Bed Leveling
 

I follow some Youtube channels, one being Maker's Muse. On the 12th (what day's today?) he put up 3D Printing Myths I used to believe....

I have my own procedure for bed leveling. Conventional wisdom is to proceed around the four corners and use a piece of paper as a feeler gauge.

What I do is:

• Drop the bed
• center the printhead on the bed and raise all four corners equally
• proceed to the left edge center and adjust the left corners
• proceed to the right edge center and adjust the right corners
• proceed to center and confirm
• proceed around the four corners to confirm

The only conclusion I have drawn is it is satisfactory.

And where Maker's Muse suggests a metal Feeler gauge, I have backlight from a window and I just eyeball the gap.

Nobody cares about 3D printing? In this town anyway. My biggest hurdle is not being able to buy filament in a brick an mortar store.

https://www.proto-pasta.com/

Not only do they have wood-filled PLA, they have six different colors. They have high-temperature PLA, metal filled PLA (that can be buffed or patinated) and a rainbow of colors. Prices are competitive and they ship on cardboard spools to avoid the waste of injection molded spools.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...rints_860x.jpg
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...rints_860x.jpg

I, for one, appreciate the sample's icosahedron shapes.They are located in Vancouver, Washington. Road trip!

3D print post of the day.

I remember when Daox was making shift knobs in 2015.https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...ter-30670.html So I feel like I'm late to the party. But my build volume is 8x what he had.

Car parts, this is about annealed high-temperature PLA:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxCayGH7cRY

Proto Pasta have an electrically conductive filament. If one made a part with that, one wouldn't even have to paint it with conductive paint. Then one could immerse it in an electrolytic bath and plate it with copper, and then nickel.

The few times I had to level the bed of a 3d printer I just set the z height using a piece of paper as the feeler gage. Then went around to the 4 corners going clockwise and did a test print. Then based on the thickness (or how smashed) the layer was on the sides I adjusted from there until it looked consistent. So far no I haven't had any problems.

I've moved on to other problems. :)

This week I hope to find I can order by mail from Proto Pasta. I want to try the matte HTPLA.