2012 Ford Mustang Kill Switch How to
To complete this thread so others can learn or use in the future, I have inserted the final images, and what I did.
Materials I used: Box of fuses for the fuse you want to use (1) PVC Piping to push wire through, and build a stand (2) Switch for ON/OFF (3) 20' of wire (4) Fuse Extender (5) Two Wire to Fuse things (6) (1) I used a 5 amp ATM, keeping the OEM fuse in the glove box with the extras, in case I need to put it to factory, or need an extra fuse. (2) I measured the feet for how far it would need to travel for me, and added two elbows. (3) Any switch will work, I have wanted to switch to a switch with the safety cap- I have one particular person who always forgets its there and cuts my engine. (4) Wire used was advised by the techs when they knew how much power would be going through. (5) To make it easier to work with, and easier to pull out. I was able to build my entire setup, and just plug it in. (6) To plug the points in. I used the Fuel Pump fuse, but it was my third (I believe) attempt to find a fuse that worked. To know if it works, either A) attempt to start the car without the fuse in (be ready to turn the car off it won't start, don't let it try to turn over forever) or B), have the car running and pull the fuse. As a novice, by myself, and half the time testing outside of AutoZone, I opted for A. I suggest measuring twice, and cutting once. Run your PVC, then wire the lines through. With one solid cord, run the electrical from your fuse box through the PVC, make a 6 inch or so loop on the end, then run it back. Make sure there is slack. Now double check, making sure there is only loose/extra wire, and that everything totally opens and closes. Make your cuts, then uninstall. Solder the pieces and parts together, then reinstall. Note, when the switch is soldered into place, that can not pass through the PVC since it is so much larger, and other parts also may not fit, so run your wire first, then cut and assemble. Results: Over 3 tanks, I noted a 3.9% decrease, then the following 3 tanks a 8.42% increase, although this is when I switched to premium fuel, surely that is not the sole cause for the jump. After that other modifications were added. One issue in calculating actual performance improvement is weather changes, and year over year will be the most effective. Since I live in Ohio, a 90 degree day can easily turn into snow with lightning. Heres the full setup completed, no in process images: How it looks closed up https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...2/DSC_2219.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...2/DSC_2220.JPG Fuse Panel - Note I used an extra extender thing to give me more space/room to work https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L...2/DSC_2217.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...2/DSC_2218.JPG From Door Jam to Fuse Box https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1...2/DSC_2216.JPG Door Jam, since firewall opening is on drivers side https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...2/DSC_2213.JPG What the floor looks like (PVC underneath) https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...2/DSC_2212.JPG Kill Switch https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...2/DSC_2211.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f...2/DSC_2214.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...2/DSC_2210.JPG Original Post Follows: I absolutely love EOC. But I rarely do it because of having to turn the ignition switch to off or acc, whatever it is that kills the engine. I do bump start, so it isn't like I am wearing it out as much, but I still don't want to do more key turning than I need to. Especially if that moment of off is not counting the brief miles. Looking at the how tos on here, I haven't seen a clear name for the diagram. I have looked at four or five threads on here, but it still isn't totally clear to me. Also, I haven't been able to find a map of the wiring online at all, by schematic, fuel injector, fi, wiring, electric. In addition, I have a six year warranty on my car, or 100,000 miles. I will be inspected, and if I do something that could be the cause, my claim may not be approved. ------- So my situation. Is there anyway one can use a fuse instead of cutting wires? Or does anyone have any other suggestions for what to look up, resources, or any pointers? I hate to make ANOTHER thread on this, and I have done research, but I have found nothing for it. If anyone has any input, please let me know. |
since it's a brand new car; the service manual probably won't be online yet.
look around the pdc under the hood and the interior fuse panel. your looking for anything to do with fuel and ignition or the theft deterrent relay. just hope it's not wired like an import(re-read that as 20 things on 1 fuse). |
How similar is the car to the 2011 and 2010 models? if its just a minor change the wiring is likely to be the same. so look up those years.
many GM cars have a fuse in the box for "ignition" or "injectors". see if you can find that one and then you can add a switch inline to that fuse. |
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It's going to set the check engine light. If the engine ever needs work under warranty, the first thing the dealer is going to do is pull the codes. If they notice that it has a lot of codes for fuel injector failure ...
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no, not if you go through the fuses or the anti-theft relay it shouldn't.
btw. if your jeep is anything like mine you have a fuse that cuts both fuel and ign in the pdc under the hood(i haven't gotten any cels) |
chysler uses an ASD (automatic shutdown relay) that, under normal conditions allows the engine to run, if it loses the crank sensor (engine won't know when to fire) it kills the injectors and coils. i assume most all cars will have something similar.
also, to maintain your warranty, it may be helpful to buy an extra wiring harness of whatever you might need to cut. |
do not cut any thing, use a fuse jumper/ doubler from an auto parts store ~$5 and then use that to sodder in your relay (take one side of fuse plug and run that to the NC relay (and to the switch), then back from the output side of the NC relay back to the fuse holder (put an inline fuse some place in there). take the other side of the switch to the contacts of the relay. the other side of the relay goes to ground. that what I did for my brothers Kia soul.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...elp-22975.html |
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You guys are very helpful. Monday and Tuesday are my first days off, that is when I am getting in and getting started.
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I get one of two codes. One is for the fuel injectors, the other is for the gas gauge sending unit. |
get a cheap code scanner ultra or scan gauge. clear the codes before taking it to the dealer.
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Sincerely, thank you everyone for the help. Each day off it rains, and I do not attempt to develop a plan. Since my tank of extreme EOC went awfully bad, I am not EOCing right now. After my oil change and FE comes back up, I may resume it, and work on the switch.
As of now, EOC switch is on pause. I will update on any future info. |
I have recently been actively EOCing, but am so tired of flipping they key-and missing out on miles I am traveling, but not getting credit for. So I installed a kill switch, specifically for a fuse- but it did not work. I pulled the fuse, and the car kept running.
THis is the user manual, page 231 starts fuse labels. http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pub.../12musog2e.pdf If anyone has any suggestions or ideas, please let me know. I have looked, but I have to buy new fuses for it, so I do not accidentally ruin my current fuse, and walk to get more. SO, I want to buy them first, then do the test. Thank you in advance for the continued support. |
I (we) cannot get at the manual. can you copy it into a post?
see if the manual lists the wire going to the fuel injectors, then put the relay into that wire. thats what I did as most newer cars have several things on the same fuse that runs the injectors. Things like fuel pump (you can burn it out with over cycling) so try to find the wires to the injectors. there might be one in the fuse panel. my bothers kia had a separate one but my matrix did not. |
Driver rear window (convertible only) Not used (spare)
SYNC Passenger rear window (convertible only) Brake transmission shift interlock (BTSI) Turn signals, Hazard flashers Left low beam headlamp Right low beam headlamp Courtesy lamps Switch illumination Security module Power mirrors Not used (spare) Center information display, Electronic finish panel, GPS Climate control Not used (spare) Power door locks, Trunk release Not used (spare) Navigation amp Diagnostic connector Fog lamps Park lamps, License lamps High beam headlamps Horn Demand lighting (battery saver), Gauge pack, Visor vanity lamps Cluster (battery) Ignition switch feed Audio mute (start) Camera (run/start) Circuit Breaker Relay Temperature sensor motor Restraints control module (RCM) Reverse parking aid Not used (spare) Electronic stability control Auxiliary body module (ABM) run/start Passive anti-theft system (PATS) Not used (spare) Not used (spare) Radio/Navigation Not used (spare) Accessory delay (windows, automatic dimming rear view mirror [including microphone and compass] and door switch III) Not used (spare) Heated seat relay coils Not used (spare) Wiper relay and module, Blower relay Passenger airbag deactivation indicator (PADI), Occupant classification sensor (OCS) Not used (spare) Accessory delay relay (windows, automatic dimming rear view mirror [including microphone and compass] and door switch III) Passenger compartment fuse panel Not used Not used Blower motor relay Powerpoint (body) Rear defroster Cooling fan relay Anti-lock brake system (ABS) pump Wipers 20A** Fuel pump relay (non-Shelby) 25A** Fuel pump relay (Shelby only) — Not used 10A** Intercooler pump relay (Shelby only) 20A** Heated seats 10A** Alternator sense 20A* Auxiliary body module (ABM) 30A* Starter relay 30A* Rear amplifier (Shaker 1000 radio) 30A* Powertrain relay 20A* Powerpoint (instrument panel) 10A** Powertrain control module (PCM) keep-alive power 10A** Brake on/off (BOO) power 10A** A/C compressor relay 20A** Left high intensity discharge headlamp relay 20A** Right high intensity discharge headlamp relay — Not used 30A* Passenger front window — Not used 30A* Passenger power seat 30A* Driver power seat 30A* Front amplifier (Shaker 500 radio) 30A* Driver front window motor 40A* Convertible top motor Diode Fuel diode — Not used 15A** Fuel injectors (Shelby only) 5A** Rear defroster coil (run/start) Auxiliary relay with heated seats (if equipped) On heated seat equipped vehicles, there is a relay box located under the driver seat containing two relays for the driver and passenger heated seats. 236 2012 05+ Mustang (197) Owners Guide, 2nd Printing USA (fus) 15A** G8VA relay G8VA relay G8VA relay — 5A** 5A** 15A** 15A** 15A** Full ISO relay Full ISO relay Full ISO relay Full ISO relay Full ISO relay Full ISO relay High current relay Full ISO relay PCM vehicle power 4 – ignition coil Fuel pump relay Intercooler pump relay (Shelby only) A/C compressor relay Not used (spare) PCM run/start PCM vehicle power 3 – general powertrain components PCM vehicle power 1 Mass air flow sensor PCM vehicle power 2 – emissions related powertrain components Cooling fan relay (high) Blower motor relay Starter relay Rear defroster relay Front wiper relay Cooling fan relay (low) Fuel pump sensor (Shelby only) PCM relay Not used (Spare) I tried a few methods, but this was the best I could do. The only fuel injector fuse is only in effect on the Shelby, unfortunately. I was trying to avoid using a relay, I set it up to replace just a mini fuse. I was tinking the PATS might be the next best, but that may only stop starting-not ignition in the engine. I can't refind the forum and post that gave me my first attempt. |
have you tried this one:
15A** Fuel injectors (Shelby only) or : PCM vehicle power 4 – ignition coil Fuel pump relay? the issue with this one is that it cuts the fuel pump as well, this can lead to a long restart wait as fuel pressure is built back up. I would try to find the split to the fuel injectors alone and put the relay in there. Engine kill switch - EcoModder |
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I did get it working with another fuse. At this point, it is working great. My only concern is it shifting out of the spot, and the connections not being secure. |
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Since you are using the fuel pump fuse, does the fuel cut off instantly? Or does it take a few seconds to shut off?
I tried cutting the fuel pump on my old Honda, but it ended up taking approx 7seconds until the fuel completely cut off. |
Depends on RPMs, if its a quick burst, and I am at 5k or so, 7 seconds sounds right lol, but my normal range (700-1200) takes no more than two seconds from flipping to zero.
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