How can I lessen my '92 Volvo's environmental impact?
 

Hello,

I drive a 1992 Volvo 940 GL, automatic transmission, 107,000 miles, 2.3L engine, (1992 Volvo 940 Specs - Specifications for used Volvo 940 - CarGurus). I live in the Boston area but go to school in Rochester, NY (where it's COLD). My parents were early Prius adopters and drive two of them, and after a couple of years with my Volvo, I'm interested in doing something about this vehicle's impact.

I have an ethical problem with throwing out or selling a great old car like my Volvo: it's a tank and easily will last another 200,000 miles, so if I sell it to get a more energy-efficient vehicle, I'm only benefiting myself as someone else will certainly drive it into the ground, polluting just as much as usual. Also, in the larger picture, I think the world's biggest hurdle with energy efficiency is not simply developing new technologies, but finding efficient and economical means to re-design our old technologies like my good old Volvo.

So, I'm hoping for some help with any options I have to modify this vehicle to make it more energy-efficient. To be clear, I'm interested first and foremost in modifications that would affect its environmental impact (less direct and indirect pollution), and second in modifications that would lead to more cost-effective driving (more fuel-efficient/lower cost to drive).

I already practice basic stuff in efficiency - keeping tires properly inflated, going down hills in neutral, riding my bike, etc - here I'm really looking for help with substantial mechanical changes in the vehicle: anything from using E85 to converting it to a full EV...I am fairly tech-savvy and a little bit mechanically inclined but I'm assuming I'll need a mechanic's help with at least some part of this.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Sam

The environmental benefits of e85 are dubious at best, currently.

I don't think you can easily seperate the two (enviro vs cost effective), as many folks now consider CO2 a form of pollution and the worse your mpg the worse your co2 output (assuming a reasonably clean burning engine).

If you are feeling adventurous though then swap in a stick shift for starters, it will make the EV conversion easier later on too :)

I probably wasn't clear enough. What I'm trying to say is that it's okay with me to invest money in a vehicle for environmental reasons, without necessarily benefiting long-term in terms of $$.

I wonder what going over to stick would cost...way more fun to drive...

It's probably hard to find a manual trans for that car, might be $1000 in used parts and a fair bit of research to find something that will fit and pedal assembly, etc, to see if it is even feasible.

I don't believe you have a lockup converter (don't really know for sure) so you should be able to leverage a noticeable benefit on the hiway as well as around town.

Of course adding a basket/trailer to your bicycle and using that for local trips is a real good eco bargain/quick fix too as you have observed.

Welcome to the site. Its refreshing to see someone come here for environmental gains vs the usual cost issue. There are many things you can do to the Volvo to decrease environmental impact. I would suggest reading some of the stickied thread in the forums to get a better idea of what you'd like to do.

The manual transmission swap won't be an easy task, but shouldn't be incredibly hard. Price will depend on used parts avaliable in your area. I suggest using Car-Part.com to find prices on transmissions and other misc parts you'll need. For reference, I have a DIY written on how to do a swap on a Toyota Starlet on my site here. Its definitly not your vehicle, but it'll give you an idea of what you would need to do.

Glad you made it over, :thumbup: Aerodynamics is where it's going to be at for a floating brick like that.

you mean an AWESOME floating brick???

make no mistake, I love this car and want to see it last another decade at least.

Is it possible to go to EV with an auto transmission? I like driving stick but it seems like a step backward in order to go forward...and at $1000 plus it could be a bit hard to swallow.

Volvo
 

Coupe? Sedan? Wagon? Photograph from the side?

Sorry, forgot to mention that. It's a GL Sedan, pic from the side looks like this vehicle (this isn't my particular car but same model): http://www.analogstereo.com/images/om/volvo_940.jpg

lessen the Volvo
 

samuelmehr,thanks for the photo.Helps alot! Looks like Volvo has refined the "brick" quite a bit already.The upper grille has been narrowed(good).Shadows thwart investigating for openings under the bumper.If there is a opening there,it might be possible to partially,or completely block the upper opening.Can't tell.One must be careful not to unintentionally fry important bits and pieces under the hood!The front airdam means that you already have the benefit of a partial bellypan,so completely smoothing the underside might not pay the dividends,say,a pickup truck might see.The flanks may be a bit dirty,although that involves mods to the rocker panels for the entire length of the car(as you see in one of today's Corollas).I like your wheel covers just as they are.They are much like Larry Shinoda's secret-weapon covers for the Trans Am Firebird of the early 80s.The side mirrors look okay aero wise,and while a little big for die hards,probably offer great and safe rearward vision.The cowl area in front of the windshield will be a little "dirty" however some of that ensures good cabin ventilation,a good tradeoff.I think the back of the car would benefit from a little cleanup.although it impacts access to the trunk.Something like Ford's Merkur XR4Ti used in the 1980s,or like AMG HAMMER did for the fast Mercedes.It's a combo streamlined rear roof extension combined with a rear,or bi-wing rear spoiler,which pushes the trailing edges out to intersect with an imaginary line defined by the ultimate streamlined teardrop form.You can see the profile at Project:permanent Kammback for Metro here at the aero forum.It will force the air to follow a path more like the roofline of a HONDA Insight hybrid ( one of the,if not the most aerodynamically efficient cars of its size class).I think rear mods are where the money would be.Anything you do to improve or reduce the wake behind the car will pay direct dividends at the gas pump.It's where about 70 cents out of every dollar you spend goes,when out on the open road.
.

wow, I had no idea aerodynamics played that big a role. Where could I get that kind of thing done in the Boston area?

How?
 

That's a good question and I don't have a quick easy answer.You might make some measurements off the car and keep with you handy.You might do a GOOGLE Image search for Merkur XR4Ti and AMG HAMMER Mercedes to acquaint yourself with these forms,then look about in the marketplace and bone-yards to see if any production pieces could be modified to fit the Volvo.Body shops may have catalogs for aftermarket aerodynamic add-on packages for the car also.Don't know.Some of us have literally mocked up wings and spoilers out of cardboard and masking tape,which last long enough to burn through a few tanks of fuel.If they prove themselves at the pump,then they are worthy of devoting the time(and its mostly time) to fabricate a permanent ,lasting part out of metal or composites.MetroMPG's thread,for his Project: permanent Kammback for the Metro will walk you through the entire process.Keep your eyes open for perverting existing hardware,and altering it to fit your goals.I scavenge whatever I can.It saves me hundreds of hours in fabrication time.Kinda of perversely fun when you see progress at the gas station.

The downfall of the american mindset is that we consume goods in order to solve our problems. "Consumer spending" is the solution to all problems, even consumption.

The most enviornmentally sound decision you can make is to continue driving your car. You may consume more gas, but consider the amount of energy, materials, and labor required to produce that new car you were considering. There's no comparison.

Finding a wrecked volvo with the manual parts you'll need would be a good bet. Their manual transmissions seem to hold up really well. I've driven in a few with well over 250k miles.

Strange as it may sound, there are some people out there that go high performance on the old volvos. You should be able to find resources to add an electric fan, underdrive pulleys, lowering springs, and a taller final drive ratio without too much trouble.

Is that a RWD car? If so, you could look for a final drive with a lower number. I just picked up one for my 240sx for $60/shipped.

Step 1: Ignore all the rubbish you read here.
Step 2: Join turbobricks.com. Learn how to swap an M47 manual transmission, electric cooling fan from a 960, fix the airbox thermostat, install a coroplast undertray, reduce weight, make the car E85 compatible and enjoy the ride. Also search the forum for "ecobricks". Its all there. A few people are getting some pretty astounding fuel economy numbers out of these cars. 35mpg+

cheers
Justin

Nice :) :thumbup: Definitely let us know if it helps!!

Oh, and +1 on the aeromods too for those who suggested it!

I have a 87 Turbo wagon that gets 30 mpg plus at 65 miles per hour. Keeping the car is more of a benefit to the environment. The energy has already been spent to build it and ship it to your city. The spare parts are already have been made and sitting on a shelf in a warehouse here in the states. If you baby it you should see 22 to 24 mpg around town and over 30 on the highway. Right now you have a paid for car with low insurance premiums. Volvo's in general run very clean emissions.
Fill with a good synthetic motor oil and run it for 6k mile oil changes and swap out the differential fluid with synthetic. Being you already have a locking torque converter the benefits of going to a manual will be minimal in fuel mileage gains. With a non locking torque converter in the Turbos makes the swap to a manual well worth it.
As far as the transmission fluid being swapped out for synthetic it is going to be $120 just for the fluid. Synthetic fluid in the rear end will give you the best bang for the buck when winter comes.
Pump the tires up to 38 to 40 psi and make sure the alignment is dead on spec.
Keep the car under 65 mph or 2500 rpms when on the highway. With an automatic I have found the best speeds to run a Volvo 700/900 is between 60and 65 mph for the best gas mileage. Once you go over 2500 rpms your fuel mileage goes into the toilet.
If your into spending money you can call up IPD and get a set of lowering springs. Then for a few bucks for materials close up the area between the differential and the rear bumper. The rear bumpers on these cars act like a
parachute at speed. Both tjts1 and I have seen a 1-2 mpg increase just with this one modification.

Pics of the mod under my 97 960.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2022/...f39e8d.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2157/...7990a1.jpg?v=0

So since mine's not a turbo you think it's better to keep it as automatic? I do prefer driving stick but if it's going to cost a lot to change over, I'm not sure if it's worth it. Though down the road, turning my brick into a full EV w/ stick would be awesome...

That's great info on the optimal rpm's, I'll try your #'s for the next few weeks and see how my mileage is. It's probably about time I got some new transmission fluid anyway, so I'll see if I can get synthetic. Don't remember the last time I checked differential.

What kind of differences would I see with a set of lowering springs? Do you know what those cost?