How to cheat the voltage regulator.
 

Ive discovered an issue by accident.
Son diddnt tighten Alternator bolts up only tensioned it after belt change.
I have a switch installed to control alternator charge cycling I only use it during accelleration from stop and on ramp merges etc.
Getting to the point with a fully charged Battery last night the alternator belt squeeled every time I hit starter button and even when I roll started the car.
I went to O rileys and they tested and printed out my charging system spec's- everything was great.
This got me thinking, that the regulator is too sensitive to the amperage drop from head lamps and or starter motor.
Or, it automaticly cycles on at start up from engine management system. I would doubt the latter but dont want to dismiss untill proven.
The situation was quickly remedied by shutting off alternator.
But imagine the case of cold starts etc where before engine is even leveled out the alternator is loading it up.
Im thinking a Large Capacitor would be a best fix here because Ive already got an oversize battery, and charging system is a steady 13.2vdc.
Now For the complex question what size capacitor should I install? I have 3 old beer can sized ones 125000 mfd?? not sure Ill look l8tr.

Can you re-phrase that? I can't really understand what you're talking about doing.

There are a couple of threads on using "supercapacitors" to either replace or supplement the battery. The conclusion seems to be that they're not a good replacement, but they may be good to allow you to reduce the size of the battery you need.

-soD

I think he said his alt has an aggressive voltage regulator and it loads the belt more than it can take.

musta got too long and wordy
 

No charging system is 100% +
I know how to change a belt LOL

Point is I would never have known the Alternator turns on immediatly at restart and now that I know perhaps I should try inserting a cap inline to see if it will prevent its strange on cycle.
Im thinking regulator notices the rush of amps and turns charge on even though it doesnt require a charge.
Perhaps it is wired in series with all those componants and defaults to charge at start up???? It is after all a kia.
Its that or switch it off 1000 times a week, or let it load up the re/starting engine. Mabe I should have gotten another toyota alternator never did this till now, but mabe it did and I just never had the belt loose enough to notice it?????????

ok everyone loosen your belts to see if yours does it too.

An alt is rather aggressive at recharging the starter battery. Now days many alts are rated over 100 amps and many aftermarket ones can be modded to go up to 400 amps.

Maybe you can undo some windings or go find a early geo metro alt that put out 50 amps?

You rite cobb
 

I had a 65Amp early toyota truck Alternator that I put oversized pully on to reduce drag and drop charge voltage down from 14.8 vdc to 12.5vdc.
Well that finally went bad and I went back to the 85amp KIA unit 2 weeks ago.
3 days ago I discovered every time car restarts that alternator does too.
It explains why im not getting the advantage from my larger diameter tires.
And why pulse and glide engine off has shown even lower than that mpg.
Explained : I averaged 35mpg B4 tire changed and Alt swap.
This dropped to 32mpg and Ive built that back up to 34mpg avg.
But instead I shoulda seen 37 - 39 mpg.
My best mpg tank was 35.5 and that was into the wind both ways with under inflated front tires.
Difference here no P&G just steady throttle for 30 miles each way.
And no diddnt use My Alternator deactivation switch untill now.
My Alternator was Taxing the engine at 14 stop sign restarts each way, Plus Key off coast downs. :rolleyes:
These are my big fuel saving points.
I would like to make others aware of this possibillity in thier own car but everybody mistakes my post for some dummy doesnt know how to install an alternator LOL.
Im much deeper than that LMAO.

wait....... what is the goal here?

Does this connect to whatever this guy was talking about?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5s5VwLABdc

I think he means that when he starts the engine. ( cranking the engine) the alternator is trying to charge the battery. En continues charging when the engine is fired but running a fraction of a second under idle speed. He wants to waith with activating the alternator until the engine is ideling right.

I already had an idea for a swith to deactivate the actuator of the alternator before fire up the engine. And start charging a few miles further down the road when the enginen is getting hotter instead of cold.

I only dont know how to do this.

I may be saying something dumb now - but how about switching the alternator by a contactor and pressure switch in the throttle house?
Before the engine turns over there will be no vacuum and the alternator would be switched off.
When it starts running it draws a vacuum and the alternator gets switched on.
When you floor it (WOT) it switches the alternator off again - you need the extra few HP then or you would not floor it ;)