Fuel pump not priming on 95 Civic
 

My 1995 Civic.. The Fuel Pump seems to not be priming. First thing to look at/do?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzPllPtElKA

fuse, power to the pump (read at the pump itself), relay energization circuit (need a wiring diagram).

bad relay
bad pump
bad ignition switch
bad ground
wiring defect in the circuit
no gas
fuel tank pickup damaged or bent where it will not pick up fuel

regards
mech

^^ Messed up engine, wetting plugs with oil? :)

you would still have a primed pump. :rolleyes:

I think I'm missing how fuel pump not running is a given. You say you were smelling fuel, then I would think that the fuel system is less likely the problem. Not hearing it run, may just be not hearing it. If that's where my thinking was, I'd want to try it again with my ear (or stethoscope) pressed against the tank while someone keys it on.
Then there's the other way http://youtu.be/mdpP4wxBvpA per the video, don't set yourself on fire

We discovered that the Fuel Pump only gets power "sometimes." (No, not like after the 2 seconds, like, sometimes it primes and sometimes doesn't. Wire issue.)

We also loosened the return line.. Yes, fuel was there too.

We also changed the fuel filter today.

Every time we heard the pump rime, there was fuel at the nut. Was loosening and tightening it all day...

The car runs on started fluid, eliminating timing concerns.. Stays running as long as is sprayed.. Dies when it lets off. Races to 4000RPMs*

The spark plug wires were horrible.. Changed them. No change. Same.

I know Hondas do some weird "cycling" of Injectors...

Present diagnosis points to "Crankshaft Position Sensor"?

On a D15Z1.. Where is that? And does this sensor cost a fortune?

This may be my next move...

4000rpm?
Is that holding the throttle open? Or just spraying at closed throttle?

Some vehicles seem to not always cycle the fuel pump when the key is repeatedly cycled, if you take the key out for 5minutes, does it reliably turn on the fuel pump the first time the key is turned on?

I had a similar problem. It turned out to be the ECU.
When you turn the key to the second click, ( just before the starter kicks in ) do you hear a slight whirring noise ? ( it lasts for around 3-4 seconds )
This would be the fuel pump priming.
If the fuel pump is priming, then I would look at the ECU.

Good luck

Distributor?

regards
mech

Today I will do a video of if the throttle cable is stretched too tight.. it may be.

I will check this today.

It primes so intermittently..

It's possible.. getting spark, though

What would I look for?

Maybe today will be sunnier and I can focus on it.

Aren't Hondas of that era known for a solder joint going bad causing the fuel pump relay (under the dash) to not work?

I think it's called the "main relay"

They are. I have a new relay in place.

Also, this is one of the reasons I won't leave BITOG alone: the knowledge base there. My goal is to sneak on, and be accepted, in time.

Ok... Sling Blade hello.. The problem was a cominbation of:

1. Improper Firing Order (see videos)
2. No ground (ground is on it now)
And.. 3. NO GAS.

Watch my YouTube in the next hour for this awesomeness.... TheJCorbi82...

And stays running....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFu9FGD3CKU

Miller GET THIS ON BITOG...

Miller88, this is for you.

Please put on BITOG somehow, maybe in the "I have to put this head on myself" update.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzlSCIa_sSU

looks like I pegged it.

bad ground
no gas
wiring defect in the circuit

still don't understand your response to that post but glad to see you got it running

regards
mech

I'm doing the valves now.

I just ran into one of my former co-worker homies, and they:

1. (Seem to have) FIXED THE IDLE. IACV electrical connector was not plugged in...

2. Told me my "Distributor was too far advanced," told me how to adjust it, demonstrated by letting me hear a "pop" sound when revving, told me that I should adjust it soon because it can damage the motor.

Nice...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YWmUHvpMAY

https://www youtube.com/watch?v=8hDRRk0WTFM

I have the bleeder screw open now. ...

That's not a good sign :(

Combustion gassses in the radiator aren't good. At first I thought on the first drive it may have been burping ... but it's definitely combustion gases.

Where are they coming from?

Block/head mating surface. Gasket isn't blown since you just put a new one in but the head may be warped or the head may not be uniformly on. The problem with using a different sized bolt, or timeserts/heli-coils is if you torque it to factory spec, it may be off a bit due to being a different setup than from the factory.

Just one reason I don't like aluminum engines; that wouldn't have been a problem at all on a cast iron engine.

Compression is probably good because the coolant that ends up making its way into the cylinder(s) is helping raise compression a bit and masking it.

My engine did not have a thermostat in it

Well... should I Blue Devil it ? ...

I wonder why? :rolleyes:

regards
mech

But Miller88, I am not losing any coolant..

Just about ready for a cleaning run, full of flush and water.. with no thermostat.. before putting in a Stat.

I should leave that in a day or so. I wonder how cold it will get tonight.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...58e3783c00.jpg

I thought in the last few videos you were adding coolant?

No sir. I wad half attempting to top off after bleeding off air, and stupidly losing coolant from forgetting to put cap on etc etc, and half attempting to make my mixture 50/50.

I have never once seen milkshake oil, I literally check the cap after every shutdown. I also don't see any abnormal coolant bubbling, I added CLR if you see "tiny bubbles" because I took my Stat housing off today and... YAAAAAH! HORROR so. Gonna give it one more super amaze-balls flush before inserting a stat.. the was no stat and it was free-flowing the whole time.

I also see the re-emergence of a fuel power delivery problem (power to the fuel pump.) Here is that video.

Now don't get me wrong, I'm not TRYING G to blow a head gasket, but I may be inclined to put sealer in, to "help" the situation.. I torqued it down as Damm good as I could given everything that went wrong and my lack of money for more appropriate or time-intensive repairs..

I can get the car to stall by wiggling fuel pump wires.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3Ml7Ruoq7Q

Gotcha!

The fuel pump wiring looks like 20 year old wiring to me. Typical of 20 year old vehicles.

Have you tried cleaning the IAC valve on the throttle body ?

If I can find someone competent, I will check it out.

Exhibit A :)

https://youtu.be/zDQHuBl26mg

Been driving for the past hour. Stopped about 4 times ...

What it does:

1. Runs perfect
2. Tenperature gauge slowly but surely creeps up..
3. I pull over, leave car to "IGN" (Ignition/run position ??) To let fan come on and cool it down . (I also sometimes hear the fan when the car shuts off.)
4. Within 5 minutes, temperature is back normal. These past two times, it has bee within the past 2 minutes, and fan even shut off early.

What could be going on?

My radiator
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...cc81b97988.jpg

Well, I think 2016 is going to be GREAT!

And, I say this, because, before doing anything else on the Honda engine, I quietly webt out, after waking up, and decided to do a... Compression test.

And, I came to the conclusion, that. THIS time. The reason the engine will not start.. IS:

... It did not "jump time"
... It doesn't have No Spark
It doesn't have a clogged Fuel Filter..
It is not out of gas, I am filling that tank today anyways, via a gas can..
And it may no longer have an air restriction..
And it's not "a wire that gives power to the Fuel Pump" ...

It is this: STUPID LOW COMPRESSION. 100-100-100-0 (1-2-3-4.)

Therefore, today, I take anything of value out of it, and make plans, somehow someway, to get a D16Z6 up in there.

A Y8 (or Y7? idk) or any kind of custom build, or 94-95 Teggy LS engine.. Those sound wonderful, but with the helper monkeys I will likely use to do this at THEIR HOUSE NOT MINE, EVEN IF I HAVE TO PAY FOR A TOW, I think a stock Z6 bolt-up would be great. I may even consider paying more for an engine from Lacey Auto Parts, that I can HEAR RUN, this time. Been down that road before.

No more paper towel things, EVER. It even ran decent just before it got sucked in. Lasted a little more than a day, of a sweet riding engine, relatively..

Better flow radiator, AC on right, all for the D16 going in. Z6.

Oh.. I also work for Advance Auto Parts now.

:good:

Plugging the vacuum leak with paper towels was probably not the best idea. I have used screws, bolts or even line plugs to plug them in the past. Are you sure there isn't paper towel holding one of the valves open?

I'm not sure, but I made serious attempt to dislodge it today. And I think I may have done it.

It is unscientific as hell, but I think I feel power slowly returning to the engine. Since we were all skeptical about this engines chances, anyways.

The latest :

https://youtu.be/7fOzuaiRyPc