EcoModder.com

EcoModder.com (https://ecomodder.com/forum/)
-   DIY / How-to (https://ecomodder.com/forum/diy-how.html)
-   -   Good Coroplast to Coroplast Adhesive? (https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/good-coroplast-coroplast-adhesive-3253.html)

garys_1k 06-22-2008 12:47 AM

Good Coroplast to Coroplast Adhesive?
 
I want to patch up some "oops" and bond some lap joints together. What's a good glue to hold this stuff to itself?

Daox 06-22-2008 09:24 AM

I'd give super glue a try.

metroschultz 06-22-2008 09:25 AM

I was wondering that very same question.
I was going to try using 3M spray trim adhesive (I have 2 partial cans on a shelf) That stuff seems to be able to hold just about anything to itself.
My other thought was to carry some coroplast to the craft store or home depot and ask them for advice.
And now a 3rd thought, asking the people who sold me the coroplast in the first place. They ought to know.
Shultz

reformed 06-22-2008 10:07 AM

I'd try liquid nails or possibly gorilla glue.

MetroMPG 06-22-2008 10:34 AM

I've used contact / rubber cement with coroplast (once). Worked well for me.

basjoos 06-22-2008 01:59 PM

Coroplast is made of polyethylene, so you need to use one of the few adhesives that will work with polyethylene, which is a low surface energy material that most glues will only attach weakly too. If you are careful, (since coroplast is hollow) you can also heat weld pieces of it together. McMaster-Carr sells an epoxy adhesive that works with polyethylene.

wagonman76 06-22-2008 02:13 PM

Walmart sells a 2 part glue (primer + glue) that says it works even with polyethylene. I know it is rare to find one that does work. Honestly Id try contact cement first, it seems like it would work a lot better for large surface area lap joints.

garys_1k 06-22-2008 04:24 PM

Thanks for the info. on just what coroplast really is, basjos. I found some information about bonding polyethylene by googling and found this writeup about a specialty 3M product, DP 8005:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-dp8005.htm

He talks about the special applicator -- I'd give just squirting it out on a piece of cardboard and stirring it up a try. It looks like it's available at "drillspot.com" here:

http://www.drillspot.com/products/32...astic_Adhesive

With ground shipping a single tube is about $25.00. I may want to live with my ugly lap joint for a while, or even try some really short sheet metal screws run in from the piece behind the visible surface to see it that's good enough for a while.

Edit to add: Sheesh, thanks again, basjos, for the McMaster-Carr reference. I'll see if the outlet near me stocks the stuff.

Meph 06-22-2008 08:48 PM

construction adhesive works well for most anything

ebacherville 06-23-2008 12:42 AM

you should try fiberglass resin on a sample piece.. bet it would work, there are different types of resins that are compatible with different types of materials..

Really i love fiberglass resin there are so many uses for the stuff.

capoed84 06-25-2008 10:54 PM

I've used contact cement. It bonds very firmly so make sure the pieces you are bonding are perfectly lined up because it is not very forgiving if you have to start over.

skyl4rk 06-26-2008 10:17 PM

I tried two adhesives which I use for boatbuilding.

I cut 6" x 6" squares from a coroplast sign and glued the squares together with about a one inch overlap. I applied the glue and then drove 2 deck screws through the joint to clamp it together. Then left it without touching it overnight.

1. Two part epoxy, similar to WEST System. Cured 24 hours. I was able to pull the pieces apart, but it took quite a bit of effort. The plastic bent much easier than the force needed to pull the two parts apart. Where there was paint from the sign graphics, the epoxy pulled the paint off of the coroplast. The pieces would probably hold together in most high speed wind conditions. Using a fastener like a bolt or rivet on the ends would likely help keep the pieces together in high stress conditions. I did not wipe the joint with acetone first, that might help improve adhesion. I did not scuff the joint with sandpaper, that might help too.

2. PL Concrete and Masonry Sealer. This is a polyurethane caulk which is used by boatbuilders as a glue because it is relatively cheap and works as well as other polyurethane glues like 3M 5200. After 24 hours, the joint had not cured completely. I believe that this is because polyurethane needs moisture in the air to cure, or maybe it just needs air. Perhaps misting the joint with water would help cure time. Perhaps using only a small amount of adhesive in a thin layer would work best. I put the two parts back together and let it cure an additional 48 hours. It held together quite tightly and took a lot of effort to pull apart, similar to the epoxy. The center of the joint was not cured completely. This adhesive would also work although you would probably need to allow it to cure for a week or more. I also tried an end to end joint, applying the glue to the end of one piece and pushing another piece against it in a butt joint. With no over lap and just the 4mm width of the two pieces touching, it was actually a decent join, not too difficult to tear apart but surprisingly tough. I tested it after 36 hours of cure time.

I tried a pop rivet on the coroplast, and it would work if you used a washer or some hard material on either end of the rivet. The rivet would pull through when trying to rivet two layers of coroplast with no backing. I don't like pop rivets much because they have an ugly side to them on the inside, but it would be one way to fasten a joint. Another type of fastener that would work with coroplast is to use zip ties, but they are quite flexible and probably would not work well together with adhesive. Deck screws with large threads worked well but then you have the points on the inside to deal with. Maybe light nuts and bolts with plastic washers might be the ideal fastener to use together with adhesive.

Blue07CivicEX 06-26-2008 11:27 PM

On the subject of Zip Ties, they work quite well with coroplast, I was able to make slits along the corrugation and run the zip tie inside the coroplast without coming through the front then tying it to whatever i needed. This is how I fasted my front fog lamp covers and grill block. The fog lamps used zip ties connected to an I-bolt this allowed me to get everything tucked where it needed to be then tighten the bolt from the back of the bumper (I had to drill a hole in the fog lamp holder spot but it's not too devastating).

The zip ties work great and allow for the modifications to be removed without any damage to the car except the hole in the blank fog lamp things but like i said, not too concerned about those. Also it provides for a smooth outer layer with no fasteners sticking through the coroplast.

miket 07-30-2010 03:57 PM

I know the faces of the coroplast are corona treated but the cut ends arent. Flashing with a flame i would thing would be hit or miss. I do have a bottle of primer somewhere but I wonder if i could do a diy corona treatment on the ends.

I have a 15kV 30mA 60hz neon sign transformer based jacobs ladder in my basement. Maybe I could run the edges of the coroplast over the arc to treat them. I could put much shorter electrodes on it and build a simple box around it with an open top and a tall slot cut in it to pass the coroplast through. Hehe.

davidgrey50 07-30-2010 05:30 PM

A(nother) handy website - This to That (Glue Advice). How to glue anything. And everything.

Dr. Jerryrigger 07-31-2010 12:32 AM

Has anyone tried a box stapler, it seems like it would be a quite good mechanical connection.

NachtRitter 08-01-2010 06:13 PM

I've found that a hot glue gun (pro, not hobby) works really well, especially if I pre-heat the coroplast with a heat gun (not too much else the coroplast melts). Gives me a bond that I can use about 10 - 15 minutes after gluing.

Varn 08-06-2010 06:37 PM

First post here:
I have had experience from the recumbent bike racing scene. I would use an awl and cable ties. Put plumbers tape over them. A glue gun can be used but it isn't perfect. Make sure that you get the coroplast hot with the glue gun.

bestclimb 08-07-2010 04:48 PM

plyobond. follow the directions and it will bond anything to anything. We use it on aircraft stuff often.

pagroundhog 11-05-2015 01:09 AM

It was my understanding that most Coroplast is Polypropylene not Polyethylene. The is corugated PVC . Coroplast used for signs is treated (Corona Flashed) to accept sign inks which compound the adhesion process It can be removed by using a propane torch with a flame spreader the strongest bonds are with low melt glue stick guns as the sticks are polypropylene.. 3m Dp-8005 is perfect but expensive. Another technique is stitching with zip ties or pop rivets with washers.

Grant-53 11-06-2015 11:26 PM

I have used zip ties for fairings for years and recently found Elmer's Craft Bond spray adhesive to work quite well.


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:56 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com