Hypermiling issues: Worn out ignition switch
 

Well I've been hypermiling for a few months now. And just recently my ignition switch has just given out from what I believe has been my Engine Off Coasting/Idling. I drive a '95 Honda Accord DX so I'm not too surprised that it's worn out.

As an aside it seems from internet searching that the Accord ignition switch has a tendency to give out. So it could just be its time to go.

At first I was afraid that I blew out my ECU or something but if I keep the key turned slightly in the START position then my engine runs fine. But right now if it goes back to the ON position the car totally cuts off. I've already ordered a new part and will let anyone know who's interested on how the repair went.

I haven't had any problems with the ignition switch failing. However, my ignition switch did start to get a little rougher to turn after about 6 months of P&G. I used some powdered graphite lubricant in it. Its been smooth as glass since then.

A kill switch can make things more convenient and make life easier on your ignition switch.

I've definitely thought about that. But I've been thinking that I don't want to keep my Accord forever. So at some point I would like to sell it. I would have to think of developing a kill switch that is more plug in style than a permanent feature.

Agreed on the kill switch feature. Very handy.

Also, some cars just have certain weak components. I replaced at least a couple of ignition key switches in the VW Rabbit fleet that passed through my life when I was in high school/university.

Just food for thought:

A big heavy wad of keys will also wear out an ignition switch. Be sure to keep your car keys on a seperate chain from the rest!

i have a standard and if you pop start it then it should have no effect on the starter.

new ignition switch installed
 

I'm back to hypermiling! I took out the bad ignition switch and replaced it with a new one. I bought the new one from Auto Parts Warehouse. I ordered it regular ground UPS and it got here in just a couple days. Decent prices too.

Once upon a time I replaced an ignition switch in a 95 Accord; non Eco Driving Highway miles on the car.

Just a Data point.

I just made a kill switch for my vehicle that is basically 'plug-in' style. I soldered wires to the two conductors of a burnt out blade type fuse, then connected the wires to a toggle switch. I then removed the ign (ignition) fuse from the fuse box and plugged in my new switched fuse.

I also put an inline fuse of the proper value in one of the wires so that the ign circuit is still fused.

I had a junky '86 Excel once, wore out its ignition switch. The replacement said Toyota all over it. Fit like a champ.

Will this work in my '89 Celebrity, and how does it work?

Does it turn off the fuel injectors and leave on everything else?

I'd like to use a toggle to make an engine kill switch, for driving around town, and EOC on trips.

Also I'm planning to get a newer car in the 1995-2005 range that will get much better mileage.

I've more or less always turned the ignition off at stoplights, and worn out a few ignition switches this way.
So I'm very excited to put a kill switch in the car!

when my ignition switch fails i think i will install something like this
ignition switch start button and accessories switch , pilot light for ing and acc
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/images/M/4466.JPG

Can you explain more in detail what that does, and how you connect it?

johnlvs2run -

That's a push-button starter that is commonly used in racing cars. I think that the toggle switch has a safety cover to turn the black-rubber starter button "hot". Here are some instructions :

Pantera Push Button Starter Install

http://www.panteraplace.com/Electric...arter%208a.JPG

If you have a car that people like stealing, then this makes the car easier to steal. Break in, press button, go. In that situation you would need an additional hidden kill switch. In the above example you need a key to "arm" the starter button. Makes sense for installing in a Pantera.

I may need one of these in the near future. At least nobody wants my car, ;) .

CarloSW2

you can also wire it after the key ignition so that you still need the key to operate, it will just prevent the wear caused by the repeated cycling of the key.

Yep, the covered switch is the master switch, the black switch turns on the ignition (or kills it) and the red button is the starter. at least that's how it was on my dwarf car switch panel, which looked darn near identical to that one. the reason i had it wired that way was so i could kill the ignition, put the car in gear, and use the starter motor to propel the car into the trailer. this allowed very precise control of the car in a confined space.

I have a neighbor that works on cars. He said that my ignition switch is bad. To me, the symptoms sound more like a bad main relay of fuel pump since the car will turn over and has spark, but wont fire.
He says that this could still be caused by a bad ignition switch.
What do you guys think ? If the car engages the starter, I would think that the switch is fine.

How much play should there be in the switch ? I can juggle the key around slightly, but its not overly loose.

I'm concerened because I actually do drive with a wad of keys attached to the car key.

IMHO if the engine turns over just fine then there isn't a problem with the ignition, a fuel pump relay could be the problem like you said. i haven't pulled apart an ignition to see exactly how it's wired, so maybe there is a separate contact inside that activates the fuel pump relay. i would think there would only be one to minimize the number of contacts that can get fouled, but that's just me.