For all you EOCers: after a cold start when do YOU start EOCing?
 

I start once the engine is idling normally, when the cold engine enrichment mode is finished.

When preheating with my block heater, I start the engine at 115F on a 50F morning, and it takes about 30 seconds of running before it is idling normally.

When starting cold at work from 70F, it takes about a minute for the coolant to reach 100F and the engine to idle normally.

In the Black Widow I would start EOCing within a hundred yards of my driveway, where the first stop sign is.
It's easier to re-start with a warm engine of course, but hey, gas is gas and if the motor isn't on you aren't burning any.

Define 'fully warmed up'.

I'll first engine off once the coolant hits it's normal spot, plus a few km. I don't want more cold starts than necessary.

My Fiat has auto stop start and will switch of once the coolant reaches about 60*C, which is a bit low for my liking so I leave stop start off until 88*C (normal coolant temp).

In either case the engine won't be fully up to temp for many more miles.

EOC is more optimal than burning gas at any temp.

Except in the winter. Heat coming out of the vents is more optimal then.

As soon as I reach the crest of the hill ~100 yards from my driveway. If you want good mileage, EOC is even more important at the start, because the ecu is programmed to burn extra fuel to warm up faster.

I guess 'warmed up' can be broken into two levels: 'Operating Temperature' and "Fully Warmed Up', which are two different things.

Operating Temperature - thermostat opening temperature, which is 177F on my car, normal for a 180F thermostat in cooler ambient temperatures

Fully Warmed Up - thermostat opening temperature plus half an hour (or maybe an hour?); the time it takes for the engine oil to be fully warmed up and all the residual water/hydrocarbon vapours to be fully boiled off.

+1. To me comfort from the cold outweights a few MPG.

In winter, I often don't reach "operating temperature", even after 10 miles. I employ the DWG technique.

Driving with gloves.

Does Texas really get that cold?

They think 40 is cold.

I start when my UG reports 120 deg on coolant temp (there's a blue light on the Subaru dash that turns 'off' when the temp gets to 120 - supposed to indicate that it's OK to drive normally). Tstat regulates at 190.

BTW, does anyone know or have any thoughts on whether a 'bump' start at sub warmed-up temperatures is less 'damaging' to the engine than a normal electric re-start?

:p

We got down to 16F this past winter.

I also don't use AC in summer. I know a thing or two about THAT.

My first EOC in the Black Widow (100 yards from my driveway) always ended in a fifth gear bump start at 5 mph at the stop sign (granted there was an upcoming opening in traffic). I didn't notice any extra wear and tear bump starting from cold, but then again, my car was an old beater that lived for abuse!

They are both the same...ish. Keep in mind that damage that is allegedly caused by cold starts is caused by lack of lube for the first half second. If you start a cold engine and shut it off right away, there will be plenty of lube there for your bump start after EOCing. I have seen engines run for 10 minutes without oil in them. Half a second during cold startup is nothing.

I really don't buy the talk that cold starts is a huge wear issue. This seems to be a myth propagated by synthetic oil companies a few years back, aka.."use our amazing oil to avoid cold start damage." When most engines last >300K miles these days, who really cares about cold start damage anyway?

Hey, hey, 40 IS cold! (from Norcal lol)

I noticed in my parents' new Porsche, the stop-start system will engage at 160F coolant temp, oil temp seems to not matter. The cold idle speed is only barely over 1000rpm though, unlike my Toyota which will idle at 1600rpm when cold.

I think it may have to do with the claimed electric oil pump though. I'm guessing it's a secondary pump to add pressure at low speeds since the oil pressure is very much rpm dependent.

I don't EOC generally, but I do shut off the engine if there's more than 15 seconds that it needs to idle (and I have no passengers), however I haven't done that with a cold engine before, but maybe I should considering how much fuel it burns idling at 1600. Plus, my 1ZZ is more likely to be "totalled" from the oil control rings than anything else.

And the manufacturers of both the oil and the cars just get better and better. There's a lot of oil left inside the engine, just a microscopic film really but it's enough, to keep things from sticking together for those first few revs at startup. Add in the manufacturers' ongoing quest for friction reduction inside the engine through geometry and coatings and I think we're about ready to put the old "cold starts kill engines" truism to rest.

My engine is fully warned up when it is idling normally. I key start since my front motor mount is weak and my engine has quite a bit of compression it seems.