Battery relocate
 

Hey guys, I've completed my battery relocate to the trunk and simply deleted the stock battery. I have a question about fuse holders and amperage ratings. I've seen the ANL style and it looks good to me, but what amp rating would give me full power for starting and protection from shorts? I've been searching the site for a few hours and haven't come up with numbers so far. Any thoughts?

A recent fender bender has got me thinking I'd better get on the fuse business asap. If that positive wire had been damaged I'd have a fire for sure.:eek:

Positive wire 1gua running through firewall on passenger side, under plastic rocker panel and under plastic interior over rear fender and into trunk. I think I'll put the fuse very close to battery in spare tire well.

You'll notice the trunk floor I just made to replace the original water damaged unit. Hack job I put together the day after my Dad borrowed the jig saw, so I used a skillsaw. It's ugly but under the carpet so I'm not worried. I'll clean up the edges so I won't get a big nasty sliver on a dark road replacing a flat tire.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...6&d=1411325681

Good question. Usually a fusible link is used to the electronics, but not to the starter. I guess you can try the amp capacity of the bat, say 70 amps for a ground 24 as a frame of reference. Many stereo installs Ive seen up to 150 to 300 amp fuses.

Use the CCA rating for a starting guess. The CCA rating is how many amps the battery can produce for 30 seconds at 0 degrees F. Also take a hard look at the total resistance of the fuse, fuseholder, and connections. Even if the resistance is only 0.001 ohms, that would be over 1/2 volt drop.

Why did you do it?

I could see moving it to the center of gravity to improve the polar moment. Did you move it the full length of the car? I assume the stock battery was ahead of the front axle-line.

I did it because I pulse and glide EOC for my entire 2 hour commute. It gets cold here and winter is dark so I needed a much larger capacity battery to power it all while giving me reliable starts. The stock battery tray was tiny with no room to fit a bigger battery, hence the move. This all started when the stock starter battery bit the dust. Since I wasn't about to buy 2 new batteries I went with the big one in back.

My cobalt has the battery in the trunk from the factory, I'll look and see if GM put any fuse in it.

A quick search found a 50 amp fuse in negative cable.

EDIT: Went out and looked at it, I'm not sure what the 50a fuse protects, the, negative cable goes to battery mount that I assume is grounded, feels pretty solid, the 50a fuse is right next to it but didn't try to figure out the wiring. I don't think 50a is enough to run the starter. Maybe that's the accessories only.

When I relocated my battery, I used a 100A circuit breaker.