Big DC motor on ebay
 

GE Motor of a Cat Forklift #97220-29900 good used - eBay (item 360145948115 end time Apr-16-09 13:57:12 PDT)

I'm no motor expert, but that thing is way underpriced, methinks. Looks very capable of driving a car.

Buy it Matt!

I posted for the benefit of anybody in or near IL that is looking to convert a car. If i bought it, wifey would be selling my severed head on eBay next week.

Curiously, no wattage mentioned anywhere, neither max current. The seller looks a complete mechanical bloke.

it's definitely tempting. the 250 needs the carbs rebuilt again and I'm about sick of messing with the gasser... hmm... and there's a controller in the works that could use some beta testers :)

Damn, it's tempting. Not far at all... Let's see, maybe @250 in 100 amp hour trolling batteries and I could probably do 60mph for 20 minutes :)

Damnit, well, if she puts my head on a pike then the jokes on her...

Damn... So many details, keep the gearbox? just the clutch? How to make it freewheel? Regen? Where does it all fit?

But I can ditch all the electric bicycle stuff then.

Then I boogerweld it all together and Matt makes fun of me ;)

Damn, that is a tough one, just cuz it sounds like a real good fit for the gs (I called guy).

Man, I could probably get away with $100, but if it goes up much more than that I'm gonna get outbid for sure (probably a good thing).

Damn...

Ok. Here's to getting outbid :)

Converting a car to electric is way above my head. However, I always like to help an Ecomodder out, and I'm from IL, so if anyone buys it, I could help with delivery. :)

When wondering how much last minute snipping there will be on an ebay item, I always like to look at the number of views. (Just above this anchor point (scroll up).)
3:09 PM CDT
154 views of the motor on ebay.
34 views of this thread.

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna get outbid on this one. But a 200lb motor on a 250 frame would be sweet :D

Wow. That's...a BIG motor. Local pickup only though, so I hope you live pretty clo-

Wait, you want to put it in a WHAT? :eek:

tick

tick

tick

:p

Hey, if it's too big, I'll give you 120 for it. ;)

dcb, you bid on it? (o***e?) Good stuff :)
7 hours remain, i hope it works out for you!

That 200 pound motor could handle a good deal of heat-soak, i expect. You may be able give it some serious peak wattage :) Get on board with the ReVolt Beta Testing! :) You could have a complete motor/controller combo for 400 bucks, add in 600 in batteries and you're cruising electric!

o**e, thats me, yup. The motor is just a few towns over. I'll be happy with the stock wattage I'm sure :)

I would consider a revolt, but I'm wondering about IGBTs too as it was mentioned in this thread: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...html#post12804

dcb... one of the loose design aspects of ReVolt is the seperated power and control. Buy the parts for the control board and make your own cap filter and gate driver board. IGBTs have the huge (in my opinion) advantage of being case-mounted (they have mounting holes and isolated copper bases). So you have a control board, a filter/drive board and a bigass IGBT bolted to a heat sink. IGBTs usually have screw or spade connectors, so you're removing about 100 solder joints and all of the problems with turn-on times.


do it... do it... do it... you know you wanna...

A motor last week (about the same size) was a 1 ($100) bid until the very end, then it went for $210.00, so someone's snipin'.

I would be cautious of anything that required a whole new rattlecan paint job to go up for sale as a used motor....but I suppose it's worth $25 dollars in scrap if it's no good.....

Wherewolf

I'm really rooting for you here... I hope all it needs is a clean up and you're good to go :)

Why does it say you bid twice?

I upped my bet a little bit. Not much, it is just a tactic. It will get sniped, but it is fun to pretend :)

I got a nice IGBT I'm looking at too on the cheap: http://www.pwrx.com/pwrx/docs/cm600ha24h.pdf Any thoughts on that?

I have put a number of hours into researching IGBTs and my answer is.... I have NO idea. It is complicated, to say the least. Was that one, by chance, the 60 dollar "buy it now" lot of used IGBT's with the 25 dollar shipping? I'm really not sure what to choose.

I was thinking though... you might want to get a "2-pack" IGBT so you can do synch rec. That is... if the IGBT has a lower Vdrop than a diode would... not sure.

I was going to start a thread on DIYElectricCar asking if the experts had a sure-fire list of IGBT's or maybe as a place to say "is this one good?" so the experts can comment.

Well this one is like $60 shipped
PRX - IGBT CM600HA-24H Power Module 1200V 600A - eBay (item 290049066472 end time Apr-27-09 14:17:07 PDT)

I guess the "dual" response would be, how much efficiency gain are we talking about, and is it only at full throttle, vs cost/complications, ya know. Is it good enough to get started with, kinda sounds like it will handle 48 volts 300+ amps no problem. Throw some pwm at it and monitor the current I recon.

Also the synch gains are probably frequency dependent.

Aww, dang. You got outbid. Still cheap, though. C'mon, bid again! :p j/k

IF the power loss across an IGBT is LESS than the power loss across a freewheel diode, then the gain from syn.rec. comes during the "off" portion of the PWM and is relative to the current...

Basically, when the driving switch (mosfet bank or igbt) is off, the current still has to flow somewhere (because the motor is a huge inductor), so there is a freewheel diode in there. Typically a mosfet bank will have a lower Vdrop then a diode, so when you turn off the driving switch, you turn on a mosfet in place of the diode. That's sync rec. So if you are pushing huge current, you get huge gains in efficiency.

If you want to K.I.S.S, then just use a freewheel diode and account for the heat.

If you are looking at playing with igbt's, look here... I'll save you the LMGTFY :)

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...ets-24664.html

I googled "site:diyelectriccar.com igbt" and found some good threads.

Ah well, it's probably headed for $240. Crowded area around here.

For ~$100 I can finish my electric bicycle, but it was nice to think about anyway. 'preciate the inputs and encouragements :)

Hopefully someone else can put it to good use, maybe another local ecomodder and I can go visit it ;)

Come oooon.... its only an extra 28 dollars so far! hehe... kidding... another one will come along. I'm sure that local wreckers or forklift suppliers would have cheap options as well.

google maps satellite and zoom in on the place where its at
1375 SPAULDING RD, 60120

It looks like a total fork fest, will probably stop in once I have a real budget.

From the eBay listing, it sounded like they may have more laying around.

That's probably for the best anyway. You get to a) open and inspect a prospective motor and b) tell the guy it is crap and he'll never sell it and he only has this one chance to unload it for 50 bucks :)

If anyone is wondering, these are indeed the EXACT specs the MHWC guy gave me over the phone:

That is a monster! You'd have to work out how the RPM will do with your gearing.

you know you want it... :)

LOL, can't.. mustnt.. do .. it.. must.. leave.. key.. board..

Wait a sec... were you thinking of putting this in a motorcycle!?!?

If on the outside chance I got it for ~$100, I was going to take it as a sign that it belonged on my 250, yes :)

haha... 200lb motor on a 350lb bike. You could do a burnout till your rim wore down.

Alternative for a motorcycle: Advanced DC 140-01-4003 Motor, asking 300 since 2/15/09

(no relation to me)

I used to have 4 of those. Instead of making a controller, I hawked them on Ebay! They are the older ones, that can't really switch much above 8KHz. Lee Hart said that they need to be derated to 1/3 (continuous??? I forgot) of their current rating. The Tesla guy used some IGBTs in his homemade controller for his electric Porsche.

http://www.jstraubel.com/944EV/controller.JPG

That's purdy :)

So lower frequency = less diode losses, but the noises your motor makes will be in the audible spectrum? And at some point bits might get "saturated"?

I don't think that lower freq = less diode loss. Diode loss is relative to the current*offtime. You get less SWITCHING loss from lower frequency.

If you want to be really cool you could make your controller match the frequency of an ICE as it goes through the revs :)