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Info about kill switch?
I was reading the ecomodder wiki and I saw the thing about the kill switch. I thought it was very cool and wanted to install one in my future metro (if I get one). However, in the cons I read
-Battery will run out from heavy use. Drive without power-consuming headlights, or install LEDs. Or alternatively, dont use the switch that much. How often could I use this mod without draining the car battery too much? I want to know how often people who have this mod use it. |
An hyperlink into the Wiki might be appropriate.
I can only speculate from you question that it's an active alternator delete. Everything I've seen lately is about new cars will have a remote kill switch that is under the control of some power structure somewhere. |
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No free lunches, only tradeoffs. Personally, I'm more interested in a virtual alternator delete, with smarts to turn on the alternator when voltage drops below some threshold. |
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No power draw. No battery capacity.
No Wiki link. No pressure though. :) |
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I found the stats of this battery for the 1997 metro 8.75L x 6.75W x 8H 525 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) Weight: 29.5 lbs Chemistry: Lead Acid Voltage: 12 https://www.batterygiant.com/auto-ca...4+1.3L++/VL26R Forgive me, I don't have too much mechanical knowledge. |
I had an engine kill switch on my 06 Canyon. It definitely helped me to get the gas mileage that I was getting. I had some battery problems, and found that it was necessary to put a battery charger on the battery about once per week. The battery charging system is designed to keep the battery properly charged when the alternator is running full time. Part time charging, as with an engine kill switch, will eventually kill the battery. I learned this the hard way.
The kill switch installation is discussed in my 06 Canyon modding thread: https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...yon-17070.html. Pay careful attention to the need for fuses in the wiring. |
You would probably want a deep cycle battery if you add a kill switch.
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The 4 cylinders don't really pull much on starting. I would shut my civic off at stop lights and crank it back up all the time, and just bump start it on pulse and glides in town. So quarter clutch out till it cranks then push all the way back in and rev match up to like 2000 and put it back into gear.
But cranking the ranger it will kill the battery within like 3-4 cranks. The klr is the same way yet I can crank my cb750 a million times and the battery keeps going. If you're gonna be doing it just get a volt gauge put in, and probably a deep cycle agm battery. |
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/16483989099...2cab7bb4b69e94 |
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