Best Air Filter
 

Ok... so I cranked my tires up to 45 PSI, slowed down, learned to glide and follow the road less traveled. My trusty 2.3l Ford Ranger gas mileage has jumped from the pre-eco days of 22 MPG to 30.5.

My last oil change I switch to slick 50 (it has 100K on it) and will be asking about the best oil probably in another month or two, but currently I am looking at swapping out my air filter. I have heard a lot about K&N and was leaning to that, but then I heard about Green Filters and True Flow. So now I am confused as to which would be best. I am looking at driving my little truck into the ground so I dont have a problem buying a "forever" filter. I found this website -->Air Filters Research Guide Compare Performance Replacement Filters but I always get nervous reading reviews from retailers, so I am open to what others might have experienced.

As always thanks for the quality advice! :thumbup:

I have to disagree with not cleaning a K&N filter. I have seen these plug solid from dirt trapped by the oil and even set off lean codes and MAF codes.

In my professional experience, Baldwin makes the best filter (air/oil/fuel) in the market.

One of the members here has a website called MetroMPG.com. He did some actual testing on performance filters when used with our driving style. These tests were VERY well done. Check theses out.

Testing a 'performance' air filter for MPG - Part 1 - MetroMPG.com
Testing a 'performance' air filter for MPG - Part 2 - MetroMPG.com

In short it seems to be likely that during our style of driving we do not "suck" enough air, so what filter you use makes no difference.

Sucking clean air keeps a clean engine.

Imagine that. This also works on a clogged standard air filter element.

Props to metrompg for a great study.

Here's another good study (IMHO) done with precision pressure measurements that indicates the actual filter media is a relatively small percentage of the total inlet restriction.

http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0646

Fellow Eco's... thanks for the feedback. It doesnt look as though the air-filter will change my MPG at all, but it might reduce the amount going into a landfill. I will probably get a K&N just so I can take care of doing all the filtration methods in my truck myself; and reduce waste.

Again, thanks for the insights.

K&N air filters are a scam.
BMW E30 air filter tests
Air Filtration Test
The best filter is the one that filters out the most dust particles out of the air. There is no fuel economy to be gained here.

It's been mentioned on this site countless times that the engine is really just an air pump. I'm no scientist, but I have to belive that the less restriction of the air going in, the less the pump has to pull. That being said, keeping the tach at 2000 or less doesn't require too much air. My conclusion a high flo air filter may help minimally, unless you keep putting your foot into it because you like how it sounds.

ISO 5011 Duramax Air Filter Test Report

That's one very good study.

K&N filters flow more when new, have less accumulative capacity and saturate rapidly at which point they start to flow less than good paper filters with the same amount of accumulated dirt, and let 7+ times more dirt through than a good paper filter.

I don't want all that dirt in my engine.

I run a K&N, despite the tests listed by the diesel guy. My car does not operate on dusty roads, and I do not expect 500K miles out of my engine like an OTR trucker might. More flow = more air = more power. I just cleaned mine, so pics are useless for me...

I do like the AEM Trueflow Dry Synthetic filter, though. Looking at one of those for the wife's truck...

LOL. You call that proof of concept? Thats pathetic. I don't care how dirty your airfilter is. You want to prove anything? Use a wet cleanex to wipe down the entire inside surface of the upper airbox. Lets see what got through your Precious K&N.

Heres mine. Volvo 960 airbox with the stock Mann/Mahle paper filter changed out every 30k miles. The car has 150k miles. The airbox has never been cleaned.

1000 miles on the filter.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3112/...3406d5ca1c.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3296/...28652c5d81.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3224/...b77de9efd7.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2163/...c18f422623.jpg

I'm tired of hearing all the k&n marketing bull. Time to put up or shut up.
The problem with your theory is, a k&n filter doesn't flow any more air than any ordinary paper filter. Its been proven time and time again by independent test most of which have been linked into this thread.

cheers
Justin

I don't see how those pictures prove anything, and how the study I linked to is BS...

People are free to believe anything they want. In this case they can chose to believe some guy with an old filter or the results from an ISO test done by an automotive filtration testing equipment manufacturer...

lucidexp -

I use a Wix air filter on advice from a member of another forum. Had a K&N, unable to detect any improvement.

CarloSW2

Still waiting on your pictures.
3 at $8.98 each
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/137
vs $44.89 for 1 k&n filter not including the "recharge kit" http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/137
So at this rate it would take 5 paper filters and 150k miles to even begin to recoup the initial investment in a k&n filter. That doesn't include the recharge kit or the cost of shortened engine life due to k&n's pathetic filtering qualities.
Some deal.

My TDI is on its 3rd oem air filter at 203k miles. I use a CAT filter minder to know when I need to change my filter. The current filter has been in for the last 53k miles and is pulling roughly 20 inches of water.

I must have glossed over it. My apologies. Better than I expected but still doens't help justify the expense of a k&n.

This sort of goes back to the concept of "lifetime fluids". Something a lot of European manufacturers were in love with in the mid to late 90s. It didn't work out too well.

cheers
Justin

It all comes down to dirt intake, not power/economy. I prefer a clean engine and a clean filter that I can replace for about $10.00 a year. Let's not make a big deal about air filters because what is an air filter? Exactly, an air filter.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...teniestien.jpg

I agree. Is it worth going at it about? Is it that big of a deal?

I did see one thing that makes sense to me... Disposable filters have to go in the landfills. That's a simple, honest point. I admit, it's got me thinking of changing.

Actually, the K&N outflows the paper filter, (I believe the Duramax test validates this - can't get to it from work to validate) but the K&N allows more dirt in.

Air Filtration Test

Quote: For the record, the K&N was the best flowing filter.

No angst here, but if your air filter (on any car) is a flow restriction, a better flowing air filter will increase performance.

And it goes on to say...
:rolleyes:

Internet BMW Riders - Air Filter FAQ/Info

Also long read, but determines that the K&N will filter just as well as a paper filter (but only once it's dirty), and that a K&N outperforms the paper filter at part-throttle applications.

On a Mazda Miata with a bone stock 1.6 liter engine (where the restriction is the airbox itself and not so much the filter) a K&N may be marginal at best, but the theory is still sound. Both vehicles I own are 4.6 liters, but compared to a 1.3 liter Metro, my car is like a 300 pound man trying to run a marathon while breathing through a straw.

As I previously stated, and as stated in the article, the K&N flows better than the factory paper in any application, and the gains will vary based on the application and how restrictive the factory filter is in that application...

the k&n on injected vehicles is best dirty indeed. The old carb 2.3is the ones that need clean to be efficient. Injected is a big slob waiting to suck in alot of unnecessary Bigness for *nothing* but consumption. Be sure filter is on the other side of maf, the k&n can gain a chemistry being oiled, sucking into whatever type maf electrically functioning may not like it. I wouldn't use a k&n on injected anyway...but it is a popular choice, like a nice shiny chrome air intake snorkel waiting for maf lightning :)

I would be interested to see some testing on the other components of an air intake system on the blackfly. (IE If there's any difference with just the bare filter vs. having the intake regularly set up)

OK same problem, different example...

i just bought a "microfiber" rag at the mall. I got pulled in by the guy from TV and the "eco" marketing. I figured if i could replace all my paper towels with one rag, i could save money and landfill real-estate.

But when i got home i thought, man i'm dumb, now i've got to get 200,000 miles out of this stupid rag to justify paying $8.00 for it!!!

Damn you guy from TV!!!!! Im glad he wasn't selling $50.00 air-filters...

i run a K & n filter on my explorer, and have had the same one for 106,000 miles. no damage to MAF, no engine problems. only thing i ever had to replace on the motor (excluding general maintenance of course) was a pcv valve and dpfe module (controls egr valve).

had one (same exact one actually) on a ranger i used to own. 175,000 miles, no engine problems.

i didn't notice any mpg gains, and the butt-dyno showed a little better performance. but thats not why i bought them. i love them off-road.

i once got my ranger over the hood in water/mud (little deeper than i thought, oops). engine started running real rough, and i barely got out. so i got to the other side, turned it off, and popped the hood. took off the top (engine side) of the airbox, no water/dirt intrusion. pulled out the filter and water started running out of it (non-engine side). bottom of airbox was full of water. i just set the filter on the roof for about 30 minutes until it dried out, put it back in, no problems. (also pulled the spark plugs and cranked the motor to make double-sure no water got in). added a little oil when i got home.

basically i've driven 2 vehicles a total of around 280,000 miles with 1 k & n filter. and 1 clean/recharge kit. i'm frequently on dirty/muddy roads (every day actually). i'm happy with them, mainly because i didn't expect any kind of performance/mpg gains. i clean/oil them when i can't see any purple (oil) on the (non-engine) side. personally i don't see the point of one on a paved road-only rig, but i dont see it hurting anything.

the way i see it, if YOU feel it was worth YOUR money, then it works for YOU. no point arguing about it.

To solve this once and for all, I will install a paper filter and document the results. I've got tons of mileage tracked so far on my K&N, and I fill up at least once per week, so any noticable change will be worth it.

I have a hard time believing anyone on this forum will be able to provide valid results from their own tests. There are just to many variables to get any kind of controlled environment.

The results are there, you just have to read them. I'm pretty sure not many people who posted in this thread actually took the time to read the valid test reports and interpret the results.

As a matter of fact it indeed comes down to credibility.

Btw the report I referred to can be discussed, that could only be good. Did you care to read it? I would very much like to read what you have to say about it that would invalidate its conclusions. Somehow I am inclined to believe you will never go down that route.

I use K&N and have never had any problems with them, we have a K&N in my dad's mercedes 190 E and it's got over 55 thoushand miles on it and it just now needs it's first cleaning

I'd also suggest Amsoil filters I don't use them but i've heard nothing but good things

Got ya beat! :D

A couple of months ago, I decided to get my '83 Honda 250 ATC running.

I swear the following is the truth...

I bought this Honda ATC new in '83. I installed a Mugen 300 top-end kit and K&N filter, and used it in Open-class ATC Desert Racing for 2 years. After that, I mostly used it to run around in the Glamis (California) sand dunes, for about 10 years. Since then, it's been sitting in my garage.

Anyway, back to the story... I thought I'd better clean my K&N filter (since it was over 25 years old) and guess what?!?!? It cleaned up perfectly! I oiled it up, and the &$%# thing is still working like a champ! :thumbup:

Unbelievable, but true!

K&N

Krap & Noise

How many forums do you guys follow or read?
It's the same thing everywhere. Some poster gets all excited with butt-dyno results and the 35 posts later....... NOISE NOISE NOISE.
Why do those of you with your 1 personal - non- tested, non- validated experiences feel the need to try and Kram this Noise down our neck???

chill........

The best air filter is the one with the most surface area. This usually means a cheap 1 time use paper filter with lots of very dense and very tall pleats. For BMW/Benz/Volvos I stick to Mann or Mahle. Reusable foam filters generally allow way too much dirt through for little or no flow benefit. They try to promote the whole reusable aspect of these filters but when a paper filter costs $7-12 ever 15k-20k miles, do you really want to be driving around with a 100k mile old 'reusable filter'?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm