CRX - What to do first?
 

Got a crx from a friend today. Almost 300k miles but it was mine for $500

Its my first crx as well as my first Honda. (So feel free to give me any tips)

Its a 5 speed although the Si makes me want to GO!

(which is why i like autos... as they keep me :turtle:)

My friend said he gets 37-40 mpg with it.


The main thing I need to fix is rust.

The drivers door is sagging and one of the hatch hinges are gone.



So what would you experts do?

#1 on my list would be damage control and maintenance. Check to make sure your brakes aren't hanging up, run some fuel injector/carb cleaner through it, check spark plugs and distributor cap condition. Basically, check all the easy/common things. I'd also address the rust issue as soon as you can, its not going to get any better on its own. :)

After you know your car is solid, then I'd start with the mods. Probably throw a grill block on it first and get a mpguino!

I want another one :)

I have wanted one since they first came out. What was it 84-85? I agree the first thing is check the tune up or just go do one. It's good for the brain... This way you know you are starting off from square one and other improvement or changes you make will have legitimate results. As long at the rest of the mechanicals are up to daily driving I would say start with locating a straight used fender.

Dean

Speed tape? check
Rust? check
Missing parts? check
Multiple colors? check

The good part is you could probably leave it parked with the doors unlocked, windows down, and keys in the ignition and it'd still be there when you came back ;-) If I had the time and resources I'd love a car like that. :thumbup:

Yeah I left it unlocked all night.
Just threw a club on it and disconnected the battery.
(plus I think there might be an electrical drain somewhere)

It runs pretty well



Heres my list:
Cleanup/Fix Rust (will take a while)
Rear Wiper Delete
Smaller Side Mirrors
Wheel Covers
MPGuino
Wheel Skirts
Grill Block

Had Hondas for mega-miles. The first thing to do on hi-odometer Hondas: Timing belt replacement. Belt failure is the worse news because there is zero clearance for the valves to clear the pistons when it catastrophically fails. The next is clutch inspection, maintenance and/or replacement. Go down ALL the list of maintenance recommendations and your Honda will keep on ticking. The first one I had, that I sold to a buddy is still running and should be +500K by now.
Then eco-mod it to your heart's desire, brah.

I think its a given that I have to get it running well.


I want the scoops on aero mods and driving technique.

Ive actually been doing a lot of coasting.
Clutch In at low speeds
Neutral in higher speeds
Redline up the hill (j/k)


I think we covered aero too, but feel free to chime in.

Bellypan

Why change technique with speed? It doesn't matter what your vehicle speed is... the engine speed will be at idle while you're in neutral (unless you turn the engine off, in which case it doesn't matter if you're in neutral or clutching).

The problem with clutching for extended periods is that the clutch release bearing doesn't have a cooling mechanism. It will heat up, and eventually, it will fail. Best bet, regardless of speed, is just to pop the gear selector into neutral. (I don't even use the clutch pedal to take the selector out of gear... just pull it out while you're letting off the gas pedal, and it will slide right out.)

HF wheels are steel but just over 12 pounds instead of over 15 pounds for stock wheels, VX wheels are around 11 pounds, same with HX wheels (I think), those wheels will all let you go with narrower tires.
change your tranny oil, every two years, I suspect it has been nearly 20 years on that car.

I do clutch-in coast in short bumper to bumper driving but you make a good point

One that I was considering

Also the belt has been changed a year ago as well as transmission fluid

But all will be inspected once I start my rounds

Things to get you started.
 

Well, first things first... when you do your tune up, try replacing your oil with something lighter than spec... Mobil 1 makes a good synthetic that lasts long enough to make it cost-effective, at $22 per 5 qt bottle. Use the largest filter you can come up with that fits... an FL-1A might fit, I'm not sure. You'll have to ask around on some Honda forums, or maybe even in here. Use the largest filter you can get, for higher capacity and better oil cooling, and longer change intervals. If you get the 0w30 oil, it performs on the same standard as 5w30 oils.

Change your plugs and wires, just for the sake of doing it, even if they're not bad... you won't need to change them again for god-knows-how-long.

Check that your wheel bearings are moving as freely as possible, and all suspension components are operating as they should.

Being an Si - you have power steering, most likely... this can be removed, if you can't find a manual rack to use (I have one), then you can just loop the lines together. You'll have a slightly different steering ratio using a manual rack.

If your tires need to be replaced, 155 R13 tires on '84 Si wheels are just about the lightest option. If this isn't light enough, you can use load "E" trailer tires... they're steel wheels, 5.30x12" They also have a 4x100 bolt pattern on the 4 lug wheels. (I use Honda wheels on my trailer... ) I don't necessarily recommend the trailer tire thing unless you're staying in the city and not going much over 45... but I've never tried it, so I can't say if it's safe. I can't imagine why not, since they're rated higher than passenger tires are, but meh, someone will have something to say about it.

Please, check to make sure your headlights are properly aligned. After doing so, close up all the holes around the hood and above the bumper. You can fill in about 80% of the bumper grille even in HOT weather using the stock engine, if your cooling system is completely operational.

Check/clean/replace ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL THE GROUNDS on the car... not just the one by the battery, not just the one on the head cover, ALL OF THEM. You can usually get another 1-2 MPG by doing this, as you lessen the electrical load on the engine (alternator) by cleaning up the flow path of electrons. You can also upgrade the primary grounds with high-conductive wire and lugs. (You can get wire from stereo shops, you can make lugs from soft copper tubing.)

If you don't use the sunroof, you can remove the glass and replace it with aluminum or fiberglass, etc... this will save you a good deal of weight, and keep the interior cooler during the summer.

Before you go spending a boat load of money on the engine that's in it, consider getting yourself a D15Z1 or a D16Y8 head and any other D15 block if you know how to build engines or can learn.

If you take the latter option, you'll still need the ECU/wiring setup for the Z1, but it's a cheaper way (sometimes) of getting that engine together.

thanks for the info, good stuff

ill try to maintain it but if something happens along the way

theres always the ev route

Crx
 

I can only speak for the 1st-gen CRX.I did a nose overfascia with integral grille-bock,front wheel-well gap-fillers,rocker panel extensions,under-body cleanup,full rear wheel skirts,over-hatch bi-wing spoiler integrated into a 12-inch boattail with full underside,and Moonies.------------ The "kit" added 8.6-mpg at a constant 55-mph,pushing mpg from 52,to 60.6 mpg ave.The cars personal best was 75.8 mpg between Cloudcroft,N.M. and Denton ,TX.Top speed increased from 93-mph to 100 mph ( close to sea-level ).

cool stuff

got a link to your thread or pictures?

id love to see the nose and boat tail




also

its not really worth $300 when you can go to the store and copy it for $20

but hows the aero on this?

http://216.127.73.145/~holly/images/...lers/49229.jpg

pictures
 

Alohaspirit,I'm gonna try and link some pics from my photo album in the archive.Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - Ecomodder.com Fuel Economy Forum 155-1991-after visit-rocky-mountain-institute-itworks-aero.html------------------ http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-ae...ml------------ Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com - aerohead's Album: Other vehicles 1 - Picture

the first link didnt quite work but the other two did

but that is EXACTLY what I was looking for

awesomeness

3rd photo
 

Here's another try at the photo link------------------------------------------- Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com - aerohead's Album: Other vehicles 1 - Picture

its alive!

neutral coast all the way

aero mods
 

From my experience at Bonneville,I'd say skip any mods in front of the rear wheels and go directly to full rear skirts and at least 12-inches of boat tail.The rear of the car is responsible for most of the drag reduction and fuel economy.All the front mods barely showed at the trap.Honda has done a very good job for a car this short.

i heard someone mention that rear wheel skirts will parachute if used without a bellypan


any info on this?

parachute
 

I think Wagonman experienced a scenario which led to him abandoning the skirts on the Celebrity.That I cannot explain.I've never encountered anything in the published literature,that report that skirts can add drag,however,in aero,its prudent to look at everything on a case-specific basis.-------- With respect to the CRX,you will not encounter this problem.Also,the performance of a boat-tail is compromised by the deletion of the skirts as they help provide clean,energetic air onto the tail.It's a synergy that needs to be respected.