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Old 07-17-2014, 07:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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My advice:

Just take it to somebody and have them put a new timing belt on it (a reputable shop will also correct the misaligned cam/crank issue), pay the crazy amount they charge you, and enjoy your car!

I'm beginning to worry that your next post to be "how do I replace the head on a Civic"

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Old 07-17-2014, 08:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowmeat View Post
My advice:

Just take it to somebody and have them put a new timing belt on it (a reputable shop will also correct the misaligned cam/crank issue), pay the crazy amount they charge you, and enjoy your car!

I'm beginning to worry that your next post to be "how do I replace the head on a Civic"
Actually, you won't have to worry about that at all. As I may of mentioned it earlier, both the timing belt & water pump are relatively new, with less than 30,000 mile on them. Same with the cylinder head, no problems there either.

To clarify, the reason why I was on this track, was because I was lead to believe that my high idle issue which occurred after I set the ignition timing, might have been related to a misaligned timing belt.

The more I research this, I'm starting to believe that a misaligned timing belt may not be the case at all.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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you align the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer like in the picture ( as you stand on the driver's side of the car looking at it, ONLY SPIN THE MOTOR COUNTER-CLOCKWISE )
the TDC marks should agree at the top and bottom of the motor, or your mechanical timing is off.

ok, here we go!!

first things first, you will NEVER be able to "see" the cam gear on the top end without removing the valve cover first ( spark plug wires off, leave spark plugs in, ENGINE COLD )

then you will be able to see the actual mechanical timing. I think the belt is confusing you, in that it's not the belt's alignment you worry about as much as the alignment of the top cam gear's TDC marks to the top of the block in comparison to the alignment of the harmonic balancer's TDC marks alignment to the timing cover's TDC marks.



( no head replacement required yet, might want to check valve lash clearances while the valve cover is open, though )
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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you snuck a post in while I was uploading my drawing! more info is good!

absolutely sure your plug wires are right?
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrmouseyd15b View Post
you snuck a post in while I was uploading my drawing! more info is good!

absolutely sure your plug wires are right?
Without a doubt. The OEM wiring harness that I got from Majestic Honda came numbered.
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
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OK then, did you put a jumper wire in the 2 pin plug at the front passenger seat kick panel ( it will give you a check engine light when it's in place, and if you have pending codes, they will flash ) before you set your electrical timing ( with timing light ) ?

If not, not timing may not be correct. the jumper ( with check engine light lit )allows you to adjust the electronic timing at the distributor without the ECU messing your settings all around. You might want to put a jumper in the 2 pin ( there's also a 3 pin one, I think it's called an scs connector - don't touch that ) and double check your timing with a light. This may be your whole problem. It might have been ok when you adjusted it, but as the conditions change ( temp, humidity ) the ECU will want to adjust the timing slightly. If you aren't in the " middle" of this swing, that could be it.

Make sure you are at operating temp, which usually means wasting gas idling, unless you can do it right after a drive - before you check timing. clip the plug wire closest to the harmonic balancer with your light ( farthest from the dizzy ) and check again.

( You want to be in the middle of the three marks that are close together, I run mine a little "retarded" - on the line closest to the front bumper )
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:13 PM   #17 (permalink)
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if that all checks out, then you will really be picking my brain about the " base idle " on that motor.
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:14 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
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OK then, did you put a jumper wire in the 2 pin plug at the front passenger seat kick panel ( it will give you a check engine light when it's in place, and if you have pending codes, they will flash ) before you set your electrical timing ( with timing light ) ?

If not, not timing may not be correct. the jumper ( with check engine light lit )allows you to adjust the electronic timing at the distributor without the ECU messing your settings all around. You might want to put a jumper in the 2 pin ( there's also a 3 pin one, I think it's called an scs connector - don't touch that ) and double check your timing with a light. This may be your whole problem. It might have been ok when you adjusted it, but as the conditions change ( temp, humidity ) the ECU will want to adjust the timing slightly. If you aren't in the " middle" of this swing, that could be it.

Make sure you are at operating temp, which usually means wasting gas idling, unless you can do it right after a drive - before you check timing. clip the plug wire closest to the harmonic balancer with your light ( farthest from the dizzy ) and check again.

( You want to be in the middle of the three marks that are close together, I run mine a little "retarded" - on the line closest to the front bumper )
Yes Sir, all that was done and thankfully, there were no CEL's. The check engine light remained solid when I had jumped the 2-pin connector under the kick panel.

The only exception to any of this was that I performed each procedure with a cold engine. With that said, I think that I may attempt to repeat the entire procedure with a warm engine.
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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YES! it has to be at operating temp ( the FSM says to warm the engine, hold the throttle at 3000 rpm's until the cooling fan comes on twice before checking or adjusting timing ) I just pull into my garage after a drive and check mine at a hot idle.
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:26 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davo53209@yahoo.com View Post
The only exception to any of this was that I performed each procedure with a cold engine. With that said, I think that I may attempt to repeat the entire procedure with a warm engine.
Definitely do it again first, after warming the engine until the rad fan kicks on. It has to be hot. That's in the factory service manual. Do it on a cold engine and get the wrong results. Good luck. Keep us informed.

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