Coming Soon.... (I HOPE)
 

It APPEARS that soon I'll have enough $$ to get my project car for the EV.

But I'm having trouble finding a piece of information that i once
knew by heart - what is the maximum curb weight that i should be willing to consider?

Also, is there a rule of thumb that says something like "12v for every 200lbs" ?

thanks guys.

Hopefully my next thread will finally be my build thread.

And if anyone sees any Craig's List post for a cheap banger around Phoenix
that i might of missed then don't be afraid to point it out to me. :D i MUST
keep it under $500.

Never heard of that rule before. The only "rule of thumb" concerning mass of the E.V. I have ever heard of is a minimum one-third of the mass of the vehicle must be batteries. That is an old rule from the "Convert It" book, it is kind of true when dealing with flooded batteries.

I've seen that one mentioned as well.

The weight rule of thumb I have seen several times is you need about 700 lbs of lead to equal 1 gallon of gas. So if you have a vehicle that used to get 25 mpg as a gasser (say an S-10), 700 lbs of new lead will take it 25 miles.

:D thanks, guys.

i've already sold Big Ben ($700 - way under priced).
someone supposed to be coming by to look at Skuttle Butt this saturday ($500 minimum even though i think $800 would be more appropriate).

The $700 whet toward the bills. hopefully all $500 can go toward the EV.
More money will come from having the project car itself due to local scrap yards:
Engine block: $300
Cat Converter: $200 - $500
metal from radiator, exhaust: $50 - $125
Starter and other copper containing components that can be scrapped: $50 - $200

Estimated total income for next step of project: $550 - $925

I'll make a full ongoing account tally when i start the build thread.

(i'm looking at scrap yards instead of craig's list so that i won't have to wait to find buyers)

I would see about just buying the Citicar that i found last weekend, but it's my understanding that they are only legal for under 40 speed limit streets. Although i may no longer plan to go over 40mph, I still would like access to the 45mph streets. (And my wife is STILL in awe of that car:D)

Current list of cars to look at IF he does indeed buy the car this weekend:
plymouth sundance $500.00
1981 honda civic 4speed manual - $500
Mitsubishi Eclipse 93' - $500
1989 Toyota Supra - $500
90 Eclipse GST whole car or parts - $450
1982 Toyota Celica - $500
1986 TOYOTA COROLLA GREAT ON GAS CHEAP---- - $400
1992 Toyota Paseo - $500

I know it may seem I'm jumping the gun, but i must be prepared because if i sale SkuttleButt on Saturday then I'll start shopping on the very same day for my new baby. So i want to be prepared.

I'm also trying to keep in mind the 5 most important things:
Stick shift
Light Weight
Room for batts and my 240+lbs monster motor.
NO RUST.
Tow-ability.

EDIT:
By the way - asside from measuring font to back for motor space (17+inches counting shaft),
is it easy to measure axel to center motor space? (6+ inches minimum)

They're not restricted, as far as I know. Despite their low top speed, they were sold as "regular" cars, and are licenced as such.

Not like 25mph "NEV"s sold today.

I e-mailed him about the Citicar - still no reply.

To narrow my search for the subject car i'd like to take into account what size engine it already has - this will help me know which cars not to bother looking at because my monster motor won't fit. (Length = 17 inches, Radius = 6 inches)

I've been searching but no luck - Does anyone know of a website where they list engine size specifications? (Ex: what physical size is a 1981 Honda engine?)

Also - right now I'm leaning toward the Celica - it should be RWD and because it's in running condition i will be able to check a few other things out (Like AC for the 120F summers) I would either Remove the transmission completely, or stick it in 3rd and lock it there. Go with sealed AGM (maybe remove the drive shaft and have a more direct rear motor, depending on what i find when i get in there) with, hopefully, plenty under the hood and a few in a drop down rack along the drive shaft hump.
The gear stick I'd leave in with D, P, R using an electrical reverse and a park brake that engages in Park only.

For the controller i would add a heat sink onto it and cut a hole in the hood- i'd mount the controller shallow for just the heat sink to poke out. Minor cut in aero that way, but cooling is likely to be important in AZ summers.

I'd go with an on board charger, hopefully there will be room under the back seats, if not then it would go in the hatchback with a good protection case around it. I'd rather get less range and recharge anywhere instead of better range and pray to get home.

Of course, I'm keeping in mind that I'm a complete moron so what i want and what may actually transpire if i get this car can be two completely different things.

Thanks for letting me rant, it helps me think.
(estimated curb weight: 2500lbs)

Need Help/advice
 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Corolla_E90

Tomorrow I'm meeting a man to discuss the trade of his Corolla for my Taurus.
I already went down and saw his car while he was away.
I can tell you the following:
Front wheel drive
Stick shift
decent body (minor fender dings)
previous oil leak.
he says it runs, but i don't beleive that's so.
A/C is in questionable shape.
4 door with a trunk, no power windows or locks, a puny scary steering wheel I'll want to replace with something more cushy.
The Mfg stamp says Nov. 1989.

My question is:
1 - Is this car good for an EV conversion? (it appears to be)
2 - will my monster motor fit in this car for EV conversion?

Monster Motor specs:
Measured Size:
Weight: 240+ lbs
Case Length: 15 inches
Case Radius: 5.75 to 6 inches (edge to shaft center)
Case Diameter: Approx 12 inches
Spindel length: 1+ inches.
Gear Sex: Male
7400W/36V=205.5A
9600W/48V=200A
(did i do that right? that's Clucking huge, no?)
Case Label:
Manufacturer: CROWN Company
Part No: 020347-001
Serial: 5236
Volts: 36/48 DC
Rating: 7.4/9.6KW
Model: W11AB02
Duty: 1Hour
Insulation: Class H

Anyone out there with experience with this car or with one to actually go out and measure for me (i'm afraid i'll do it wrong) will help me tons. I don't want to trade my running Skuttlebutt (pics) for a non-running car i can't convert.

I'm so scared of making a mistake and being stuck with something i can't convert with my motor and will be unable to recoup the cost of.
HOWEVER- if this car will work and he does approve of the trade then you'll see my build thread start tomorrow. (i'm also worried about batt space. but the trunk is big and i plan to go with sealed AGM batts.)

If you are having second thoughts on this project/car, then don't do it. I have seen 50% of all E.V. projects fail because people get frustrated because of car issues or lack of funds to complete the project. If you are patient, you will find the right car.
As for the motor- That is a pretty big motor but I am concerned about the low current draw.
I noticed that you are from Phoenix. I use to race H.E.V.'s and E.V.'s down at Firebird Raceway during the APS Electrics from 1996-1999. Many high schools in Arizona had an electric vehicle race team with a limit of 96 volts in their class. Maybe you should call up some of those schools to see if you can get parts. I once contacted a team and they gave me their $2000 controller for free.

Waxy: I'd be surprised if that motor will fit into that car. Not saying it won't, but you'll definitely want to measure first, cut second.

A motor that size is undoubtedly overkill for a little FWD car. Would fit better into a small RWD pickup truck that can also handle the battery weight.