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-   -   Clutch inoperable when cold, recently replaced (https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/clutch-inoperable-when-cold-recently-replaced-33002.html)

Xist 10-28-2015 01:39 PM

Clutch inoperable when cold, recently replaced
 
I noticed that the clutch felt weak last week and then I had difficulty getting in gear first thing in the morning. On Sunday, I needed to turn off my car, put her in gear, and then start in first. With the clutch all of the way in, it still moved forward when I released the brake.

Last night I spent a couple of hours with a friend and I needed to turn off my car to shift to reverse and then again to shift back into gear in order to make a three-point turn.

You had better believe that I am taking my car back to Pep Boys, a different one than replaced the timing belt in my Forester, and I had them fix it two weeks later. I did not choose Pep Boys, my clutch went out when I attempted a road trip, and my insurance towed it there.

I just want the best idea of what the problem is before they start telling me that I need to pay for things that I do not need. They wanted a valve lash when the timing belt tensioner broke.

Old Mech and everyone else, I thank you in advance. Please enjoy your day.

Zovix 10-28-2015 02:40 PM

Hi

If you have a hydraulic clutch I would believe in an airlock in slave cylinder. Check for brake fluid level and bleed out on bleeder located on clutch slave cylinder on the gearbox.

I could also be a faulty or miss mounted disengagement arm or bearing.

But I would guess on some fault in slave cylinder.
/Z

user removed 10-28-2015 05:21 PM

Fill the reservoir and bleed at the slave as previously mentioned.

If it is adjustable set the free play at .5 to .75 inch, add more free play if the engagement point is higher than you like, but under no circumstances eliminate the free play altogether or the throw out bearing will fail very quickly (it needs to rest when your foot is off the pedal).

Mark the reservoir where you filled it and keep an eye on it, if the level is dropping you are loosing fluid somewhere. Usually the slave cylinder fails first. If the slave is not wet with fluid, look under the dash where the actuator rod goes through the firewall for signs of leakage at the master cylinder.

It's possible the people who replaced it did nothing wrong, but if bleeding and proper adjustment don't help it could be something wrong with their installation. Confirm this before going in with a chip on your shoulder, especially it they did nothing with the master or slave (they replaced neither).

regards
mech

darcane 10-28-2015 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xist (Post 497889)
I noticed that the clutch felt weak last week and then I had difficulty getting in gear first thing in the morning. On Sunday, I needed to turn off my car, put her in gear, and then start in first. With the clutch all of the way in, it still moved forward when I released the brake.

Last night I spent a couple of hours with a friend and I needed to turn off my car to shift to reverse and then again to shift back into gear in order to make a three-point turn.

You had better believe that I am taking my car back to Pep Boys, a different one than replaced the timing belt in my Forester, and I had them fix it two weeks later. I did not choose Pep Boys, my clutch went out when I attempted a road trip, and my insurance towed it there.

I just want the best idea of what the problem is before they start telling me that I need to pay for things that I do not need. They wanted a valve lash when the timing belt tensioner broke.

Old Mech and everyone else, I thank you in advance. Please enjoy your day.

Did they replace the pilot bearing/bushing?

Xist 10-29-2015 01:16 AM

They just told me the car was ready to go, the guy said that he gave me a discount, and I thanked him. I will try to find the paperwork to see if they mentioned anything else. I did ask what faults they found and the guy said that the car was in great shape.

I just hope that I find what other problems are developing as I approach 200k before they surprise me.

hamsterpower 10-29-2015 05:03 AM

I've had the same problem with my old 98 Civic. The clutch works well and as expected until it gets really cold. Then drags partially engaged. I've re-bled the system a bunch of times and no improvement. The only thing that works for me is to pump the clutch pedal a few times before starting. I suppose I'll have to replace the master cylinder again at some point.


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