The civic is lugging.
 

Mmk, now, this is an extremely weird problem that I will try to describe the best I can.

When driving, even at a normal load (although it seems to do it more when accelerating) the engine will like, lug and bog down, the RPM's don't change, it just kinda sounds weird and jerks. I'm new to driving a stick but I'm fairly sure it has nothing to do with me being new to driving a stick. It almost feels like L/B is kicking in but I don't see that the problem as the O2 sensor isn't dipping to 0.000 and on top of that, it does it sometimes when I'm at a constant load.

1. No, it does not do it while idling, it doesn't die if you rev the engine (red line it) and drop off the throttle at idle.

2. For those of you that know about this problem, yes it's still leaking oil. I'm thinking maybe I'm losing oil pressure? Could this cause it?

3. I have no idea when the last time the spark plugs/wires and oil was changed, along with the fuel filter. Could this cause it?

4. Oh I forgot to mention, no CEL.

Even with no CEL, it sounds like a misfire to me. Have you checked the plugs in it?

How many miles on the idle air control valve?

you have a misfire, one that is load dependant, so i would start looking at the ignition system first, though a plugged fuel filter could contribute as well.

plugs/wires would be a good place to start. how short of a period of time have you had it to where you don't know how long it has been run on its current oil?

That sounds like lean burn kicking in, or trying to kick in. I've had my HX trying to kick in with no change in the 2nd o2 reading. I got a new o2 sensor, the wide band one and it no longer does it. Around $100 on ebay but it's a gamble.

Nah I haven't bothered.

Probably 198k.

Well the previous owner had it from 192k miles to 198k miles and he didn't change the oil. And he said the previous owner before him didn't say anything about changing it, so I'm going to assume 6k+ miles.

In every report I have seen of the o2 sensor going out, you get some TB's thrown, no check engine light, but still TB's that point to a bad or going bad o2 sensor and in this case, I'm not getting any TB's.

this is a pretty effective way of turning an engine into soup cans.

changeitchangeitchangeitchangeitchangeitchangeit.

some engines/oils don't mind 6K+ miles, but it could also be 16K miles..... or 26K.... i've seen some REALLY stupid things happen all in the name to save a dollar.

Like my dad who went 21k on his oil change just recently? Everytime I told him to change it, he would give me the 'no time' excuse. So I just unplugged his oil drain plug last thursday and drained all the oil out of the car to force him to change it :P.

Anyway, yea I'm gonna change it, but I don't have the money to do so. I'm gonna have to wait for me to get paid next week. With that being said, it does still have that oil leak so fresh oil has been continuously added for who knows how long.

if it has gone this long, another week won't be the difference between an immediate demise and a million mile life.... but $20 and 30 minutes every 5,000-7,500 miles(i'm guessing what a normal interval for your car might be, follow your manual/community knowledge) is a drop in the bucket compared to the time and money spent swapping an engine only to potentially do it again if a swapped engine led a neglected life as well.

new oil helps, but an ancient filter doesn't. if i had something that leaked/burned more than a quart every 1,000 miles, i don't think i would change the oil often, but the filter would certainly be getting attention.

Yea, I'm not driving it right now due to the fact I don't want to drive it on the old oil and spark plugs. I just noticed the lugging when I took it to the mechanic to get the oil leak looked at, and then last night around town to check out the L/B with UG. Tbh it rarely ever does it, but it does do it once in a while.

[Edit]: While we are on the subject of spark plugs and wires, what would you guys recommend for best economy? I was told Iridium spark plugs and NGK wires are the best bet for that sort of thing, but I would like some more input.

Anyone?

Agreed on the misfire. Pull the coils/plug wires individually, ground a test light to the frame and check one at a time. The spark should be able to jump a solid 1/2 inch out of that boot. If one is weak, replace coil or wires, whichever you have. Also make sure you have no moisture down in the spark plug tubes, this has been a problem for me in the past.

Another vote for ignition. If broke, clean and regap the plugs to test. These cars are very sensitive the fouled plugs.

NGK v-power and NGK blue wires. I've tried others, they are worse.

Well I'm just gonna replace the spark plugs and wires, I did check the wires and they seem ok, I gotta find the tool for the spark plugs.