Gliding instead of regen-braking - Nissan Leaf
 

Hi,
I recently made a video on some hypermiling basics for EVs, and I have also developed a feature to enable gliding whilst in Drive mode. This is not possible on the standard Nissan Leaf, so it is a very nice upgrade.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2LhAVmEWUM

Hope you like it, and this is probably no news to anyone on this forum :D

Makes sense as you lose at least 10% every time you take the energy out and try to put it back in.
Would you know of anyone who can reprogram the vcm to run quicker ramp motor ramp up rates, more torque and horsepower?

I have tried. See this thread for more info: Dala's Leaf buildthread (2015 Nissan Leaf) - Page 7 - Japtoys.net

TLDR: Inverter firmware is locked to 80kW no matter what you try to send to it.

Pretty sure it's a firmware issue since over on DIYELECTRIC, they discovered that rapid ramp up caused the power controlling silicon to "ring" then self destruct. You could parallel a fairly high resistance to the pedal pot and get a similar effect but within the control parameters.

Ok that was always a possibility. How about speeding up the motor ramp up rates?
I think now in factory form I can't get 80kw going to the motor until it's spinning fast enough to be going at least 55kph. What if the motor could be brought up to full power at say 40kph.
Eco can stay eco but make D, since it's a 2011 the trailer pulling and logging mode.
I'm going to go read that now.

Here are some of the horrible things I do to the leaf.
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...-36505-11.html
Reason why a bigger battery and more motor power would be very welcome.

Ok wow that is fascinating.
They ran the leaf drive line for over 3 hours at power levels that would kill the battery anywhere between 20 and 30 minutes.
At maximum power consumption 94mph my leaf is usually drawing less than 40kw on level ground.
So it looks like 80kw of power and about 256nm of torque are the hard stops.
What's the lowest RPM where 256mn could be achieved with out wrecking anything?

Well technically zero rpm, but that's assuming that the cabling can deliver that power, the silicon shouldn't care until it hits the amp or heat limits. after that the motor tends to overheat. At these power levels, stuff gets hot fairly fast

You're pushing maybe 350 amps at this level? FWIW, my DC series Kostov has an armature max amps of 440 @192 v for 1 minute and the klick brush sensor fires at 220C

Should be a readable table somewhere that you can modify but that's above my pay grade

Normal locked rotor torque is usually around 2 to 2.5 times rated torque, but motors don't really like that. What the motor is attached to really might not like that.
Then with synchronous motors like the leaf has locked rotor torque could be even higher if you can supply the juice with out smoking a stator or armature winding.

Precisely how do you lock the rotor in an EV or even why would you try?

Every time you stop the car.
It's only locked until the car starts moving.