Air Dam
I am interested in installing an undertray and my car has a factory air dam/chin spoiler. What is the best approach when installing and undertray here? Remove the factory piece and tuck the undertray up under the bumper skin, or tie into the factory piece?
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I guess it depends on what vehicle you are trying to mod. ;)
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Whatever you do should be bullet-proof. My son's SRT-8 came with a factory partial pan under the engine. The front drooped, caught air and tore itself off. And that was a factory part.
I think it comes down to whether it needs to be removable for engine service. Maybe a C-channel to catch the front edge, held forward by the fasteners elsewhere? |
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What do you plan on making your under tray out of? If using coroplast you could use self tapping screws on the front carriage and cut out an access port to get to the oil pan plug. It also depends on how far you plan on letting the under tray extend from the front air dam.
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You will need to account fer frame flex. I don't think the C channel will hold up as well as you think it should. Also, the shower panels (FRP) will not perform well in a horizontal position and requires close spacing fer the support rails. The 4x8 panels easily weigh in about 30lbs. ;)
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BamZipPow -- But if the C-channel just holds the edge and there are fasteners right behind it to hold the panel up, isn't it just a matter of sizing the parts? Especially if it is protected by the airdam?
For the material, my vote is for PolyMetal™. It has the strength of 5/8" plywood and 1/10th the weight. It's more expensive than plywood though. Quote:
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I can shape the FRP panels with my heat gun if that has anything to say about the working temp. Also, FRP will shatter/fracture when impacted without any support behind it. ;) |
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Edit: Oops, crossposted. ==> POLYMETAL! |
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I have a full belly pan the entire length of the car on my Insight. I used a scrap metal sign under the engine, and I tucked it in under the bumper and screwed self-tapping screws through the bumper, the metal piece, and a piece of 5/4" deck wood behind it to get a solid fit. Everything behind that is coroplast "pallet liner" that I got for 2 bucks a piece, and overlapped from back to front using self-tapping screws, except for the area under the cat, where I used aluminum. The entire thing cost me 24 bucks, and so far it has been rock-solid. |
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Home Depot
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