Different Delivery Driver's problems (SC Buick PA town only advice)
So long story short, mom died so I got a volt because I just started getting into hypermiling, lost it after having to move back from Seattle, traded for a '00 Ford focus for a delivery job I got immediately. Focus died and I was forced to buy another car, cheapest civic nearby was in another town and damaged and priced down to $5900, best deal in town was this Buick Park Avenue for $3600, bought it and trying to manage anything above epa.
So do any of you have any experience with superchargers and eeking out mpg? I fully understand a smaller turbo engine would've been better, I was trying to get a turbo beetle, but that didn't work out. Also have a scangauge and have it mostly calibrated, for a few tanks. Accelerating slow, keeping it closed loop, coasting, keying off long lights, taking shortest or least trafficky routes, and minimizing idling. I've kept track of actually work miles and gas mileage for those Nils and I'm averaging 23.5 this week with a constant snow/slush setting, I'm betting things will improve in the warmer months, but the engine warms up beautifully and stays sufficiently heated throughout the day. Also, it's not a pizza delivery job, so I don't actually have a wage, so using as little as possible while hovering around the speed limit is vital. Thanks in advance for any advice! (Last thread I made ended in "Why don't you just ride a bike?" So I haven't posted in a couple years) |
impressive mileage from a buick ultra for city driving already, 23.5 in the winter, they're only rated like 16-17 city. if youre doing stop and go driving, a lighter vehicle would benefit you more than anything
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Yeah, but the compensation per delivery averages out to be about $6.40 per hour, so that definitely pays for gas, but were I not using any, like I could with the Volt, it would be pure profit (that's what kills me).
So about superchargers, from what I've found online, they steadily boost throughout the torque band depending on the rpm, so with acceleration in closed loop (it opens so easily, and the Focus never would), what RPM should I be aiming for? I only found out about the open loop thing halfway through this work week because I've never encountered it before, and after, I was very gentle with acceleration (and we had another snow storm) so it hasn't opened since, but I'd like to accelerate at a decent pace once this all clears up so I can keep up with traffic and not get fingered lol. One thing I feel like I've got going for me with this car as opposed to the others I've had, is this one has a much better weight to power ratio, even without the supercharger. And if anyone's wondering, in terms of the transmission it's not flat towable, there's no DFCO, and neutral yields no benefit because coasting in drive keeps it moving farther at the same GPH. |
I would recommend an old Geo Metro, or an 80's Honda, something with a manual 5 speed.
You have spent a lot of money!!!!!! The affordable above mentioned are alive and well in Portland, and Seattle Craig's lists. I could maybe even help deliver one to you? |
You're right about one thing, I've spent a lot of money, and because of that I've next to none of it left, so I can't just go buy another car, I haven't even put plates on this one yet. Besides, I'm not in the Portland/Seattle area anymore. Not even close.
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a volt wouldnt really be better though... according to 2011 Chevrolet Volt Verdict - Motor Trend the Volts depreciation over 3yrs was (39,995 - 16,797) $23198 divided out by 3yrs, 52 weeks, 40hrs week... you could figure it costs $3.72 an hour in depreciation as a work vehicle any other job, even with the ridiculously low 5.15 wyoming min. wage would be a better deal |
Alright, I get the feeling I'm not very welcome here, I'm going to go back to anon lurking.
But first: So when I traded in my Volt, I only got a deal of a $10,000 check and an old beat up Focus, so your estimations are rather optimistic. And the Wyoming minimum wage is $7.50. And in terms of finding another job, because that's so easy, over 500 people showed up at the local Menards for a part time job, many of which ended up not being able to apply that day because it took so long to get through so many people. So you precious ecomodders who have the ability to buy and sell and build cars with what seems like chump change to you guys, I wish you all the best of luck, because I, unfortunately, cannot lose another mother and get another few vehicles to throw away. Maybe I'll just ride a bike? /wrist |
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I buy my vehicles for around $1,300. usually.
I basically was offering my time to help purchase, and deliver to you a far west UNSALTED car. I think you might need a patience pill, Cheers! |
I deliver pizza in my civic 4 speed, and while its a much more effecient car than a buick, some tips will help. i get better city mileage than i do highway, or at least break even. 43-44 while delivering. im still waiting for the snow to melt to install my HF transmission and get rid of the throttle body injection for multipoint.
1. TAKE IT EASY ON THE GAS PEDAL. hold your foot very very steady and accelerate so slow its almost painful. if your cruising red lights or stops signs it wont bother the people behind you 2. shut your car off. every time you park. I shut my car off every time im coasting or pulling up to a stop. this may damage your automatic tho, so i wouldnt advise shutting the motor off while you are rolling. 3. learn your "break down" points for every road you commonly travel on. there may be a more proper term for this, but learn when you can let off the gas pedaa while traveling at the speed limit, and coast to a stop sign or red light or turn without having to use the break pedal. i usually use a land mark like a speed limit sign or a mail box. i have them memorized for about 8-10 of the roads and turns i make returning to the store (and of course the ones for my house) |
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