Experiment: smooth wheel discs tested A-B-A - 4.6% mpg improvement @ 65 mph
 

I drive a 2nd gen S10 (2000) extd. cab and I've got some data on wheel covers

noticed changes in scangauge readings after installing covers
So I went out in search of A-B-A and (~250 miles later) found +1.3 mpg
On ~28 mpg runs - That is about 4-5% - depending on how you want to figure it
(I've got lots of info on methodology & data if anyone cares to see it)

This is in the ball park of aeroheads posted data for wheel cover savings:
http://http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aero-mods-data-change-cd-change-installment-7-a-2684.html

I realize most vehicles (even S10s) may not see that kind of improvement
but have stock "swirlies" and they are very un-aerodynamic
where I live here in Kansas - there are bunches of S10 with these wheels
they aren't bad wheels for stock - aluminum & only ~15 lbs
for those of you who have not seen what I am talking about I have attached photos

also I have an after pic of the covers on the truck
As for my covers - I'm sure you are desperate to know who makes these aerodynamic wonders....
check out pic 3 - Walmart 16" pizza pans - $2.97 ea.:cool:

Concrete: encouraging results! Yes, please, post your methodology.

I agree with your assessment of the OEM alloy wheels; they are far from the aerodynamic ideal. And the worse the starting point, the more likely smoothies will make a measureable improvement.

Methodology of wheel disk test
 

The story-

been reading at Ecomodders and slowly modding truck
here is where the truck is at for this testing:
Tune up, Bed cover, E-fan, high end tire pressure, upper grill block.
Scan gauge, driver adjustment

with wheel covers I started to see +30mpg regularly - streight & level - A milestone!
but wheel covers were not suppose to make much difference, right?
I had only put them on so my wheels were not cupping air into the wheel skirts I intended to make
I had not done much aero testing so I was starting from scratch

So I spent an hour and a half driving around trying to get good high speed data
A-B-A-B-A-B.... it became a test of will - nearly 100 miles later I had developed a method
and I got three runs I trusted A-B-A
31.6
30.6
31.7mpg
not very rigorus, but I had convinced myself I had ~1 mpg drag reduction


The Method
Here is where I better explain what my proceedure looks like

basically it is a running start with curise control set at 65mph
scan gauge average calculator is reset at a milage sign post
route is 4 lane interstate - level but with two over passes - gentle curve 90 degrees
outbound is 3.3 miles - return is 3.1 miles - nearly symetric
clover leaf turn around is not in test to reduce the varience I was getting
nearly symetric path back for a two way run - scan gauge reset for return trip
all controls are set the same - vent on - fan#2 setting - radio & lights but nothing else
tested late at night for consistent temp and low traffic
tested in no wind conditions (yes it can happen in Kansas sometimes)

"wasted" a lot of gas - but now have a great baseline for future improvements

I should have stopped - But I didn’t
I knew to convince the Ecomodder community & thus get some data out on wheel covers
Even more testing would have to be done - so I did it

Data to follow

s10 wheel cover test data
 

+150 miles later heres the data (raw)

................................out bound........Return..................Average
With wheel covers..........28.5.............29.2
...................................29.8........... ..30.7
...................................29.2........... ..29.7
...................................29.4........... ..29.8
...................................29.7........... ..30.1....................29.6 mpg

Wheel covers removed....28.0.............28.2
...................................28.0........... ..28.5*
...................................28.0........... ..28.2
...................................27.7**......... .27.7**................28.0 mpg

With wheel covers..........29.0.............29.5
..................................28.8............ ..28.0 **
..................................28.7............ ..29.5
..................................28.8 ..............29.4...............29.0 mpg

(sorry about the odd table format - got to be abetter way- but I don't know it :o)

A-B-A average 29.3 mpg with vs. 28.0 mpg without

* scan gage was reset 0.2 miles into course due to possible semi interference, so this run is .2 miles shorter
** I may have punched it too hard on acceleration - the ECU seems to stay in a higher performance/ lower FE mode for ~90 seconds or so after +50TPS - My bad - not very Hypermiler like. very noticable loses in real time at beginning of course - not too much difference in the averages over the course.

Variances noted, but all data is used in findings

So on average, you saw a 1.3 mpg improvement @ 65 mph, or 4.6%

It's a lot of work to go out and collect data like this. Nice job.

Re. the cruise control - did you set it once and leave it "on" for all A & B runs, and just cancel it with the brake?

That's terrific!

So, how did you attach the pizza trays?

yes, the whole test is "on the fly"
when I enter and leave the course - the only thing I touch is the scan gauge
I found that any other influences created too much error - even a brake tap
everything is setup and in place at least ~1/2 mile before I start taking data
it helps the ECU settle in to cruise
If I had made the pre-run longer - I probably would have fewer asterisks
but it took long enough as it was

I haven't run standard deviation calculations ( I have an aversion to statistics :))
but I have gone this far - I guess I should dust the brain cells off and just do it

Disclaimer:
there are better ways to attach wheel covers
especially if you have steel wheels - you can just drill and tap them

but in my case I tried to use the existing hub cover
drilled a hole for a 1/4" screw in the center of hub cover

two-part epoxy two washers & a nylon locking nut on the inside of my hub covers
first washer is for spreading load and giving the nut a bigger foot print
the second washer I fashioned a hex shaped hole to keep the nut from spinning use epoxy on it too (see pic #1)
held it all together with a screw while hardening (screw was oil coated to keep it from being glued on as well)

so in essence I have a tapped hub cover (see pic #2)

benefits: I can remove my wheel covers and it looks stock except a 1/4" hole in middle of my hub cover

down side: the wheel cover can spin since there is only a center fastener
(between a tight fit on the covers in the wheel and notches for wheel weights - that has not been a show stopper - but I have one wheel that will click occasionally on a hard stop)

Thanks for your work on this project. It's good for people to see some empirical measurements.

Concrete -

I had the same idea because I have the "center caps", but I didn't execute it because I was worried about wobble and them unscrewing themselves. If you could find reverse screws and nuts, and kept track of the placement, you could install them so that they are always being tightened when the tires roll in the forward direction.

I'm also a big believer in extra washers to "spread the load", :thumbup: .

CarloSW2

Hmmm, how about using more than one fixing?

I figured as much, but I wanted to get that tidbit into the thread so others can see the extent you went to get quality data.

Again, nice work!

Well I'm already committed - the epoxy is set... wait a minute!
:eek: you are right - pause... running out and inspecting truck...

- the Right and side will want to tightening during breaking and the left on Acceleration.
that would explain my LH front is "clicking" during breaking
and I'm sure I'm breaking harder than accelerating
need to watch the LH for loosening and the RH too - for tightening
could crush covers or puncture my Right front bearing cap that is just under the hub cover:eek:

the wheel weights should protect me from too much movement but...
I think I will mark the screw to the cover - so I can note any relative movement easily
and I'll just replace Left front - it is a bit warped anyway - A-B-A-B-A... was hard on the thin covers

Thanks cfg83

I totally agree (that is why I had the disclaimer)
but I was uncomfortable drilling and tapping my aluminum wheels
The plastic hub cover is easily replaceable if/when I screw one up :)
especially since I was not expecting any real FE gain when I started

still not willing to risk much in this -
I figure I'm up to a 35 tank pay back already on this mod (25 just in the testing fuel)

Hi Concrete, I meant use more than one fixing in the hubcap. But I can see looking again at yours that isn't practical. Congratulations on your testing and findings by the way.

Power to you, Concrete, but that sounds a bit too complicated. :(

I am seriously considering buying these instead:

Full Moon Racing Disc Hubcaps, Stylish Look, Great Prices, AutoAmenity.com

:thumbup:

yep full moons would be great:thumbup:

but right now I am too cheap/broke:(
and the pay back is only $2-3 a tank even for me and my un-aero wheels & low FE ride

Concrete, No need to justify your methods to me. I'm all on board with the make it/do it yourself bits and pieces.

Problem is, I just can't be boltin' home-made goodies on my 2006 Civic ... it looks brand new and the quality of items I would be able to make just wouldn't look right. If my car was at least 4-5 years old, OK, maybe.

So, I'm ordering those solid hubcaps this weekend. :thumbup:

As a matter of fact, I'll see your cheapskate move and go one better ... desert trays at the Christmas Tree Shoppes for $1.99. They come with a plastic cover (which I'd toss into a recycling bin) and use the flat, aluminized tray for a wheel cover. They're also lighter than a pizza tray. ;)

No, if I can only find some factory-finished rear wheel skirts ...

Standard Deviation Calculations
 

I have been putting off the standard deviation calculations
I have a lot of excuses as to why - but really it was just putting it off:o

There are a lot of ways to do this
- especially since my out bound and return routes are similar but not identical paths

lets do it the easy way

all wheel cover data = ave 29.3 mpg - std dev .63
all without covers data = ave 28.0 mpg - std dev .27

Darin - thanks for the reminder that spreadsheets do std Dev calcs:thumbup:
other wise I would still be putting this off:rolleyes:

Out of curiosity: Has anyone made transparent wheel covers? That way you'd get to still have nice looking wheels while improving your CoD.

Daihatsu did, on their concept car:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...e-ii-4374.html

Hey guys,

For slip-on hubcaps (no restraining bolts), what is the safest way to take them off?

1) Pry from the outer edge with a screwdriver
2) Pull straight off with hands by holding spokes
3) Other

I think it depends on the cover ... but I think the best way is to pry the edges (carefully) all the way around until the cover pops off.

Of course, with my new full moon covers, that's the only option I have. ;)

Clear covers? I think they'd get dirty, scratched and pitted quickly ... then look very, very poor. :p

If anyone still had doubts on that one...

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1222521662

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1222521662

Great find, tas. What's the source?

SAE paper 2007-01-1047 The Influence of Rotating Wheels on Total Road Load

Those aftermarket rims are "air blenders"!

It's interesting to note that the exposed 19 inch rim is the worst case, but when masked, it's the 2nd best case - better than the masked 17 inch rim.

To me that suggests the shrinking gap between tire and wheel arch (you can see the progression in the photos) may be having a beneficial effect. And it may be even more significant if they didn't control for tire width as well (they apparently didn't control for overall circumference, so I'd be surprised if they did control for width).

Hello Bror,

These do not have valve stem holes -- do you have to use short stems that don't stick out, and you have to pull the cover to check the pressure and/or add air?

Or, could you drill a hole? Or, is there a company that sells these with the hole already there?

Neil, I bought the 16" full moon discs and have had them on my car for about 6 weeks. I posted pics in the "Racing Discs, Are They Worth It?" thread.

I can't say I can discern any difference in mileage as the air temps around here have dropped about 15-20 degrees since August. This should have a larger, negative effect than the discs' positive one. As the air temps drop, my mileage follows. It's been this way with every car I've ever owned.

Anyway, mine are solid with no access holes to check tire pressures (there are places inside the cover (gaps in the 'teeth') for the valve stem but you have to remove them to check the pressure. However, I think this will take just a minute or so with a flat-head screwdriver.

Drilling through them should be possible as they are fairly thin metal ... but I would not advise it. I'm not sure the benefits outweigh the damage done to the not-exactly-cheap discs. :(

smoothies
 

Thanks Concrete! It is alot of work and I'm glad you weren't punished for your good deed!

Time to retape my hubcaps then! :D Good find tas!

You are right about the gap reduction. An interesting thing to note is that if all wheels were also blocked from the inside, the 17 inches and 19 inches wheels would do better than the steel rim. The reason for larger taped wheels to perform less than the 15 inches steel wheel with cover is that the disk brake cover most of the wheel opening from inside airflow in the smaller one, wheras there is a huge gap on the larger diameter wheels which increases ventilation resistance a lot. It would have be interesting to see them test something like a 205/75R15 with a steel cover. I'm pretty sure that would have been the best.

The tires tested were 195/65R15, 235/45R17 and 235/35R19.

to argue the very thing that has many dynamics- left rights ups downs and even backwards...weight changes, gforce side winds front winds and brakes doing four different things. Accelerating, decelerating fwd , four wheel drive, auto and manual tranny, hubs or discs, independent suspension, solid axle...heat and torque for given engine curves as well as transaxles or axle enclosed. Electrical dissipation needed or not needed....

alloy or steel is the only question I answer. Keep the hubcaps. Alloys seem to be the champ on anything, unless they are badly made, and that is very rare today I would hope.

It seems comical in comparison to the engines to smooth wheels over a balanced part that needs to simply move every direction...when all engines have a wobbling idiot called a counterbalanced crankshaft. Fix the aero wheels, use a balanced engine. Watch the aero pursuits fade away into ridicule.

My tape is still hanging in there.. And after seeing that chart, I'm going to keep my tape!
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1.../blkgutter.jpg

hmm im curious is it possible to put on a pizza pan thats bigger than the rim? so that it covers part of the tires?
maybe that will help reduce the gap of tire and rim.

After seeing that chart, I'd be going for pizza pans. ;)

Thanks a lot for these data.

What amazes me is the Cd difference with speed. I though that for cars' speeds (30-100 mph) the Cd was constant.

Is the cover has a better result because it's convex while tape masks are flat with some concave parts ?
In first case the air is moved away from wheel arch and turbulence is limited.

I wished these documents were free... Wait, they have DRM... argh :(
SVOBoy, MetroMPG, why not add DRM protection on EM.com ? ;-)

Denis.

So, where can I find some 17" pizza pans with a 1/4" rim?? :)
A perfect 17" would over-lap the gap, and a 0.20" to 0.30" would seal the gap nicely..

Since the center of my steel rims sticks out about 1/4" above the outer edges of the rim,
I'll need to over-lap a flap disc, or buy some 17" OD discs that are concave inside..


Hummm, Hard Aluminum Sloped Side 17" Pizza Pan S17 | Pans Screens Peels And Separators | Pizza items from Wasserstrom

Is ,18 GA ALUM thick enough for this app?

check out my wheel covers and skirts.

so far its really hard to claim a mpg gain. i think it is working tough. im getting 14.2miles per litre. this is close to my previous best and i was going slightly faster with less drafting.

That's what I might try to do (if I buy some pizza pans).
Since the center of my rim sticks out about 1/4 inch.
That center area is where I would need to drill my mounting holes
and a flat disc would be floating about 1/4" above the outside edge of the rim.
So, if I could get the rolled edge of the pan to just kiss the rubber a bit,
I think that might be the perfect solution for my wheel..

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...r/CRV/M089.jpg

What do you guys think about leaving the tape under the pizza pan?
Would it help?
The only problem I can think of, is loose tape balling up on one side
and making the wheel off-balance..