2012 01:50 AM

since it's a brand new car; the service manual probably won't be online yet.

look around the pdc under the hood and the interior fuse panel. your looking for anything to do with fuel and ignition or the theft deterrent relay. just hope it's not wired like an import(re-read that as 20 things on 1 fuse).

Weather Spotter 09-08-2012 07:17 AM

How similar is the car to the 2011 and 2010 models? if its just a minor change the wiring is likely to be the same. so look up those years.

many GM cars have a fuse in the box for "ignition" or "injectors". see if you can find that one and then you can add a switch inline to that fuse.

JRMichler 09-11-2012 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weather Spotter (Post 326669)
many GM cars have a fuse in the box for "ignition" or "injectors". see if you can find that one and then you can add a switch inline to that fuse.

That's exactly what I did for my kill switch. I took a spare fuse, carved away excess plastic, cut the fuse wire, soldered leads onto the terminals, and potted the solder connections with Bondo. If I need to remove it, I need only pull the connector, and replace with a stock fuse.

Miller88 09-13-2012 10:52 AM

It's going to set the check engine light. If the engine ever needs work under warranty, the first thing the dealer is going to do is pull the codes. If they notice that it has a lot of codes for fuel injector failure ...

baldlobo 09-13-2012 11:26 AM

no, not if you go through the fuses or the anti-theft relay it shouldn't.

btw. if your jeep is anything like mine you have a fuse that cuts both fuel and ign in the pdc under the hood(i haven't gotten any cels)

ksa8907 09-13-2012 12:25 PM

chysler uses an ASD (automatic shutdown relay) that, under normal conditions allows the engine to run, if it loses the crank sensor (engine won't know when to fire) it kills the injectors and coils. i assume most all cars will have something similar.

also, to maintain your warranty, it may be helpful to buy an extra wiring harness of whatever you might need to cut.

Weather Spotter 09-13-2012 07:23 PM

do not cut any thing, use a fuse jumper/ doubler from an auto parts store ~$5 and then use that to sodder in your relay (take one side of fuse plug and run that to the NC relay (and to the switch), then back from the output side of the NC relay back to the fuse holder (put an inline fuse some place in there). take the other side of the switch to the contacts of the relay. the other side of the relay goes to ground. that what I did for my brothers Kia soul.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...elp-22975.html

Miller88 09-15-2012 12:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baldlobo (Post 327680)
no, not if you go through the fuses or the anti-theft relay it shouldn't.

btw. if your jeep is anything like mine you have a fuse that cuts both fuel and ign in the pdc under the hood(i haven't gotten any cels)

I don't use it for EoC, but I use it for anti theft.

UltArc 09-15-2012 09:35 AM

You guys are very helpful. Monday and Tuesday are my first days off, that is when I am getting in and getting started.

JRMichler 09-16-2012 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baldlobo (Post 327680)
no, not if you go through the fuses or the anti-theft relay it shouldn't.

My kill switch cuts the circuit through the fuel injector fuse. I use the switch about 110 to 150 times per week, and it sets the CEL about 2 or 3 times per week.

I get one of two codes. One is for the fuel injectors, the other is for the gas gauge sending unit.

bestclimb 09-17-2012 04:01 PM

get a cheap code scanner ultra or scan gauge. clear the codes before taking it to the dealer.

UltArc 09-27-2012 01:59 AM

Sincerely, thank you everyone for the help. Each day off it rains, and I do not attempt to develop a plan. Since my tank of extreme EOC went awfully bad, I am not EOCing right now. After my oil change and FE comes back up, I may resume it, and work on the switch.

As of now, EOC switch is on pause. I will update on any future info.

UltArc 04-05-2013 11:45 PM

I have recently been actively EOCing, but am so tired of flipping they key-and missing out on miles I am traveling, but not getting credit for. So I installed a kill switch, specifically for a fuse- but it did not work. I pulled the fuse, and the car kept running.

THis is the user manual, page 231 starts fuse labels.
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pub.../12musog2e.pdf

If anyone has any suggestions or ideas, please let me know. I have looked, but I have to buy new fuses for it, so I do not accidentally ruin my current fuse, and walk to get more. SO, I want to buy them first, then do the test.

Thank you in advance for the continued support.

Weather Spotter 04-06-2013 10:22 AM

I (we) cannot get at the manual. can you copy it into a post?

see if the manual lists the wire going to the fuel injectors, then put the relay into that wire. thats what I did as most newer cars have several things on the same fuse that runs the injectors. Things like fuel pump (you can burn it out with over cycling) so try to find the wires to the injectors. there might be one in the fuse panel. my bothers kia had a separate one but my matrix did not.

UltArc 04-07-2013 12:29 AM

Driver rear window (convertible only) Not used (spare)
SYNC��
Passenger rear window (convertible only) Brake transmission shift interlock (BTSI) Turn signals, Hazard flashers
Left low beam headlamp Right low beam headlamp Courtesy lamps
Switch illumination Security module
Power mirrors Not used (spare)
Center information display, Electronic finish panel, GPS
Climate control
Not used (spare)
Power door locks, Trunk release Not used (spare)
Navigation amp
Diagnostic connector
Fog lamps
Park lamps, License lamps
High beam headlamps
Horn
Demand lighting (battery saver), Gauge pack, Visor vanity lamps
Cluster (battery)
Ignition switch feed
Audio mute (start)
Camera (run/start)

Circuit Breaker Relay
Temperature sensor motor
Restraints control module (RCM)
Reverse parking aid
Not used (spare)
Electronic stability control
Auxiliary body module (ABM) run/start Passive anti-theft system (PATS)
Not used (spare)
Not used (spare)
Radio/Navigation
Not used (spare)
Accessory delay (windows, automatic dimming rear view mirror [including microphone and compass] and door switch III)
Not used (spare)
Heated seat relay coils
Not used (spare)
Wiper relay and module, Blower relay Passenger airbag deactivation indicator (PADI), Occupant classification sensor (OCS) Not used (spare)
Accessory delay relay (windows, automatic dimming rear view mirror [including microphone and compass] and door switch III)


Passenger compartment fuse panel Not used
Not used
Blower motor relay
Powerpoint (body)
Rear defroster
Cooling fan relay
Anti-lock brake system (ABS) pump Wipers


20A** Fuel pump relay (non-Shelby) 25A** Fuel pump relay (Shelby only)
— Not used
10A** Intercooler pump relay (Shelby only) 20A** Heated seats
10A** Alternator sense
20A* Auxiliary body module (ABM) 30A* Starter relay
30A* Rear amplifier (Shaker 1000 radio) 30A* Powertrain relay
20A* Powerpoint (instrument panel)
10A** Powertrain control module (PCM) keep-alive power
10A** Brake on/off (BOO) power
10A** A/C compressor relay
20A** Left high intensity discharge headlamp relay 20A** Right high intensity discharge headlamp relay
— Not used
30A* Passenger front window
— Not used
30A* Passenger power seat
30A* Driver power seat
30A* Front amplifier (Shaker 500 radio) 30A* Driver front window motor
40A* Convertible top motor
Diode Fuel diode — Not used
15A** Fuel injectors (Shelby only) 5A** Rear defroster coil (run/start)


Auxiliary relay with heated seats (if equipped)
On heated seat equipped vehicles, there is a relay box located under the driver seat containing two relays for the driver and passenger heated seats.
236
2012 05+ Mustang (197) Owners Guide, 2nd Printing USA (fus)
15A** G8VA relay G8VA relay G8VA relay — 5A** 5A**
15A** 15A** 15A**
Full ISO relay
Full ISO relay
Full ISO relay
Full ISO relay
Full ISO relay
Full ISO relay
High current relay
Full ISO relay
PCM vehicle power 4 – ignition coil Fuel pump relay
Intercooler pump relay (Shelby only) A/C compressor relay
Not used (spare) PCM run/start
PCM vehicle power 3 – general powertrain components
PCM vehicle power 1 Mass air flow sensor
PCM vehicle power 2 – emissions related powertrain components
Cooling fan relay (high)
Blower motor relay
Starter relay
Rear defroster relay
Front wiper relay
Cooling fan relay (low)
Fuel pump sensor (Shelby only) PCM relay
Not used (Spare)

I tried a few methods, but this was the best I could do. The only fuel injector fuse is only in effect on the Shelby, unfortunately. I was trying to avoid using a relay, I set it up to replace just a mini fuse. I was tinking the PATS might be the next best, but that may only stop starting-not ignition in the engine. I can't refind the forum and post that gave me my first attempt.

Weather Spotter 04-07-2013 07:13 AM

have you tried this one:
15A** Fuel injectors (Shelby only)

or :
PCM vehicle power 4 – ignition coil Fuel pump relay? the issue with this one is that it cuts the fuel pump as well, this can lead to a long restart wait as fuel pressure is built back up. I would try to find the split to the fuel injectors alone and put the relay in there.

Engine kill switch - EcoModder

JRMichler 04-07-2013 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weather Spotter (Post 365462)
PCM vehicle power 4 ignition coil Fuel pump relay? the issue with this one is that it cuts the fuel pump as well, this can lead to a long restart wait as fuel pressure is built back up. I would try to find the split to the fuel injectors alone and put the relay in there.

I THINK that a momentary contact kill switch would work here. Hold the switch long enough for the engine to coast to a stop, then release. Once released, the fuel pump should restart and pressurize the fuel system so everything is ready to go when bump started.

UltArc 04-14-2013 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRMichler (Post 365506)
I THINK that a momentary contact kill switch would work here. Hold the switch long enough for the engine to coast to a stop, then release. Once released, the fuel pump should restart and pressurize the fuel system so everything is ready to go when bump started.

100% Successful so far. Only used about five times at this point, but it's working flawlessly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weather Spotter (Post 365462)
have you tried this one:
15A** Fuel injectors (Shelby only)

or :
PCM vehicle power 4 ignition coil Fuel pump relay? the issue with this one is that it cuts the fuel pump as well, this can lead to a long restart wait as fuel pressure is built back up. I would try to find the split to the fuel injectors alone and put the relay in there.

Engine kill switch - EcoModder

The Shelby only is only for the Shelby...now I wouldn't mind a supercharged 5.8, but it's a little more than my six lol

I did get it working with another fuse. At this point, it is working great. My only concern is it shifting out of the spot, and the connections not being secure.

UltArc 04-14-2013 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bestclimb (Post 328482)
get a cheap code scanner ultra or scan gauge. clear the codes before taking it to the dealer.

I use both at the moment.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRMichler (Post 328280)
My kill switch cuts the circuit through the fuel injector fuse. I use the switch about 110 to 150 times per week, and it sets the CEL about 2 or 3 times per week.

I get one of two codes. One is for the fuel injectors, the other is for the gas gauge sending unit.

Each use sets off my UG, but no codes yet. As soon as I flip the switch back everything goes to normal, no CEL yet.

jedi_sol 08-11-2013 04:47 AM

Since you are using the fuel pump fuse, does the fuel cut off instantly? Or does it take a few seconds to shut off?

I tried cutting the fuel pump on my old Honda, but it ended up taking approx 7seconds until the fuel completely cut off.

UltArc 08-11-2013 04:11 PM

Depends on RPMs, if its a quick burst, and I am at 5k or so, 7 seconds sounds right lol, but my normal range (700-1200) takes no more than two seconds from flipping to zero.


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:58 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com