|
I do not like the Honda FSM.
3 Attachment(s)
Apparently I have been saying that I was going to replace my timing belt for six months. I researched which other parts to replace at the same time, found the best places to purchase everything, quit my job and moved. I had all of the time in the world, but wasn't comfortable taking my engine apart when there are always complications.
Also, I am lazy. Yesterday I bought the Chilton manual and then realized I had a PDF of the FSM. When I replaced the head gasket on my Forester removing the timing belt was the easy part and it is easier to work on Hondas than Subarus, so I was kind of looking forward to this. Mostly not looking forward to it, but whatever. I do not know if I found a Subaru FSM, but the Haynes was a ridiculous Choose Your Own Adventure of jumping from chapter to chapter. I understand, though, the book might be twice as long if they told you to write down the anti-theft code for the radio, the radio presets, and to disconnect the negative battery terminal and then the positron each and every time. Wait. They already do. I think there were 15 - 20 steps for the head gasket, but when I wrote down all of the steps from other sections and chapters, I believe I had eighty. I had all kinds of other complications yesterday that did not have anything to do with the FSM, but just made my day frustrating. The timing belt section is seven pages and some of them are kind of short. It only referred out for removing the alternator and alternator bracket, although the page it references for the alternator bracket does not mention the alternator bracket So, I submit that step should be "Remove the nut and bolt from the alternator bracket and remove the alternator bracket" or simply "Remove the alternator bracket." Edit: I cannot see any reason to remove the alternator or bracket. There were a few steps like that. I had so many other complications that it was not until I finished putting together the instructions I realized it was so simple I could have printed off the seven pages, ignored the alternator and alternator bracket references, and knocked it out. However, after reading disassembly instructions a few times and reading the assembly instructions I happened to notice "install the cylinder head cover (see page 6-54)." Huh. Compare that with "Remove the cylinder head cover." The reinstallation instructions are only a page and a half, but the removal portion is four pages, plus (see page 10-10) and (see page 11-115). It always seems like they skip instructions. |
Hang in there! There is a method for head gasket replacement that does not involve timing belt removal, but it is a little tricky. Simplify reinstallation by not putting PS & AC back, lol.
|
I found these helpful. The first guy finds and flips cars which are beat down, and has a scrappy sort of working knowledge I find helpful. EricTheCarGuy is a former Honda/Acura dealer tech, and worked on these cars when they were new. Neither of these are perfect, but I find them helpful as additions to the FSM or other write-ups.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=U5d52aWohI0 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AoJcAS58CHg |
California, I deleted the power steering when I replaced the alternator the first time. JCP, is that Old School Funk? I am not sure how I feel about him. I think he is how I wish Shouty Kilmer was. He shows broke people how to fix cars properly, while Shouty shows questionable shortcuts and stop leak.
Eric is good. I have about 20 YouTube tabs open right now. I think I have Old School in there somewhere. I am actually changing the timing belt on my Accord, while the Civic needs a head gasket, but since the Civic has low compression, I want to rebuild. Faster, stronger, better. Nevermind. That sounds exhausting. I also found a South Main video that I am going to watch as soon as I finish this Choose Your Own Adventure. At ten last night my supervisor told me that I could go ahead and see some clients scheduled for 8 this morning. They live an hour away. Was I supposed to contact the parents then or early in the morning? I woke up at six, called, left voice mail, and sent a text at seven, and never heard back, so I tried to organize the timing belt project on four hours of sleep. |
Yup you correctly identified Old School Funk. I found him a bit questionable at first too, so I watched several of his videos. As a car flipper he takes some shortcuts on cosmetics, but it looks like on important things such as a timing belt change, he won't do slipshod work. His rinkydink setup in that video is pretty identical to what I will have to work with when I attempt the same job on my Civic.
I'll have to go through the South Main channel again, I must have missed the one you are referring to. Don't you ever mention Scotty NutBall Kilmer again! :D |
Quote:
|
How to replace 1999 Accord timing belt (image heavy)
7 Attachment(s)
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1527992288
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1527992429 http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1527992465 http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1527992508 http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1527992570 http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1527992611 http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1527992652 There were not too many pieces to put together, but I did not feel the need to have it say to write down the radio security code and presets four times, disconnect the alternator, prop up the oil pan, and remove a motor mount twice each. It calls for a special wrench, although it seems that a chain wrench would work perfectly, although you may want to wrap the old timing belt around the pulley to protect it from the chain. What do you guys think? Did I miss anything? If everything is too small it is probably because the site shrunk everything from 3,400 x 4,400 to 464 x 600. Should I do single column? Reassembly is reverse of disassembly, except following torque specs and stuff. I will post it written out when I finish. |
Looks pretty complete to me. Be extra careful about keeping the cam pulley still and level in position for first cyl compression stroke. And once the belt is off, don't turn the crank pulley either!
|
Fsm are written for professional dealer type mechanics not do it your selfers. The Chilton type of manuals try to explain things for the first time user. Hopefully they show the special tools like the crankshaft pulley holder needed to get the crank bolt loose.
|
Quote:
EDIT: I still have the Haynes I bought 17 years ago. It mostly holds maintainence records and rides in the car as emergency reference. |
I think that it is good to watch someone else do a repair before you do, but what good is a video when you have your engine in pieces? Unless it is something simple like replacing my radiator I want the instructions printed out right in front of me.
|
Looking good. Keep at it.
|
|
1 Attachment(s)
I finally started! I only got to step nineteen, though. The diagram does not clearly show where the coolant drain plug is in the engine block. It is a 19mm bolt above and to the left of the oil filter that you cannot see from below. Neither Nuts about Bolts nor Brian's Mobile removed that drain plug. Someone commented that when they finally removed it barely any radiator fluid came out. I have seen several comments that it strips easily. With the jack straight in it is in the way of the drain pan.
My phone was fully charged when I started, but I tried to take a couple of pictures, and my phone died. When I plugged it in it said it was at 30%. I just wanted to get as much work done before it got dark as possible, so I charged the phone and left it alone, but I will try to get more pictures. Below are the first nineteen steps, without diagrams, next to my version: http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1529387690 |
Day two of my two-hour repair: I broke stuff.
1 Attachment(s)
Mechanics say that replacing the timing belt should take two hours if you know what you are doing, but five if it is your first time. Shops bill for 4.5. I found a couple of instructional videos that were almost an hour long, but one said to watch two other videos for specific parts. If experienced mechanics need an hour with power tools and editing, I have difficulty believing that many people can do it in two hours.
I woke up early and got started, but I did not get very far before I needed to put everything away and see my one client today. Then I napped for a couple of hours because I hardly slept last night. For some reason, I have difficulty looking at a schematic from the FSM and recognizing the area and specific parts indicated. It was like the lamest treasure map. At one point I cleaned my hands, pulled up each of those videos on my phone, plus a few others, and realized that none of them removed the parts in question. I finally figured out where they were and did not understand why they needed to go. I spent much of the day on this and only accomplished another nine steps and I skipped some, but I also went back to previous ones that challenged me. It says to remove the alternator and I did, but I do not know if it is necessary. It says to disconnect the fuel injectors, Intake Air Temperature, Idle Air Control, Manifold Absolute Pressure, Primary Heated Oxygen, Air-Fuel Ratio, Engine Coolant Temperature, radiator fan switch, coolant temperature gauge sending unit, VTEC solenoid valve, and VTEC oil pressure switch sensor\connectors. I packed up when, not only was I unable to remove the crankshaft pulley, but I broke my 19mm socket, and possibly other stuff. I had this problem with my Forester, but the chain wrench made short work of it. My crankshaft pulley tool does not stay in as well as it did originally. One guy on YouTube used a 24" ratchet and a breaker bar. I just have a normal ratchet and a breaker bar. The breaker bar and a six-point socket did not provide much flexibility, but I absolutely do not want to strip that bolt. About that... When I stood and pushed my foot on the breaker bar I could not put enough force on it. When I laid and pushed on it I slid on the ground. I could not put much of a pipe down there. I broke the socket when I ran a huge cargo strap to the rear tow hook. I think I broke the cargo strap, too. I should be able to walk into AutoZone and get a free replacement. Do I break them until I finally pop the bolt? It seems like there are too many ways for that to go wrong. I figure that I will obtain the free replacement, but purchase impact sockets from Harbor Freights, a short length of pipe, an elbow joint, and a six-foot pipe. Once I can get around the front of the car I should be able to get all kinds of leverage! http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1529482655 The good news: I have not lost anything, nor have I discovered any new problems, and as far as I know, I have not rounded anything significantly, either. The Accord is the same year my Forester was, but currently a couple of years older, with at least 60% more miles, but with the Subaru I kept finding more problems. The accessory belts are cracking. The hoses are barely crunchy, but I think they are original. The thermostat is stuck open. I can only hope that replacing all of the gaskets and everything will improve the oil consumption. Goodnight everybody! |
All you are doing is the timing belt and you are removing the injectors?! No, that can't be right. I know you have the Accord and I have the Civic, but they are VERY similar. Something is wrong in your procedure.
On the crank pulley... that stuck me too, my first time. Power tools were useless. I got the Ft lbs I needed by buying a 12' steel pipe from a Big Box, buying a 1/2" drive breaker bar, and standing my 150lbs body on the end of the pipe threaded onto the breaker bar, on the socket, on the bolt. I gently bounced myself until after a minute it popped. Too much force, too quickly seemed like a bad idea. 12 feet times 150 lbs, what is that, 1800 ft lbs of torque? |
2 Attachment(s)
As I mentioned, it merely says:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1529509245 but when I look up how to do that it says: http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1529509260 I mentioned purchasing a short pipe, a long pipe, and an elbow, and that the front of the car is in the way. The first time that I had a stuck fastener I looked into my garage for something I could use for leverage and saw the yellow four-foot handle for my Napa floor jack. I will just dig a hole so I can use it. Digging is free! |
Buy the 12' pipe, be VERY nice to it, leaving stickers on and such, and then return it. Some people will hate me saying that but if u do no harm to it, and they are willing to take it back, and u return it right away... I am fine with the ethics. Lowes is a giant corporation and u need help and will do no harm. My two cents.
|
2 Attachment(s)
The wrenches were able to move in too many axes:http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1529561210
The Harbor Freight impact socket held. The crankshaft removal tool did not. The top one is the $69 Napa rental: http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1529561177 According to the instructions, I need to remove a bolt, slide a pulley, and remove the belts, but the videos show far more steps. I drove my Civic five miles, she drove rougher and rougher, gave me a check engine light for air-fuel sensor 1, and then she started overheating. I drove Mom's car to my other client and then to the car wash. The ignition locked. I could not turn the key or shift. I chipped a tooth on perogies. How?! |
Quote:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HhXnVRX-h_o |
I guess, but I was really thinking about this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkrYOy18evY
It seems like every couple of steps the instructions are unclear and I need to clean up and go back to YouTube and Google. I specifically mentioned having difficulty with diagrams. Well, the bolt that it told me to extract wasn't there. I removed the timing and balancer belts. Step 3 of reassembly is "Set the crankshaft to TDC." With my mind? I don't have a sonic screwdriver! The YouTube mechanics put the gear back on, rotated the crankshaft, and then removed the sprocket. I don't know words and stuff. When I took off the pulley it rotated the crankshaft. I ended up using an old belt and locking pliers. Why do I always need to be the smart one?! I was not able to work on it after work, but I do not have clients tomorrow, and, despite it taking me four days to get this far, I am confident that I can finally have her up and running tomorrow. Then, on top of endless other projects, I need to figure out what is wrong with my Civic. |
I finally got to step three of reinstalling the timing belt last night because I went out after dark. All that I have done today is update my missions and work on my car.
I am still on step three. A family from Church is moving right now and I planned on helping them all week, but I have seventy-six more steps! |
It seems like everyone will tell you how to replace your timing belt and water pump, but as common as timing belt and gasket kits are, I cannot find any instructions for replacing all of them. It seems like some are vastly easier to remove before you take off the timing belt. I tapped in one seal with my biggest socket, but the shaft was too deep for the last one, and it did not tap in like some of the others, but it seemed like the only thing holding it in was friction.
It sure was challenging to remove the old one. Then I ripped the replacement. O'Reilly's showed one at their store, but when I went in the guy said they did not stock them. I printed off the page and came back. They got it for me, but did not stock the gasket for the upper and lower timing belt covers. They just look like weatherstripping. I looked on-line and could not find anything. I brought in the upper cover and said "I cannot find this on-line anywhere except the dealer, but the nearest Honda showroom is hours away. Do you have anything that can work?" "What kind of car do you have?" [.....] "We do not carry that." I was glad we could establish what I told them in the first place. The guy had no idea how to help. I suggested different things. We looked at their weatherstripping, but everything was too wide, and probably not suited for contact with the engine. I asked about Permatex. "No, that will not work." I went across the street to Autozone and said the same thing." "What kind of car do you have?" [.....] "Permatex will work." Unfortunately, that was the wrong seal, and nobody around here carried the right one. Either they did not say when it would arrive, or it would take until Wednesday, if not sometime next month. I ordered a Mahle seal from O'Reilly's. The picture shows the exact Nok seal that I ruined as I removed it from the engine (and the exact Nok seal that I ruined attempting to install). I tried every option I could think of before calling O'Reilly's. It was painful, but as long as I get the right seal... When I bought the wrong one I bought a 1½" deep socket, which I will exchange for something appropriate for the smaller seal. It will be here Tuesday morning. I am not happy about putting Permatex on the cover, it just seems better suited for the joint between two pieces of metal, not metal and plastic, but it should not matter. I guess that I will tend to other projects on Monday and hopefully finish on Tuesday. I only have one client that day, although I am currently seeing eleven, with two more pending, and they are three more on the way. That does not sound like much, but if I see thirteen kids a week (with fifty-minute sessions), I will bring home as much as I did working full-time at a school--before taxes, etc. |
Hang in there!
|
Thanks. It just frustrates me that I cannot work on it Monday.
|
Quote:
|
Do you think I can replace the head gasket on my Civic in one day?! :D
|
Sorry to jump threads, but I do not want to derail yours. I am not sure what to do with my Civic, I keep looking for one I could afford, a D16y5 engine, etc. I would love to rebuild, or even better, have someone remanufacture, but money always seems to be something that I lack. Right now I just want to be able to get to and from work without borrowing Mom's car. When I researched redoing the head gasket on my Forester everyone said to use Fel-Pro, but Subaru proved it could not be trusted.
Majestic will ship me the head gasket for $45.02 and it may arrive as soon as July 5th. However, if I waste an entire cent on upgraded shipping, it could arrive as early as the third! :D I can order a Fel-Pro gasket from the friendly neighborhood O'Reilly's for $39.99 or the full kit for $127. Autozone has the same kit for $129, but Napa has a 10% off everything sale and "only" asks $114 for the same part number. Rockauto and Amazon both have it for $93, but Amazon says it would deliver by Tuesday. Rockauto would probably take another week. Is Fel-Pro as good as Honda? Probably not, but I also do not know how long it will be before I lose enough compression to be a problem, and the Fel-Pro gasket will not be important when I rebuild, remanufacture, replace, or purchase another car. |
Makes sense. You might buy the Honda head gasket at Tempe Honda, if that is close enough to where you are in Mesa. I bought mine in person at a dealership. It was their last in stock, they said. My O'Reilley had the other two gaskets on hand. Get lucky and you might get started Tuesday or Wednesday.
|
Quote:
|
I think that I spent longer than three days removing a nut connecting exhaust pipes on my Civic four years ago. The exhaust shield prevented me from accessing it with locking pliers and other tools that should have made short work of it, but that was before I learned of bolt extractors.
I saw one whole client today, picked up the seal, which looked just like the one that I ruined pulling off my engine and the one that I ruined attempting to install on my engine. The packaging says Mahle, but the seal itself says NOK, just like the other two. I installed the seal and the timing belt. I want to count how many times it says to temporarily install the crankshaft as well as loosening the adjusting bolt 2/3 - 1 turn, do some thing, then retighten it. The YouTube mechanics say to remove the 10mm bolt from the adjuster arm to the timing belt tension arm. The FSM says to use a bolt from the timing belt cover. I do not know why I removed the 14mm nut from the tensioner, except that I replaced the tensioner. Somehow I thought it meant the 10mm bolt I put on the tension arm, not the nut on the tensioner. I wish that I had realized that since I needed the camshaft removal tool to remove the camshaft, I also needed it to replace it (multiple times). It was hours before I was able to rent one from AutoZone. I did things wrong, then needed to do them right, but the timing belt is on, lined up properly, and as tense as it seems it is going to get. Crank it counter-clockwise 5 - 6 times to make sure the belt is seated, remove the crankshaft pulley, adjust the adjusting bolt, reinstall the crankshaft pulley, move it three teeth counterclockwise to tension it, remove the pulley, and adjust the bolt. Fun. The tensioner belt is on. Remaining steps: 1. Replace the seal on the lower timing belt cover. 2. Replace the lower timing belt cover. 3. Replace the crankshaft. 4. Replace the dipstick and gasket. 5. Replace the alternator bracket, alternator, and belt. 6. Replace the power steering pump and belt. 7. Replace the battery. I am also replacing the spark plugs and wires, changing the oil, and rotating the tires. I should probably replace the coolant before I start the engine. Why isn't that in the instructions?! |
I am sure you meant "replace the crankshaft pulley," not "replace the crankshaft." But if you are replacing the crankshaft, I recommend the pulley too. ;)
Hang in there! |
It has been nine days and I am not much further than my last update. I thought I could use Permatex to replace the timing belt cover gasket and I probably could have, as long as I let it dry first, but I tried to reinstall it, and it smeared all over. Everyone sells covers with the seal for $50 - 100. Advanced Auto is the only any aftermarket replacement I could find by itself, but I would need to order it, it is not carried in stores, and they charge as much as Honda does.
Where is the advantage of using aftermarket parts? I just thought to check Pep Boys, although they do not have a parts store anywhere near here. Allegedly they have the seal for $6, but Amazon says it does not fit. For six dollars I would risk it, but not if I need to order it. Rockauto has an Aisin seal kit with the other seals that I replaced and this one for $21, but I would probably need to wait longer for spare parts. Monday was my brother's birthday. Mother was not planning on doing much because none of us had much money, although I still had some savings, but a maxed out credit card. I am not arguing that taking my brother to a water park with the last of my resources was the prudent decision, but I was paid a couple of days later. My sister moved from Oregon the same day, so we were able to see them as soon as they were in-town, for the first time since October, but my sister was not able to take over my brother's birthday party, like she did two years ago. Is it too difficult to ask that someone's birthday be about them? For my birthday my sister bought my brother-in-law's favorite cake, served my nephew first, and chose the movie we watched. I was able to get the seal, but it seemed like a $3, not a $30 part. I also made it to Sully's Barbershop in Mesa before 8am, where they cut my hair and trimmed my beard for $11. I thought the guy did a good job, he just did not do the job I wanted. Summers in Show Low are in the 80s and a hundred thousand people drive up here for holidays, but it was too dry for fireworks, which was disappointing, because we have a great view from the driveway. I double-checked the timing belt, it was off a tooth, so I took it off, but it started raining before I could reinstall it. I did not get very far the next day before it started raining. I installed the timing belt correctly, the balancer belt, lower cover, and crankshaft pulley. Today I realized that I should have ordered a valve cover gasket, so I picked up a Fel-Pro kit. I kept finding people saying the spark plug gaskets just popped out, but K.K reviewed it on Amazon and wrote "After 15 years and 220K miles the old gasket got cooked into the groove, hardened, and refused to come off. Please be careful and don't pry it with sharpened tools. You need the valve cover edge to be smooth to contain the oil in the crank case. I used carburetor cleaner to soften the hardened rubber." Carburetor cleaner helped, but you still need a plastic pry tool. You are supposed to use a small flathead screwdriver to stretch the grommets over the ends of the bolts, but my old grommets would not go quietly into the night, and I did not have an easy time with the new ones. I used wire clippers to remove the old ones and a hammer and deep socket to install the new ones, but that tried to roll the grommets inside-out, and possibly damaged the inside. I do not know what difference it makes when installed, but I used Honda Bond, and next time I will use the small screwdriver. I installed new spark plugs and wires and realized that one of the spark plug gaskets got pinched in the hole. I loosened it, worked the gasket into place, and wondered if I made things worse or what. I need to watch that area, I may have one or more leaks. I installed the new hoses, but did not fasten one of the clamps. I worked for a while under a picnic umbrella in a thunderstorm. It was just a difficult day to turn wrenches. If I cannot finish by the time I see my clients Monday at 10 I will be on my fourth week replacing my timing belt. I hope that everyone is doing well! |
This guy also cuts off the old grommets and uses a hammer and socket to force in the new ones, but he lubricates it, and uses a larger socket than I did:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4S8L7IJPZCc |
Quote:
|
I finally finished replacing my timing belt Monday afternoon. I had about half an hour before my one client and then I spent about eight hours finishing everything. I also changed the oil and rotated the wheels. I pulled the OBD-II connector loose and I am not sure how to fix that. There are two-foot extension cables on Amazon for ten or eleven dollars, but I would want to mount it, and I did not see anything like that, but people have been mounting cables for decades. There must be a solution.
The seals that I replaced should only reduce oil leaks, which has not seemed like a problem, although I cleaned a great deal of sludge from the top of the engine bay. I kind of want to clean it from the bottom, although I am not sure what that would accomplish. Perhaps oil is seeping out, but getting dirty enough to never drip? Cleaning it would help me track that as long as I check soon enough. There is not any reason to believe that my engine would burn less oil or that an acid wash would keep a CEL away for more than 5,000 miles--if that long, but I still feel that I should. Every Honda dealership that I checked ten and a half months ago is charging at least $100 more now and some ask several hundred more. They must not expect much business. I will probably purchase an aftermarket cat once I wash mine and the CEL returns. I am trying to think of what else I want to do with my Accord, although the dented roof continues to bother me, I just do not know how to properly fix it. Also, I managed to back into a fence post the other day, now I have a nice scrape in the rear bumper. I am not sure that anything on the Accord is as important as replacing the head gasket on my Civic. I have wanted to report back, but I needed to write progress reports on Tuesday, an incident report on Wednesday and make changes on some progress reports, saw six clients on Thursday and drove down to the valley to dog sit. Apparently my sister has a landscaper. They let out the three dogs and it took a while to chase them down. My sister had quite a number of critical things to say like "You knew the landscapers were coming! Why did you let out the dogs!" No part of that statement was correct. Then my phone died and my sister freaked out because I obviously blocked her as she tried to have me hide dead bodies or whatever because the landlord was coming. It was a crazy day. Then my sister and her husband drove the second and final moving truck from Oregon and my niece and nephews returned from wherever. Everybody got on devices but the dogs. The dogs looked very bored. Then I ran to Kohl's and bought an XXXL slim fit shirt, $80 pants, and the rest of the clothing that I needed for a date. I left my date clothes in Show Low. The cashier refused to stop trying to get me to sign up for different Kohl's "services." Just think how much money I could save by signing up for everything! Think of how much more money I will instead save by not purchasing things I do not need. Summary: I replaced my timing belt on Monday and my very part-time job kept me unusually busy. The landscapers let out the dogs, my sister is mean, I left my date clothes back home and never intend to return to Kohl's. My dinner date went well, though. I will drive 170 miles each way August fourth to see her again. |
Congrats on the completed work. It might mean you can make that 170 mile each way dinner date!
Question... why do you think cleaning the CAT will result in the return of the CEL within 5000 miles or less? If the engine is running normally, I would expect quite a lot better longevity than that. |
Before I pulled out the plug the CEL turned on every 50 - 100 miles. I always checked and cleared it immediately so that I knew if any other problems arose.
|
I replaced my timing belt, valve cover seals, and various other components 13.5 months ago and today I had multiple misfires. I had noticed an occasional misfire for at least a day or two, but I did not have a check engine light, and I was just worried about driving to and from my two jobs, and seemingly sleeping twice as much as until a week and a half ago.
I was driving from the school to my clients' house and the misfires got worse. I just wanted to make it to their house, but kind of think the goal was to make it back home afterward. However, they continued getting worse, and I pulled over and asked to reschedule when I got a CEL. I plugged in my dongle, started Torque Pro, and drove straight to the only mechanic that I trust, and he told me to check the spark plugs on the cylinders having trouble. I do not have a shop fan, so I plugged in a battery tender, switched on my AC, and turned the key--without starting the engine. Once the engine was cool I pulled the plugs and those two were covered with oil. I checked #3 just to be safe and it looked great. That was with my bluetooth dongle and Torque Pro, but I also used my code reader from Harbor Freight. It also had four errors, but it showed misfires on 1, 2, and 4, and gave a code for random misfires. #4 is also covered with oil. Oddly, the #3 tube seal is clearly damaged, but seems to be holding. I cannot imagine fixing this before I need to be at work tomorrow and I need to get to two jobs! |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:41 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com