Hot fuel vapor carburetor
 

By the title of the post you are thinking that I have lost my dam mind.
I give you an actual living breathing, rainbow farting natural birth unicorn (not some Frankenstein's monster).
:eek:

This is how I will do it.
Take a plain old 4 barrel edelbrock 650 carburetor that I already have, know how to tune and rebuild, then put it on top of an obsolete 1960s carburetor hot plate and hook coolant lines up to it.
Done.
I have invented nothing new and I am not trying anything that has not been done before.

Of course I am not going to make it that simple I am thinking I will band saw off the 5/8'' heater hose nipples, thread them for 1/4 or 3/8 NPT and install 3/8 hose barbs, because I just don't want big gaudy 5/8 heater hoses running all over the place. Then add a control solenoid to turn off the coolant when I don't need it.

I have seen these before, I just have not seen one in a very long time.
I don't think its actually going to help fuel economy that much unless its nice and chilly. It will help cold starting since I have coolant heater, can circulate coolant through the carb hot plate with the electric coolant pump I already run and I can fill the fuel bowl with my electric fuel pump.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1445664720

This wont be a big MPG booster, its more of a cold weather contingency plan and tuning aid since I run a edelbrock air gap intake manifold.

I would be concerned about vapor-lock. any thoughts? heat-soak will run straight up to the carb.
when I first read the title, I thought it was a bash thread.

That is why I am adding a control valve, so I can turn it off. I may find in winter I don't need it beyond warm up and I may not want it on at all in the summer.

This normally happens any ways when you have a typical non-divorced style intake manifold. I have seen the carb on my Camaro showing roughly 200'F with the factory style intake where the bottom the plenum and intake runners are the top of the inside of the lifter valley, so it gets pretty warm.
Vapor lock happens when you get vapor bubbles in the fuel lines from the fuel lines getting too hot. Most amateur hot fuel experiments try to heat the fuel line, this rig only heats the fuel once it has reached the carb.
I can prevent baking the fuel once its in the carb by turning off the coolant a mile or 2 before I get to where I am going and cutting off the fuel pump to burn off fuel in the bowls.

Normally coming from me it would be a bash thread.

These are found on 1962-1963 thunderbird with 390 and other mid 1960s ford cars with V8 engines.
Just search "ford carburetor heater" or "ford carburetor spacer".

First gen z cars (1969) had coolant heated manifolds and preheated air into the air cleaner, via a winter-summer flap on the air entrance snorkel to the air filter housing.

My 37 Ford's original intake manifold had a passageway and a port to the regular exhaust port that used exhaust gasses to heat up the manifold directly below the carburetor mounting point.

Nissan even had a heated screen in their last carbed 200SX's, using the NapsZ 2 liter engines.

Preheating the fuel with otherwise wasted exhaust heat energy is still being developed. Check out transonic combustion.

regards
mech

What I originally thought was a vacuum port appears to be full of exhaust soot. I am thinking that is where the EGR went in.

I figured the PCV is pretty much always attached to the air cleaner?
This is a raw vacuum port.
Looks more like EGR soot than PCV crud.
Not running EGR I am just going to cap this off.

Never seen pvc only hooked up to the air cleaner. I'm betting the port is pvc.
-mort

any luck?
here's something I found years ago.
Alternative Science and Technology Research Organisation

I have not tried to put this on yet.
With the ridiculously cold temperatures we have been having I need to at least try.
Only problem with putting this on is its about an inch thick and I am already running a much taller than stock edelbrock RPM air gap intake manifold and taller than stock edelbrock 650 carb.

Did you ever give it a try?

If vaporizing carburetors made a significant or dramatic difference in fuel economy, then the vehicles/engines that were made to run on propane would have shown similar/dramatic improvements in FE.

they didn't.

Yes, even after accounting for the difference in energy density/BTU's etc, they just didn't.

Could it make some difference in driveability and a slight improvement in FE if all you do is short trips?

...maybe....

I have not been able to work on it, been in Afghanistan lately and the engine I was going to use it on is at the machine shop.

That's what I usually say.
And yes its more for winter and/or short trips.

When I first read the title of your thread I thought this might be about the vapor carburetor/turbo arrangement Smokey Yunick experimented (with rather spectacular results).

Pontiac Fiero Hot Air Engine Setup - Circle Track Magazine

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...-vapor-engine/

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=78116
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg8oJXcWjnE

Thanks for the bump to this thread.
 

And welcome to the thread. But, the Smokey Yunick Engine has been discussed in other threads. Do a search and you should be able to find some. Also, some of our members have done on-going work that directly or indirectly touches on the subject. Iveyjh and PfgPro have posts on similar conceptual work, whether they know it or not.

Oil Pan4's work is less esoteric and more practical and less about over all fuel economy and more about cold weather drive ability and economy.

And thanks for the link to the Engineering Tips discussion. I was involved in that years ago and it bore some fruit if you have the background and temperament to dig through it all.

This engine is getting lean burn, high compression 11:1, heated fuel, warmed air and likely water methanol injection.

...eagerly await data...

The Ford carburetor plate holes do not line up with the square bore.
I am going to examine it closer and see if I can drill the holes with out going onto the water jacket.
I want to try this so if the Ford carb plate isn't workable then I want to make one.

Well I screwed up.
When looking for a way to make the carb plate line up by drilling holes I discovered it does in fact line up.
I thought those old fords used square bore carburetors and it turns out that they do.

The hose nipples were 5/8, rotted to about 13mm so they need to go. I will cut them off and drill then to fit what evet pipe thread tap is convenient and put 3/8 hose barbs on there.

The plat appears to be designed to accommodate a Holly's front /rear fuel bowls and metering blocks. ?can you turn it 90° to accommodate Edelbrock's side and side bowls and jets .

Then I need to find something to seal the carb to the plate that will allow for maximum heat transfer.
I'm thinking just RTV, no gasket.
Unless anything can think of something better?

I'm not worried about heating the intake manifold, I think it will get a paper gasket and RTV.

Hmm. Thermal adhesive. Like thermal paste/heatsink compound, except it hardens like glue. If it doesn't need to harden, stick with the paste.

I did not know of such a compound.
I am going to have to stick with paste I thing. I don't want the carb and the plate permanently stuck together.
I'm going to working on some tuning and I may switch between edelbrock 650 and 800cfm carbs once or twice.
I can try sloping some thermal paste on there and see if it holds vaccume.

It comes in different "strengths" too, which dictate how fast it can transfer heat.

I'm waiting on some "GD900" from fleabay; it has one of the higher/highest thermal transfer rates vs price that I could find.

This may be OT, but have you thought about adding an electric pre-heater to the carb manifold as well, so it doesn't have to wait for the coolant to get warm? Could be a little insurance against carb icing too.

I have a thermostatically controlled intake. It gets warmed air as soon as the exhaust manifold starts to get hot, which is around 20 seconds.

I know, but before that! ;)

I actually have hatz diesel intake heaters I could use.
For cold starting it's actually not a terrible idea.

The carb heater plate is the dirty old looking thing between the intake manifold and carb.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1484983920
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1484983920

Any improvement in FE?