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4ringcircus 10-23-2010 10:25 AM

Electric Clutch Power Steering
 
I have added an electric clutch to the hydraulic power steering and now can switch it on and off with the push of a button! My truck is a '97 Ford Ranger extended cab, 4x4 with the 4.0 OHV engine and manual 5 speed transmission.

First the back story: It occurred to me that my old AC unit hadn't worked in years, and as I needed a new serpentine belt, why not get the non-AC belt? With the belt off, I noticed that the electric clutch on the AC unit allowed the pulley to spin freely, so I really wasn't improving mpg's by not having the belt on the old AC. On the other hand, the power steering pump took a good bit of effort to turn. So as an experiment, I swapped my new belt on to the AC and left it off the power steering. I instantly felt the power difference. Of course, as many have noticed, it is nearly impossible to drive without power steering (try it on a 4.0 v6 4x4 with an old Ford Twin Traction Beam~ the axle alone weighs over 200 lbs)
I did some research and found a few DIY's electric conversions, but they seemed expensive, complicated, and prone to electric gremlins. Then I came across a few threads mentioning the electric clutch, but no DIY’s. That's when the beer kicked in and I thought, "hey, I've got one of those clutch things on my broken AC unit... why not put it on my power steering?" Stupid question. Thankfully to my fellow ecomodders, I had plenty of beer so here's the DIY.

http://imageshack.us/a/img259/5436/29106720.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img259/5436/29106720.png


1. Removed the old AC pump. I believe there is a law requiring old AC systems to be professionally emptied. I figured mine was already empty as my AC hadn't worked for years, and I decided to just take the pump off. A few twists of the wrench and the high pressure blast blew the wrench out of my hand.

2. Cut the electric clutch off of the AC pump: Yes, it can be removed without destroying the pump, but there is no way to attach the electric clutch to the power steering... it is designed to fit on the AC and that's it. The easiest solution I could come up with was to use the AC itself as a bracket for the electric clutch.... which meant sawing the front of the AC off. (should have seen the sparks!:eek:). I needed to keep about 1/3 inch worth of the AC at most, otherwise the clutch would stick out too far to align with the serpentine belt. Notice the old screw holes that held the pump together. I used these to attach the remains of the AC unit to the power steering mounting arm.

http://imageshack.us/a/img805/6941/36834236.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img805/6941/36834236.png


3. My next step was to remove the power steering pump and mounting arm, then remove the pulley from the power steering pump. Ford has a special designed pulley puller. I rented mine to save a few bucks. With the electric clutch, power steering, and mounting arm removed, I went over to the work bench for the rest of the build.

4. Once at the work bench, I made two fortunate discoveries. First, the shaft on the pump was basically the same size as the shaft hole of the clutch, allowing me to slide the two together. Second, the bolts holes on the pump and clutch were almost the same radius from their respective centers! Although the bolt patters were different, this meant that I could align the two pieces on the mounting arm by reusing the most conveniently positioned hole, and simply drill holes in the mounting arm for the other clutch bolts.

Hole "A" in the photo below was the best option for reusing. I started by reattaching the power steering pump to the mounting arm using holes "D" and "E".

I then slid the electric clutch over the power steering shaft and lined up hole "A". This aligned the three parts. You can see where I reamed out hole "A" in the clutch to get the bolt through. With everything aligned, I placed a drill bit in holes "B" and "C", and drilled through the mounting arm allowing me to secure the clutch with holes A, B, and C, while mounting the pump with holes A, D, and E.


http://imageshack.us/a/img835/6171/picture2bja.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img835/6171/picture2bja.png


5.a. The worst part of the job. The old power steering pulley was a press fit, while the electric clutch was designed to go on a grooved shaft. I'll spare the details, but I am on my third attempt and hope this doesn't break (UPDATE~ it is now 2013 and this third attempt has help up for the past two years): I bought a 1/2 inch thread tapper drilled out then tapped 1 inch into the power steering shaft.

http://imageshack.us/a/img594/5369/15767743.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img594/5369/15767743.png


5.b. Then I used a half inch, 3-inch long grade 8 steel bolt and used a thread cutter to thread it to the bottom. I needed to thread it to the bottom in order to put a nut on it... important for use in step 8. http://imageshack.us/a/img69/7059/42735834.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img69/7059/42735834.png


6. I took the magnetic plate of the clutch, slid the 3 inch bolt through it, and added spacers. These spacers hold the magnetic plate off of the clutch pulley, thus allowing the contraption to be disengaged. I used 4 washers and one locking washer.... Also important for step 8.
http://imageshack.us/a/img853/6430/80689558.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img853/6430/80689558.png


7a. The final assembly: First, I attached the clutch to the mounting arm. http://imageshack.us/a/img17/6236/52615705.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img17/6236/52615705.png

7b. With the whole unit secured down to my work bench, I carefully threaded the the power steering pump into place. This was very tricky. If the three power steering bolts (A, D, & E) are not threaded the same amount, the pump will be slightly cantilevered causing in the grade 8 bolt to hit the inside of the clutch rather than spin freely. It just took trial and error, but as I tightened everything down, I frequently rotated the grade 8 bolt a full 360 degrees to check for clearance.
A few extra pictures for this step:
http://imageshack.us/a/img221/5944/39449893.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img268/34/75298537.png

8. Now for the nut on the grade 8 bolt from step 5b and the washers from step 6. I simply tightened the bolt down till the clutch plate pressed locking washer tight. As with everything in the job, it took a few attempts for me to get it right, but this is how I figured out how many washers to use: With the right amount of washers, I had a slight space between the pulley and the electromagnet, allowing the pulley to turn freely until the electricity was turned on. With too many washers, the gap was too large for the electromagnet to work; too few and the electromagnet would already be tight against the pulley (permanently engaged).
http://imageshack.us/a/img202/5972/56896197.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img202/5972/56896197.png

9. With everything put together, I reattached the mounting arm to the engine and the belt. Naturally, the last phase of the project is to wire a new relay. There are plenty of good DIY's on relay's, so I'll skip that one here. I set mine up with a nice push-button switch.

dcb 10-23-2010 10:37 AM

Now THATS what I'm talking about :)

FYI, if you right click on dem images you can "copy image location" to the clipboard and paste them into img tags:


[img]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs179.ash2/44270_445114318873_571893873_5032176_4046238_n.jpg[/img]


http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4046238_n.jpg

dcb 10-23-2010 10:48 AM

Also a controller to turn the pump on at say, below 5mph, would be fairly simple.

tjts1 10-23-2010 11:29 AM

Great idea. I hope you get the pics fixed.

4ringcircus 10-23-2010 01:40 PM

A controller sounds nice, but might be dangerous. You really have to drive this to understand how instantaneous the 'on-off' is. When I finished, I let buddy drive it around the block. When he came back and pulled up, he was laughing so hard he nearly fell out of the drivers seat! I think his exact words were "It goes from completely un-drivable to bones stock-you'd never know anything was different". I think the manual control is important cause you got to be ready for it!:p

dcb 10-23-2010 01:49 PM

Yah, I know what you mean. When I bump start my little saturn in a corner (frequently), it is very easy to oversteer as the pump kicks in immediately. It is made more manageable by the fact that I'm in control of the timing of the bump start.

NiHaoMike 10-23-2010 06:03 PM

For all that work, couldn't you just get a 14.4v cordless drill motor (easy to find one for free when the battery goes out) and attach it to the pump? You can even reuse the PWM circuit.

TomO 10-23-2010 06:31 PM

Nice DIY! Beer does solve some things!

RobertSmalls 10-23-2010 06:57 PM

How about a controller to automatically turn it on whenever you're in 5th gear?

Have you taken the truck on the highway yet? I bet it feels more stable and easier to drive.

Weather Spotter 10-23-2010 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NiHaoMike (Post 200485)
For all that work, couldn't you just get a 14.4v cordless drill motor (easy to find one for free when the battery goes out) and attach it to the pump? You can even reuse the PWM circuit.

would one of these have the power to run the pump at the speed needed? My junk drill is good for 1400 rpm max. Would there be enough torque?

NiHaoMike 10-23-2010 07:25 PM

You don't need the pump to turn very fast.

dcb 10-23-2010 08:37 PM

I suppose that's true, the wheels turn easier at higher speeds, and turn just fine at idle, don't know if a cordless has the oomph, but a thought all the same.

Still it's cool that someone reused an AC clutch :)

Weather Spotter 10-23-2010 08:54 PM

I have a full week, but I might look and see if I could make it work off the drill.

RobertSmalls 10-23-2010 10:23 PM

If you want to convert to electrohydraulic power steering, you could source a 12V GM power steering pump, which I'm pretty sure are not just a figment of my imagination. But it wouldn't really solve the problem unless it has a good controller that shuts the motor off when you're not steering.

IsaacCarlson 10-24-2010 01:01 AM

I nominate this thread for sticky material!!!:thumbup:

autoteach 10-24-2010 02:19 AM

How do you keep the ford power steering unit from overflowing when it is not being turned by the serp belt?

Frank Lee 10-24-2010 02:43 AM

The often dreamed about, often talked about, but never seen clutched xxx DOES exist! :eek:

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...er/unicorn.jpg

Robert: Opposite: Want power assist in 1st gear and reverse only

auto: likely the steering movements are so small at speed the pumping isn't an issue.

All the same, I wanna go manual box on my stuff for the simplicity and 100% of the time elimination of that parasitic loss. Same idea with non-power master brake cylinder.

4ringcircus 10-24-2010 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by autoteach (Post 200536)
How do you keep the ford power steering unit from overflowing when it is not being turned by the serp belt?

I am glad you asked as this is an unexpected side affect that I have experienced. While watching it the first few weeks I noticed the cap wasn't seated correctly~ kept fixing it but it always seemed crooked the next time I checked. Just yesterday I began suspecting air pressure. However, it's been a month since the conversion and I'd say it only needed a table spoon of ATF.

4ringcircus 10-24-2010 11:12 AM

[QUOTE=Frank Lee;200537]The often dreamed about, often talked about, but never seen clutched xxx DOES exist! :eek:

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...er/unicorn.jpg

!!!Thanks Frank. I promise to let that go straight to my head.

autoteach 10-24-2010 05:02 PM

turn the steering wheel side to side in the drive way. After a few times it will start to spray out the vent hole in the top of the cap.

Frank Lee 10-24-2010 05:17 PM

Maybe a bigger reservoir or a cap/reservoir thing could be fabbed up to contain the displaced fluid. Or perhaps it can be run a bit low intentionally so that it is less likely to puke up. Or probably being very vigilant about not making large lock-to-lock maneuvers when the power is "off" would take care of it.

autoteach 10-24-2010 06:38 PM

All I know is that when we push a ford out or back in to the shop it sprays everywhere. It doesnt take long for it to overcome the airspace in the reservoir.

dcb 10-24-2010 06:46 PM

ah well, keep the level under observation and see if it stabilizes I guess.

JasonG 10-25-2010 01:05 PM

Flyby post:
Some sports car company was making speed sensitive steering, but i don't remember who.
Guess they were being ecco and didn't know it !

Dr. Jerryrigger 11-12-2010 12:14 AM

It would be rather simple to rig up a limit switch so that it turned on after 10deg of turning, but that may kill you. Also some switches at the base of the shifter could make it be on for 1, R and maybe 2, but it would shut down between gears. With big bag of switches and a micro possessor you could rig up something almost safe (until a switch breaks).
I just hope a deer (or a kid) doesn't jump out in front of you when you have it off, and your going slow (but not slow enough to stop).
Quote:

Originally Posted by JasonG (Post 200723)
Flyby post:
Some sports car company was making speed sensitive steering, but i don't remember who.
Guess they were being ecco and didn't know it !

I think most car companies are doing that now, at least on some models. My girlfriend's '89 Toyota Cressada has it (though it was one of the first cars to offer it), every Subaru 2000 or newer has is. It's not rigged up the same way, and may not help over all eff at all, as far as I know it was only advertised as a "better feel for the road" type thing.

ECONORAM 11-23-2010 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobertSmalls (Post 200520)
If you want to convert to electrohydraulic power steering, you could source a 12V GM power steering pump, which I'm pretty sure are not just a figment of my imagination. But it wouldn't really solve the problem unless it has a good controller that shuts the motor off when you're not steering.

VW has a speed sensitive steering of sorts, and I know you can buy an electric ps pump for Toyota MR2s and for Ford Escort Hybrids.

I have been researching a similar idea, but using an electric motor to drive the ps pump via a belt. Grand plans include a shut-off at approx 25 mph which should help cut fuel use...

dwtaylorpdx 11-24-2010 03:17 AM

Random INput.....

BMW and others are using full electric power steering with no hydraulics.

I think the gear selected assist is the best, You already have the reverse light switch just attach a second switch for 1st gear, even an automatic would work with it... You could add a RPM switch to prevent it from activating if the RPM's were too high to save the clutch.

A dirt track pump would be a better choice than the ford or use a Jeep wrangler pump, it has a remote tank as well and its tiny... They also sell very lightweight and strong steering racks.

Dodge trucks have a electric clutch on the fan.... And its whomper...

Dave

dcb 11-24-2010 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr. Jerryrigger (Post 203679)
It would be rather simple to rig up a limit switch so that it turned on after 10deg of turning, but that may kill you. Also some switches at the base of the shifter could make it be on for 1, R and maybe 2, but it would shut down between gears. With big bag of switches and a micro possessor you could rig up something almost safe (until a switch breaks).
I just hope a deer (or a kid) doesn't jump out in front of you when you have it off, and your going slow (but not slow enough to stop).

Just swap in a manual box before jerry calls you a baby killer...

4ringcircus 02-23-2012 09:53 PM

Update. Been driving the truck for the last year and a half and it has been trouble free. I use it when parking, turning street corners, and clover leafs. I have not added power steering fluid; simply turning it on with some regularity keeps it from overflowing.

I would not recommend fancy electronics to automate turning it on or off. The 'power assist' turns on and off instantly, and it comes down to safety: I need to know I am turning it on or off as the effort required to steer is suddenly and drastically different.

My best tank of gas was 24 mpg's... on a 4x4 extended cab!

racerc2000 02-24-2012 11:16 AM

push button switch on the steering wheel?

Uncle Dave 10-28-2012 05:30 PM

Air Craft use 400 Hz motors. They are interested in weight. Now that we are using Electric Steering, and Cooling fans, they may reduce their weight Slightly.

Just thinking.

snakub 10-29-2012 01:07 AM

So what was the mpg increase on this?

oil pan 4 10-29-2012 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snakub (Post 336685)
So what was the mpg increase on this?

1-2MPGs
Power steering delete - EcoModder

Wanderin 11-08-2012 08:19 PM

Are the pics from this a thing of the past, or is it just me and my super paranoid browser settings?

4ringcircus 11-11-2012 10:29 PM

Just redid the images, so hopefully they work.

4ringcircus 12-22-2012 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snakub (Post 336685)
So what was the mpg increase on this?

Yes, it was between 1 mpg and 1.5 mpg.

MetroMPG 06-17-2013 05:02 PM

I am amazed that I could have missed this thread, way back when it was first posted. So I'm glad someone referred to it in another thread today, and I've posted it on the front page for all to see.

I loved Frank's reaction...

Quote:

The often dreamed about, often talked about, but never seen clutched xxx DOES exist!
There is one other project I know of where someone retrofitted an electromagnetic clutch to a truck to take control of an accessory... but it was to add on-demand regenerative braking to an EV conversion.

ECONORAM 06-25-2013 07:52 PM

Well, now that the 2013 RAMs have electric power steering, I wonder how much they ask for the steering rack. Figure it can't be that hard to retrofit...
It still annoys me how one can't just go to the local auto parts store and buy a clutch, without the a/c compressor.

justme1969 06-26-2013 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ECONORAM (Post 377891)
It still annoys me how one can't just go to the local auto parts store and buy a clutch, without the a/c compressor.

This must be another new thing as I worked at auto stupid back in 97 and 98 and they did sell them then. I will explore this a little.
Mabe just a sorry sales person, I also get them most of the time.
Look for an auto stupid in amongst or near dealerships, that is going to be a supplier yes your genuine GM ends up being guess who lots of times?

oil pan 4 06-29-2013 11:18 PM

I finely got around to measuring how much power it takes to turn a P/S pump.
It looks like if you can keep the P/S turning at 850rpms it takes hardly any power to turn, around 150 to 200 watts.
But when you bring it up to a more normal cruse speed say about 2,000 rpms power draw goes up quite a bit. It took a little over 500 watts to keep it turning at that speed.

For my suburban 500w gets about half MPG.


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