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-   -   Anyone else have problems with eps? (https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/anyone-else-have-problems-eps-4218.html)

dann_04 07-31-2008 03:22 PM

Anyone else have problems with eps?
 
Hi, i have a 2003 civic si with electronic power steering. It is great because there is no pully to steal power from the engine and it only causes more load on the alternator when being used. But my problem is that when i eoc and have to turn, it first turns like no power steering which is fine, but after i put a certain amount of force on the wheel, it abruptly kicks in and causes some serious issues with trying to perform nice controlled turns. It's like you have 10lbs of resistance till you get to 1/4 turn and then 0lbs resistance in a split second. Very hard not to jerk the car really bad in the direction of the turn. Anyone else have these issues? It's nice afterwards because the power steering stays on and turns are as easy as with the car on. Just curious if there is someway to disable it while the car is off or maybe if you only put a certain amount of force on it it doesn't engage? I don't want to eoc into turns anymore because of it, but it's great for getting to work and i turn it off and coast into the lot and then into a spot.

Also forgot to mention, sometimes when eoc'ing to a stop and i start to use the brakes, my anti-lock brakes have been kicking in on dry pavement, but only with the engine off, any ideas?

Edit: Yes i do turn it back to on after killing the engine

Daox 07-31-2008 03:29 PM

You turn your ignition back to "On" or "Run" once you engine off, right?

MetroMPG 07-31-2008 03:38 PM

I'd be looking for a way to enable the power assist during EOC rather than disable it, assuming it's no more complicated.

EDIT: no ideas about the ABS.

But I do wonder what would happen if you set up a kill switch rather than keying off and back on again. It may be a potential solution to both problems.

slurp812 07-31-2008 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dann_04 (Post 49670)
Hi, i have a 2003 civic si with electronic power steering. It is great because there is no pully to steal power from the engine and it only causes more load on the alternator when being used. But my problem is that when i eoc and have to turn, it first turns like no power steering which is fine, but after i put a certain amount of force on the wheel, it abruptly kicks in and causes some serious issues with trying to perform nice controlled turns. It's like you have 10lbs of resistance till you get to 1/4 turn and then 0lbs resistance in a split second. Very hard not to jerk the car really bad in the direction of the turn. Anyone else have these issues? It's nice afterwards because the power steering stays on and turns are as easy as with the car on. Just curious if there is someway to disable it while the car is off or maybe if you only put a certain amount of force on it it doesn't engage? I don't want to eoc into turns anymore because of it, but it's great for getting to work and i turn it off and coast into the lot and then into a spot.

Also forgot to mention, sometimes when eoc'ing to a stop and i start to use the brakes, my anti-lock brakes have been kicking in on dry pavement, but only with the engine off, any ideas?


I get the same thing, its not you turning it, its time. Mine always takes about 10-15 seconds to kick back in. Turn off a little sooner, and wait, it will steer like normal once it kicks back in.

slurp812 07-31-2008 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MetroMPG (Post 49675)
I'd be looking for a way to enable the power assist during EOC rather than disable it, assuming it's no more complicated.

EDIT: no ideas about the ABS.

But I do wonder what would happen if you set up a kill switch rather than keying off and back on again. It may be a potential solution to both problems.


Oh and I am working on a kill switch. I am going to try and switch off the fuel pump. its the easiest to get to from inside the car. If I ever get around to it, I will post pics. I actually have a relay to use, and have had the back seat out looking at it. I just need a switch, and some time....

dann_04 07-31-2008 07:31 PM

hmmm... i guess maybe it is a time limit lol. Anyway i don't know if a kill switch would help. In normal cars the engine dies and the pully stops so the power steering stops...so in ours i guess it wouldn't reset the circuit so maybe it would work. I dunno, i just started eocing this tank so we'll se what i get. My last tank was 37.86, it's rated for 25 and i'm shooting for 40. As for killing it via the fuel pump i don't know if that's a good idea, because normally there is still some pressure(on most cars to change fuel filter you pull the fuel pump fuse and run the car till it dies(takes like 30 seconds sometimes)) so you would hit the kill which would kill the pump then you would run until your engine got lean enough to die. Doesn't sound good for the engine to me. I'll try to look/think of a different area to hook up a switch to easily. But if you do do it let me know how it turns out.

Does your si take like 3 cranks to start every time even when warm?(i mean you hold the key and the engine turns 2-3 times before start up) Just asking because on my old metro and escort you just had to barely make contact with the key and the thing roared to life. This one seems to take the same amount of time to start regardless of temperature or amount of time running.

bhazard 07-31-2008 08:07 PM

Yea if you kill the pump the car could take a while to die. And then when youre ready to start back up there wont be any fuel pressure built up and it could take a few seconds to start.

slurp812 08-01-2008 06:28 PM

Hmmm.. Well maybe I will have to look at spark. I can do the injectors, but I would have to hack at the wiring harness, and I want to avoid that. the fuse has several things on it, like the ECU. once that gets shut off, I think that also kills the power steering...

steensn 08-02-2008 02:21 PM

Slip Control (ABS) integration expert here. You ABS or ESC system will not work in accesory mode at all. If you key the car back into ignition without turning the car on the ABS module will turn back on. It should not activate at all, but you could have a faulty module, probably Advics or Bosch who's failsafing is jacked up. If you think it is doing it while the car is in acc then you are mistaking it for something else.

slurp812 08-02-2008 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dann_04 (Post 49725)
Does your si take like 3 cranks to start every time even when warm?(i mean you hold the key and the engine turns 2-3 times before start up) Just asking because on my old metro and escort you just had to barely make contact with the key and the thing roared to life. This one seems to take the same amount of time to start regardless of temperature or amount of time running.

I spins a few times, yes. but of course always starts...

dann_04 08-03-2008 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steensn (Post 50335)
Slip Control (ABS) integration expert here. You ABS or ESC system will not work in accesory mode at all. If you key the car back into ignition without turning the car on the ABS module will turn back on. It should not activate at all, but you could have a faulty module, probably Advics or Bosch who's failsafing is jacked up. If you think it is doing it while the car is in acc then you are mistaking it for something else.

I'm not sure what manufacturer made the abs components on this car, guessing honda because they are still stock. I know it is the abs system because that is the only thing that feels like that on the brake pedal, it is like a turning gear is hitting the brake pedal and causing that very familiar vibration through it. I am wondering if it is the self check system as i believe on this car it does an abs self check a certain amount of time after the car is turned on, and if i turn it off and then back into the on position then it would theoretically reset the circuit and run another self check and perhaps i am braking sometimes when it is self checking? I mean the abs should be working when the ignition is in the on position correct? The eps does a reset and then works, the air bags work, the radio works, the speedo works, why would the abs and ebd be the only electrical systems not to function after the circuit is reset?

silverfox 08-03-2008 07:56 PM

In my opinion the simplest way to kill your engine without having everything reset would be to "kill" the coil - i would find the power wire going to the coil and put a normally closed relay in that line - run a small switch to activate the relay to put an open in the circuit - this only kills the spark - everything else works the same (if you want to restart the engine just release the relay and you would have spark again- if the engine were turning <vbg>)

slurp812 08-03-2008 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silverfox (Post 50601)
In my opinion the simplest way to kill your engine without having everything reset would be to "kill" the coil - i would find the power wire going to the coil and put a normally closed relay in that line - run a small switch to activate the relay to put an open in the circuit - this only kills the spark - everything else works the same (if you want to restart the engine just release the relay and you would have spark again- if the engine were turning <vbg>)

I have 4 coils, but I checked my schematic, and they all have a common ground. that may be the easiest thing to do it cut the ground...

silverfox 08-03-2008 09:59 PM

That should work - anything to break the power circuit to the coils (if you power the relay from an ign hot wire and have it latch open with a push button the relay would go back to it's n\c position when you turn the key off) be kind of nice to have a push button that would kill the engine but reset it's self when you turn off the key so all you have to do is start the motor normally

steensn 08-04-2008 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dann_04 (Post 50578)
I'm not sure what manufacturer made the abs components on this car, guessing honda because they are still stock. I know it is the abs system because that is the only thing that feels like that on the brake pedal, it is like a turning gear is hitting the brake pedal and causing that very familiar vibration through it. I am wondering if it is the self check system as i believe on this car it does an abs self check a certain amount of time after the car is turned on, and if i turn it off and then back into the on position then it would theoretically reset the circuit and run another self check and perhaps i am braking sometimes when it is self checking? I mean the abs should be working when the ignition is in the on position correct? The eps does a reset and then works, the air bags work, the radio works, the speedo works, why would the abs and ebd be the only electrical systems not to function after the circuit is reset?

You are correct. If you feel a puslation in the brakes after you put it back into ignition then it is the self test mode that all slip control modules do when they get ignition power again. If it only happens after you turn the key back to ignition then you will get a pulsation of all coils (8 if it is ABS and 13 if it is brake TC/ESC) along with a running of the motor.

FYI, no vehicle manufacturer maks their own ABS or ESC units. They are all from Tier 1 suppliers that specialize in this unit. Cost and speciality are the main reason. I am not aware of any aftermarket replacements either, not really feasible but everything is possible with the right time and money.


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