Anyone have experience with hot glue paintless dent removal?
 

Supposedly the cheap kits work if you let the glue sit for ten minutes, which I did not see before. I bought some Stanley high-strength hot glue that worked pretty well, but cannot find what I had left. Walmart now sells Gorilla Glue hot glue sticks, but I am not sure how much better those work. I broke the glue tab with my Autozone kit using Gorilla Glue, bought a new one from Harbor Freight, and broke that tab using their glue, but letting it sit for ten minutes.
I have been using elevator bolts from Ace, but the glue peels off too easily.
Has anyone tried PDR-specific glue? Can you recommend something that would hold glue better than the metal on elevator bolts?

Here is the Stanley glue: Stanley GS500 6-Pack 4-Inch Formula II-Super Strength Glue Sticks
Surebonder: Surebonder H-810R High Performance Acrylic Adhesive Glue Sticks, 10-Inch
Steinel: Steinel GF 260 High Strength 12" Glue Sticks
Tabweld: TabWeld - The World's Best PDR Specific Adhesive – BlackplaguePDR.com

Thank you very much!

The local hail dent king says they don't work that well.
And I noticed he doesn't use them.
Guess your experience is why they don't work.

If you want to give the steel elevator bolt one last try, first grind off any metal plating or surface rust, thoroughly degrease, then bond immediately. Bond strength to steel is VERY dependent on surface preparation.

Metal plating on the bolt? There was not much rust on the fender, but I sanded it down. I have been spraying it with denatured alcohol and wiping down with a clean rag.
I bought more Stanley hot glue, two other high-strength sticks with great reviews, and the best-rated PDR glue sticks on Amazon, but it requires a 100-watt hot glue gun, and the only good one I could find was this: https://www.amazon.com/Surebonder-PR...t+hot+glue+gun

At thirty-one dollars, I was not ready to commit to it for a proof-of-concept. I do not remember finding any stores selling 100w glue guns. The ones that came with the kits were only 40w, so perhaps eighty or even sixty would have been enough for a button of glue, I just know that 40w gun was inadequate.

I used my heat ray to melt glue onto the tab. Both the metal and plastic tabs held! I was able to pull out dents! I will post pictures of the results soon. There are still high and low spots and a crease, but it is much better.

I have not gotten back to my cars, though. I wandered around a car paint superstore, but that seemed like a waste of time.

I made some progress, but hit a plateau. None of these special hot glue sticks pop off like normal ones do, at least not from both sides.

I started trying this again to remove dents from my roof. I am making some progress, but that metal has a great deal of flex.

And here I thought it was a temperature differential thing causing the dents to pop out...remember reading somewhere about heating and quickly cooling(or vice versa) a dent to get it to pop out.

Like most things, halfass efforts will probably cost you more in the long term than doing it properly. Maybe not in $$, but in effort and time, yes.

Yes but the learning can be worth it. It is how half-asses become full asses! Wait, that does not seem right. :)

I looked up one of your links, Xist, and then hunted for review video demonstrations of the TapWeld brand. This one is pretty professional, basically unedited, and quite impressive:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zgOzC8Mv0h4

Perhaps one day I can progress from awful to awe-inspiring?

Xist, take some pictures of your process and post 'em... both failure and success. Would be appreciated because instructive, too.

Good luck. I am curious now. First heard of PDR just like 6 months ago from that "Car Stuff" podcast.