Aeromods!
 

Ok. So I have been reading on here about several styles of fender fairings and belly pans for aeromods. First I am unsure where to really start with this because I see so many materials being used and places to mount them. I am trying to keep my 2010 Insight semi appealing to the eye. My grille block has been painted to match the car and I would like to do the same for fender fairings. Just not sure what material to start with. Also not sure if moon caps would snap onto the rim of the alloy wheels as well as steel rims (I have alloy).

I am sure I will have many more questions aerodynamically speaking just trying to knock the big ones off now. My insight has been getting in the high 50's for mpg but there will always ben room for improvement even if its mostly city driving.

For experimentation, get some non-residue 3M duct tape. Leaves no gunk behind when removed. Sorry that's all I have now but it might be a start.

Not sure if it'll help you or not, but I've tested double-sided carpet tape (at the hardware store) on my S10 and it peels off easily with no residue. But that was the grill, and the tape on the body was only on for ~6 hours.

The stuff is strong too, basically double sided duct tape.

You have to remove a Moon caps to check the tire pressure, I would think the snap-on would loosen eventually if they fit at all. Maybe you could find a way to trade down to steel rims at little or no cost.

Once you have steel rims you could use Dzus fasteners:
Installing Moon Discs

I have been looking into trading my alloys for the steel rims, can't find any as a set. But I have some Lexan a dremel tool so I'll figure something out this weekend. Doesn't have to look great on the first go around so if it works I'll try something that looks better.

The "best" setup I've seen on Moon caps is the setup where one drills and taps the alloy rims for the 3 mounting screws. You can then drill the cap for the valve stem. A close second, and less damaging, would be to use steel wheels.

Undertrays do a lot of good, don't show, and can be removed when you sell. You can use inexpensive coroplast in the middle. I prefer aluminum in the front and around any exhaust parts.

The right side mirror can be removed legally in some states, and that makes a small difference.

Rear fender skirts could be made of coroplast and painted with Krylon Plastic paint, or of aluminum and professionally painted at a body shop. Use cardboard first to make and trim a template to size and shape. Saves material ;)

The nut is always the most important element in fuel economy!

If you're doing mostly city driving weight is probably more important than aero and I would keep the alloys. They're probably pretty good with aero from the factory, as well.

You can try getting a scrap (extra) bumper to do mods to, or build an aluminum bracket structure that bolts into existing holes. Make sure you separate the aluminum from any steel.

I would start with a lower grill block and covering the large holes in the front bumper cover if possible. If you use a semi flexible yet hard plastic sheet to cut covers out of you could prime and color match paint your ad ons. I have seen members on this site who make carbon fiber fill in panels that look as good as they function.

You can silicone or use a 3m adhesive to "stick the fill panels on,totally reversible that way.

I have already done the lower grille block. I used Lexan and some silicone and color matched it and it turned out pretty well. Most people don't know its there unless I point it out. I was going to do the same thing on the rear fender skirts but just havn't gotten to it yet. I am almost tempted to take it to a body shop and see if they can fabricate something from aluminum to essentially look stock, but I know that would cost a pretty penny. As far as the under tray I am still trying to figure that one out. where to mount it, how to mount it and so on. I don't think I will be able to do the moon cap thing right now for sheer fact that I can't find steelies in my price range and I won't drill my wheels. But having removed over 75lbs from the car adding a solar panel to keep my 12V charged so the hybrid pack doesn't need to strain so much and the grille block I've been in the high 50's so I can't complain for a 12 mile city commute to work.